Maggie’s The Welding and Metalworking Thread

[XP1K]

He's using TIG, not stick.

If still having a warping issue run a bead no longer than 2", move to another area and run another 2" bead.....keep moving around till it's done.
That way you won't concentrate heat too much in a single area.
You can also try turning up the shielding gas or using a larger nozzle.....can't hurt anyway.

Tig, out of all the welding processes, has the highest heat input per the amount of metal deposited. If it'll warp with stick, you can bet money it'll warp if you TIG it.

To the OP, if it's taking ten minutes to run a bead 24" long, you're running way cold and way slow. As a couple others have stated already, don't be afraid of that little round knob, heat is your friend. If your machine has the capacity, rack it back and let it eat.

Welding the part from both sides if possible will be your best bet to keep it straight. If you can only weld one side, clamping to a flat surface will help but it's still going to draw.

 

[doubloon]

bought a gizmo that works at taking all my high spots off a little faster.

Interesting, I would have written that off as a gimmick.

Does it actually seem to last anywhere near as long as they claim?

 

[LeftyJason]

Interesting, I would have written that off as a gimmick.

Does it actually seem to last anywhere near as long as they claim?

Don't know about that product but this vid goes through testing grinding discs. Very beginning is to help get clicks.


He also has this one which is more recent.

 

[ZiaHunter]

I found these to be handy in the shop if and when you need to grind a fillet weld. Also the Fireball squares are great for assembly and are a staple in my shop.

4-1/2" X 5/8"-11 T27 Curved Ceramic Flap Discs For Fillet Welds - 1 Piece

Product Specification Shipping Refund Product Specification 4-1/2" X 5/8"-11 T27 CURVED CERAMIC FLAP DISCS FOR FILLET WELDS - 1 PIECE 4-1/2" x 5/8"-11 T27 Curved Ceramic Flap Discs are manufactured using European ceramic cloth. The European material is superior due to its uniform particle size...

benchmarkabrasives.com

 

[n2ishun]

Tig, out of all the welding processes, has the highest heat input per the amount of metal deposited. If it'll warp with stick, you can bet money it'll warp if you TIG it.

Psst...

Here's a clue.
Stick does not have shielding (COOLING) gas being sprayed around the weld area.

Maybe that's why people use TIG for things like sheet metal fenders and (GASP!) they don't warp if done correctly.
Try that with a stick....or MIG....or hell, oxy-acetylene for that matter.

 

[ZiaHunter]

Tig has the advantage of making very clean welds on thin material but is certainly capable of warping any material. The newer inverter machines with pulse can significantly reduce the heat put into the weld while still forming a good puddle. I have tig welded .030 material using pulse without warping but also welded in steps. My Magic Wave has a feature whereby you can set the number of pulse cycles which is very useful for thin materials.

 

[Whiskey Tango Foxtrot]

Don't know about that product but this vid goes through testing grinding discs. Very beginning is to help get clicks.


He also has this one which is more recent.

After watching the second video I bought a set of the combiclick disc. Looks like a good system for what I do. Fuck 3M..

 

[TxWelder35]

Psst...

Here's a clue.
Stick does not have shielding (COOLING) gas being sprayed around the weld area.

Maybe that's why people use TIG for things like sheet metal fenders and (GASP!) they don't warp if done correctly.
Try that with a stick....or MIG....or hell, oxy-acetylene for that matter.

Lol.

It’s not even worth a response to correct you since you know everything.

 

[ZiaHunter]

Lol.

It’s not even worth a response to correct you since you know everything.

He is probably referring to the shielding gas with GMAW & GTAW, I see your point with the flux on stick rods provides the shielding.

 

[XP1K]

Psst...

Here's a clue.
Stick does not have shielding (COOLING) gas being sprayed around the weld area.

Maybe that's why people use TIG for things like sheet metal fenders and (GASP!) they don't warp if done correctly.
Try that with a stick....or MIG....or hell, oxy-acetylene for that matter.

Psst...

Here's another clue.
I weld every day for a living. Primarily tig. I think I have a decent grasp on doing it correctly. There's always room for improvement though.

And yes, there are tricks to every trade. And if done correctly, move around, spread the heat out, don't travel all one direction, it can be done.

