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Have you done this to your trigger? Seems odd to me from a mechanical standpoint. Did it make it lighter or what? I already put a timney in mine so it doesn’t matter but I was just curious how removing the whole spring changed the factory trigger. I’ve clipped and replaced springs before but never just taken the whole thing out.
I am returning to long range shooting after a 4 or 5 year hiatus, and fully had plans to build a Rem 700... and then I run across the Ruger Precision Rifle, and I gotta say that I am in a whirlwind of playing catch up. Analysis Paralysis is what I have here. Definitely torn, I can do a lot with an R700, but that RPR seems to be my quick fix for a fast return to the sport... all this to say I am following and researching my options; great thread!
That’s what it was designed to be without spending 3 or 4 grand. Try it. You’ll love it!
And the best part is it can be a full custom gun when it’s done if you wanted to take it that far. Lots of Smith’s doing barrels. Pick the stock, grip, forend, triggers are slowly coming, threaded bolt handle for whatever tickles your fancy. I see LRI is doing bushed firing pins now as well as all their bolt shroud and other cool tools and stuff.
I'm somewhat in the same boat. I didn't take the time off, but it's time to rebarrel, and I'm considering getting two 700's customized, or rebarreling my RPR and buying a 556 to go with it.
Yes, I've done this to my trigger. I wanted to preserve the spring and not cut a piece off to lighten the pull. Tried using a lighter spring (one out of a ball point pen) and it worked well enough, but didn't quite get the pull I was looking for. So, I simply removed the spring leaving the adjusting screw in. I did some bump testing to see if sear would let loose, but I couldn't get it to. The trigger blade works really well as a safety, as the trigger can't be pulled until that blade is all the way back. I really like the light crisp break I get with the trigger. Well, I've got over 2,100 rounds fired with it this way and it's been working great for me with a pull that runs 12-14 oz.
(should have proof read this better and had to make corrections now as to what I was saying; it was late lol)
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If one plans on doing a bunch of modifications to the RPR once obtained, I'd say it better to just go with a more custom job with a 700. It's really about how one like to float their boat. Except for modifying the trigger a little and fire lapping the barrel, I'm really happy with my stock RPR and have been able to get my groups consistently below 1/2 MOA with hand loads and getting enough groups close to 1/4 MOA to really feel good about the factory barrel. Now, after 2,100 rounds, I'm considering a custom pre-fit barrel to see if I might be able to shoot consistently at 1/4 MOA with this RPR. It's been a great $1,100 gun for me.
A dilemma that I find myself faced with is whether or not to go 308 or 6.5C. I have a number of components to start reloading for 308 like; LC match cases, CCI primers and various powders, but I have nothing for the 6.5C.
I would like to shoot 100 - 500yds starting out, but as my confidence builds, I would like to stretch out a bit further. In this instance it would make sense to cut my 308 losses and start out in 6.5C... I do not have the funding to train in both calibers at this time...
I would like to shoot 100 - 500yds starting out, but as my confidence builds, I would like to stretch out a bit further. In this instance it would make sense to cut my 308 losses and start out in 6.5C... I do not have the funding to train in both calibers at this time...
^ Thats true. In addition, I went with the .308 because I only have 1000 yards available to me and don’t really plan on shooting beyond that. So the .308 more than suits my needs. If you plan on stretching it farther, you could go with the 6.5 CM off the bat, or just get a 6.5 CM barrel later. The .308 barrel will also last longer, another reason I went that way, so you can stick with that until you’re ready to make the move to 6.5 CM and shoot at 1000+. So you have a few different ways to go about it, and just think of which one works best for you. You really need to know what you’re doing to shoot beyond 600 with a 5.56 accurately IMO. So if you plan on shooting long range a lot, I’d rule that out.
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I would agree with Lefty. I have a 6.5 and a 5.56 RPR. The 556 I use in Fl to shoot at shorter distances and the 6.5 I take with me when I visit my son in Co. This gives me the ability to shoot smaller at shorter and transfer that to the 6.5 when I get west. It works for me. I know this won't work if u are only able to get one rifle. I would go with the suggestion to rebarrel in 6.5 when/if you move to longer distances.
That is info I had not run across yet; I did not realize that the calibers shared the same bolt. Thank you for the gem!
These are good ideas; getting the 308 first, then re-barrel later with 6.5C. The more I learn about this rifle, the more I know it is the right way to go. I have looked at the 223 model, since it is on sale, and I have reload components for this caliber as well, but I am having commitment issues as I just do not have enough experience with the smaller caliber.
