I guess I go against the grain. I’ll pull a snake through if i shoot a lot and am not going to clean right away.
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I don’t really clean much. I ran a rod through when I first got the rifle but don’t plan on it anytime soon unless I see groups opening up. I was on the fence on what to do until I listened to Frank on the everyday sniper podcast. In episode 13 he talks about cleaning and breaking in a barrel. I gotta say it makes sense on what he says.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-sniper-episode-13-cleaning-break-in.6871260/
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-sniper-episode-13-cleaning-break-in.6871260/
There are several different preferences. As long as your rifle is kept accurate and safe to operate, I don’t think it really matters much
It seems to be the case. I heard very experienced shooters say they go much longer than we before doing any cleaning. I suppose too the environment one operates the gun in can be a big factor.
^ Ive found that as well. Even when reading about cleaning methods specifically for precision and long range rifles. I’ve also read that the action/chamber gets dirtier and should actually be cleaned more frequently than the bore, when in fact most people do it the other way around.
Can you school me on how to remove debris from the muzzle with a boresnake.
Fastest Smith in long range. Walk in on a Saturday morning with an action and walk out in a couple hours with a trued barreled action. Only guy I know who does it. Call him anytime.
Received my LRI bolt shroud and handle today. I have a gen 2 rifle but the factory alum shroud is crazy loose. The LRI fits WAY better. Bolt handle is a nice touch too.
Side note on the shroud. Tightened the tolerances up enough in the bolt to actually feel stages of creep and grit in the sear and cocking peice Lol. I might try to clean it up but will probably just order a timney. I’m sure everyone knows it already but ?? For LRI
Side note on the shroud. Tightened the tolerances up enough in the bolt to actually feel stages of creep and grit in the sear and cocking peice Lol. I might try to clean it up but will probably just order a timney. I’m sure everyone knows it already but ?? For LRI
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From LRI? I would think so. They claim your barrel goes on the bench within 24 hrs of order. Call and ask if you have questions but it shouldn’t be long at all.
For those that have factory 6.5 barrels and are shooting 140 ELD-M's, what MV's are you getting at around 40 degrees?
Not to hijack Dillhole’s question but I’d like to know the same for Prime 130s. When I broke in my rifle a week ago I was getting 2900 and within the first box of Prime ammo I had a primer pop out and also was seeing light ejector rings on the brass. Any suggestions?
id call prime and tell them what you saw. see if they can set u up with abox from a diffeent lot and see if it repeats. Prime is good stuff and ive never had an issue with it.
I did exactly that. Sent them an email with the lot number and within 6 hours the owner called me. I was very impressed. He sent me a new box at no cost but I haven’t had a chance to go shoot yet. I hear only good things about Prime so I thought my situation was weird.
^ I find temperature actually does have the biggest impact as far as ballistics for me and my little 20” barrel. I can get away with much lighter bullets in the summer
only 2 things affect MV in a significant way with a given same load.......for the most part (there are other variables). Temp and barrel length.
Handloads yes; Havent shot factory under 60, but another guy's rpr was running that at my last match it was 30-35 that day
The coldest I’ve shot in is about 10 degrees with handloads using varget at 100 and 600. Never shot in those conditions with any factory ammo
I have a question for everyone with reloading experience with the rpr in 308. I have been reloading for a little over a year and have only been shooting for a few years now so I am still learning a lot. I am loading 168 gr hornady bthp and amax bullets over 41 and 42 gr varget. Some 175 gr SMKs over varget as well. When I full length size my once fired cases originally the outside of the neck was .331" to .333", now that I have fired them with the rpr they measure .342" to .344", so I'm curious if that's what other guys are seeing. I have noticed since the gun was new that the outside of the neck has a lot of black soot around it all the way down to the shoulder, doesnt matter if its factory ammo or handloads. I have an LR-308 that i have reloaded for as well and the black soot isnt on the outside of the neck and the cases dont take as much force to resize. I dont have any cases that i havent cleaned and resized from that gun right now to check, i will after the weekend. Thanks for any help and it is all very much appreciated.
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I use H4350 powder and have found my node at 2750fps. I don't even get 10fps variation in MV from 40* to 65*. The last 2 years I ran the same load from winter to summer which was high 30's to over 110* and never changed my load. I did bump up .1 grain after 2000 rounds though. I update my Kestrel every time I break out the rifle and I almost never need to update my DOPE card.
I have pretty much the same experience with my RPR .308.
After Measuring factory FGMM 175 SMKs I get .335 - .336. Subtracting .308 from .336 gives me .028 and dividing that by 2 give me a neck thickness of .014. Now, some brass I've seen have neck thicknesses of .015 - .016. So, if you take .016 double it and the .308 diameter you'll get a loaded measurement of .340 leaving about .003 .004 clearance (according to our brass measurements of .342 - .344 after firing). That clearance seems to be reasonable, though not near as tight a clearance as one might find in a custom precision rifle.
From what I can tell, Federal brass seems to me in the middle road as fare as it's thickness goes. I've not yet ever used Hornady brass, but I have picked up some off the range and measured them and found that Hornady brass tends to be somewhat thin (not quite as thin as Winchester brass that I've measured). Thinner brass is going to leave more clearance.
So. . . if your cases were .333 (with bullet in place), that makes them about .003 less than what I see on FGMM's. Since FGMM's also leave soot on the neck it's no surprise that Hornady's would too given the chamber clearance in an RPR. I've used my Forster neck bump die where I had only necksized down 3/4 of the way (they say that helps with keeping the bullet in the proper alignment to the bore) and don't get as much soot blowback onto the neck as I normally do. Tighter chambers like one sees in custom precision rifle don't seem to have this issue, but I don't know.
Sad day on my hands. My rpr with 1600 rounds on it started opening up groups to 1 moa. I have a barrel ordered from pva, but it wont be here before the next match. Anyone have any sweet ideas to get this one to make it through the next one? I am going to try changing oal, but not super optimistic. I could re cut the muzzle in case of damge there, but im pretty sure its too much heat on the throat.
Yup; play with seating depths. Could even try another OCW test. What caliber?
Thank you for the reply straightshooter1, I'm glad to hear that is probably a normal thing for these rifles. I wish it was a little tighter but nothing's perfect, once I shoot enough I will get a new barrel and go from there. Thanks.
I find the same thing with mine. I use Nosler brass. It’s very accurate but on the thin side so it doesn’t last that long, but I’m happy with 1/2?moa consistent results loading 190 SMK’s over 42.5 gr varget
Might try switching to the 115 DTAC's. Know a couple people who got a bit more life from a tired barrel with them.
My FFL was not home at the time the UPS guy came by... now I have to wait till Monday. I had a SWFA SS 10-42 w/ the side focus a couple years ago, loved it. If I casnnot decide on the long term glass, the SS will get me on the range and serve me well.
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My setup Bergara B14HMR 6.5cm with Vortex Viper PST shooting my first match in April here I’m dry firing practicing
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I like the MAGPUL stocks, I have the GEN 2 on all 3 of my AR/LR rifles.
I will end up trashing the Ruger factory stock and putting on on the RPRs.
I am assuming one of those is the 5.56? The one with the Vortex on it?
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