Tig has the advantage of making very clean welds on thin material but is certainly capable of warping any material. The newer inverter machines with pulse can significantly reduce the heat put into the weld while still forming a good puddle. I have tig welded .030 material using pulse without warping but also welded in steps. My Magic Wave has a feature whereby you can set the number of pulse cycles which is very useful for thin materials.

Tig welded some .035" stainless one time. Set peak amperage at 30 or 35 I think. 1/16" tungsten. Worked pretty slick. Weld razor blades on edge the same way. I tried the razor blades without pulse and I couldn't do it. Machine is a dynasty 210.

 

[n2ishun]

I was a welder for a pharmaceutical plant for a few years.
Welded stainless every day and quite often aluminum, inconel, hardened tool steels for cutters (mostly O1 and M2)....even titanium at times.
Used a Lincoln Aspect and I NEVER warped a workpiece with a TIG, not once.
Not a fan of Lincoln welders but it's what they had and it worked just fine.

Now if you're trying to use a Harbor Freight (whatever those green ones are) 120V then I pity you.

If y'all are warping shit, go back to welding school because you missed a few classes.

 

[TxWelder35]

I was a welder for a pharmaceutical plant for a few years.
Welded stainless every day and quite often aluminum, inconel, hardened tool steels for cutters (mostly O1 and M2)....even titanium at times.
Used a Lincoln Aspect and I NEVER warped a workpiece with a TIG, not once.
Not a fan of Lincoln welders but it's what they had and it worked just fine.

Now if you're trying to use a Harbor Freight (whatever those green ones are) 120V then I pity you.

If y'all are warping shit, go back to welding school because you missed a few classes.

Like I said. No reason to correct you. You know everything.

 

[gigamortis]

Psst...

Here's another clue.
I weld every day for a living. Primarily tig. I think I have a decent grasp on doing it correctly. There's always room for improvement though.

And yes, there are tricks to every trade. And if done correctly, move around, spread the heat out, don't travel all one direction, it can be done.

Tig welded some .035" stainless one time. Set peak amperage at 30 or 35 I think. 1/16" tungsten. Worked pretty slick. Weld razor blades on edge the same way. I tried the razor blades without pulse and I couldn't do it. Machine is a dynasty 210.

I absolutely love my Dynasty 210. The pulse function of an inverter machine lets you accomplish things you couldn't easily do with steady state current. In the old days, you had to pump the foot pedal for such action.

 

[fpgt72]

Interesting, I would have written that off as a gimmick.

Does it actually seem to last anywhere near as long as they claim?

I thought it was going to be like an "as seen on TV" type deal. I bet I picked the thing up 3 times and put it back, went off to get whatever I was going to get and went back to look at it again. By that time the thought hit me, well idiot you keep looking at this stupid thing, it is not THAT expensive and you will always wonder about it so just buy the stupid thing and try it out.

I have used it on flat bits, both on the 63VW and some flat bits for my solar stuff. It was just not shaped right to do the floor pans when I welded them in, so I used a "regular" disc for that. On the inner quarter that is long and flat enough and it worked great. I actually had two grinders there, one with a regular disc and one with that new one. I went back and forth. And it is without a doubt faster.

Now I don't really "lean" into the discs, I would bet 5lbs of pressure, I smoked a grinder once really leaning into it so I just let them go and not "bog down" too much.

I would also say it seems more noisy, I think a LOT more noisy. My ears are totally shot, so loud noises don't bother me too much, but this thing got me to put muffs on.

It seems to be....cleaner....I guess I will say. After you know you have all that dust and stuff under where you are grinding, this just SEEMED to have less.

As to lasting, I have only used it for about 10-15 minutes, and that was on that one fender.....I told you I can't weld I grind. That would be metal on disc and it still looks good and is still taking material off. It really only hits weld, so it is hitting harder stuff.

At this point I would buy it again.

 

[ZiaHunter]

Flyfishing buddy wanted a pair of sliders for his sons 4Runner made with 11 ga 1.75" DOM tubing. Next step powder coating.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Always wanted to do a muzzle cap on a target muzzleloader. So rather than trust my freehand drilling, I set the barrel up in the mill. Installed a 90 degree head and got everything square.

Leveled and locked in a Vice with a Jack.

Then used a mandrel that I turned earlier to center the head on the bore. When the mandrel slid in I was aligned. I could then set my readouts to zero and use the mandrel to hold the muzzle cap in line with the bore.