I do wish I could afford both, the 223 would make for a nice practice caliber, not to mention a fun caliber. A bolt and barrel change (maybe magazines too) and I could maybe swap down... Probably more trouble that it is worth.
That’s good to know. I’m happy with the timney I put in but now I’m thinking I could’ve saved the money. Oh well.
Tempting, 6mm Creedmore for $799 at Grabagun: https://grabagun.com/ruger-72.html
Never mind... I did not realize that 6mm Creedmoor and 6.5 Creedmoor were different calibers. I assumed that the 6mm was an abbreviated reference to 6.5. Much to learn...
Never mind... I did not realize that 6mm Creedmoor and 6.5 Creedmoor were different calibers. I assumed that the 6mm was an abbreviated reference to 6.5. Much to learn...
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Question on ring height. I have a US Optics B 17 inbound for my 308 RPR. Anyone running one of these? If so, what height rings are you using? Thanks.
If I remember correctly, the B17 has a 50mm objective? If so, I'm running an ADM Recon 20MOA STD and have about 1/8" clearance with the caps on my scope.
Assuming it is the same as the 6.5 Creed--it would be 5/8"-24 thread. Looking from the front of the gun it comes off counter clockwise. The nut behind it is a locking nut -so best to hold this and put clockwise pressure on the nut as you turn the brake counter clockwise.
What he said. Just took mine off today and put a brake on for my can. Get a wrench on the nut and turn it clockwise, I used a big screw driver through the brake to get them to break apart.
Question for you guys. Second range trip with my 6.5 RPR. After 10 rounds the bolt shroud deal came off. Put it back and 10 rounds later its off again. Is there a fix for this thing? Does the titanium one I see online work better?
FWIW I shot some Hornady American gunner 140 HPBT 2633 ft/sec avg with a 13.7 SD. Not too bad IMHO considering the price point of the ammo. 10 shots recorded on a magneeto speed.
FWIW I shot some Hornady American gunner 140 HPBT 2633 ft/sec avg with a 13.7 SD. Not too bad IMHO considering the price point of the ammo. 10 shots recorded on a magneeto speed.
That's pretty unusual. Ruger did have an issue with their bolt shrouds (think it had to do with some kind of interference with the firing pin) and offered free replacements. You might check their website and see if you serial number falls under those regarding this. If it does, they'll send you a new updated one for free. If you're is plastic, the replacement one they send out is metal.
My SN does not fall into any recalls I can find on their website. Nothing came back in their SN check either.
Give them a call. After you've explained what's happening, I'd bet they simply send you a new shroud. ]
The recall was due to the fact that it would cause the firing pin to thread back with each cycle of the bolt to the point where it wouldn’t even fire anymore. Usually after about 100 rounds. The shroud actually coming off is a new one to me. Something inside probably not machined right. Personally I’d leave that rifle alone and call Ruger
My trigger fully adjusted to minimum pull weight was averaging 1 lb 10.oz. Removed the spring and now consistently at 1 lb. but with a little more creep than stock. I have not been to the range and will shoot it a while and decide if my accuracy improves. If not it will be simple to return to stock. Only about 200 rounds thru the gun, I have several four shot groups that are dime size with always a fifth that opened up to a quarter.
Is there a mod to remove the trigger blade as I don't care for the feel and not cause an unsafe gun?
This past Saturday I got to finally get my 6.5 out to my land and do some steel ringing. Went from zeroing that morning and by the afternoon it was ringing steel at 1050 yards. Shooting Prime 130s. First time to shoot this distance and I’m hooked! Love it!
it doesnt matter. the only difference is the handguard and to some extentthe bolt shroud. its almost 100% the Gen 2. if you really want the gen 2 handguard, i have one ill sell cheap.
My RPR after dialing out to 1000yd with 25-30rd hot barrel I returned to zero to check Weaver and the gun. It was gusty 12-25mph. I’m so impressed with this combo!!
I don’t use snakes. I only use rods and I run a brush with a tiny bit of carbon solvent after every session followed by patches until clean. Then a patch with just tiny drop of oil. I rarely do a deeepp clean and I take the bolt apart and clean as necessary.
Likewise, I don't use snakes and only use a rod with a rod guide. Since I shoot at least once a week firing from 40 to 50 rounds, I don't clean the barrel and chamber until about 200 rounds or so and don't do deep cleaning until I see my groups opening up.
^ Same here. I shoot about the same amount as you. I only use a rod with guide along with my action cleaning kit about every 200 rounds