Then started drilling through the cap and into the muzzle. After each hole I used another .125” drill as a temporary pin. All holes were .350 left right up down off bore center.

Drilling a hole above. Below is barrel with 1 pin in place, three holes drilled and one about to be.

Here all four “pins” are in place and mill is being used to drill a vertical hole that will block the front sight so you don’t shoot your muzzle cap off.

This is going to go on a percussion “chunk gun” target/frontier rifle I am working on. I’ll finish this machining tomorrow!

Cheers, Sirhr

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Finished….! The pins are german silver and stepped… pressed in. If I break or bend one, I can easily press out and put in a new one.

Flag is a piece of copper punched out of some sheet and soldered to a german silver pin. Press fit and a bit of epoxy.

Holds tight on its own.

After a bit of blue… looks lovely! Probably going to blue the rifle in the end.

So… there is how to make a false muzzle in a few easy steps!

Cheers, Sirhr

 

[fpgt72]

I really want to learn to do this stuff. I just don't have the room for big machines, so looking at the smaller versions.

I bet I have read and watched so many videos and read articles I am blue in the face.

I am still a ways from doing anything, I need my VW body and pan to be reunited first, but after that I will really start looking.

As I just don't have the room, or more likely don't want to devote that amount of room to this aspect of my "hobbies" I have been looking at machines along these lines.

I get a but of, good for what it is, and not as good as two machines. Ok, that is still a bit vague, how? Give me specifics. And that I can't get out of anyone.

This is what I am looking at. I could make a lathe and mill fit, but I just don't want to give up that much floor space if I don't "have" to.

 

[lariat]

I really want to learn to do this stuff. I just don't have the room for big machines, so looking at the smaller versions.

I bet I have read and watched so many videos and read articles I am blue in the face.

I am still a ways from doing anything, I need my VW body and pan to be reunited first, but after that I will really start looking.

As I just don't have the room, or more likely don't want to devote that amount of room to this aspect of my "hobbies" I have been looking at machines along these lines.

I get a but of, good for what it is, and not as good as two machines. Ok, that is still a bit vague, how? Give me specifics. And that I can't get out of anyone.

This is what I am looking at. I could make a lathe and mill fit, but I just don't want to give up that much floor space if I don't "have" to.

View attachment 8276764

Something to think about: figure out the size and kind of work you want to do. Then find the machines available that have enough ass to do that, maybe a little over. That way you don't waste time or money. Also, some of these cheaper mill/lathe combos will have plastic gears which can be problematic.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

This was my first lathe. Fits in a very small space. 6” atlas. Does anything. 110v plugs in wall. Super easy to run. Now it is sort of designated for threading and polishing.

But $1000 should buy you a nice one. Tens of thousands of them made. This was ex-Navy. Every ship had a machine shop. This was PT Boat sized! On a battleship, they’d still have had several of them! And bigger lathes and mills.

Check Facebook marketplace. And Craigslist. But these are readily available.

I also have a Unimat but only use that for model stuff. It is very limited at one level. But very useful at another. You can buy a 6” atlas for less than a Unimat a lot of times.

Do NOT… no matter how tempting, buy ANYTHING made by Chicoms. Taiwan made
Good stuff for a long time. But now all the Asian non CNC stuff is made by filthy Chinese Commies. It is garbage!!!!

Sirhr

 

[ZiaHunter]

SBL Heavy 10 I picked up a few months ago. Made in 1973 and in good condition but has been sitting for many years and needs a complete tear down, cleaning and replace all felts. Came with full set of 5C collets, 3 and 4 jaw chucks all US made. The jaws on the chucks look like they were never used and in very good condition. The live center was jammed tore it apart replaced the bearing and like new. One of the bearings was dated 1952.

 

[Makinchips208]

I really want to learn to do this stuff. I just don't have the room for big machines, so looking at the smaller versions.

I bet I have read and watched so many videos and read articles I am blue in the face.

I am still a ways from doing anything, I need my VW body and pan to be reunited first, but after that I will really start looking.

As I just don't have the room, or more likely don't want to devote that amount of room to this aspect of my "hobbies" I have been looking at machines along these lines.

I get a but of, good for what it is, and not as good as two machines. Ok, that is still a bit vague, how? Give me specifics. And that I can't get out of anyone.

This is what I am looking at. I could make a lathe and mill fit, but I just don't want to give up that much floor space if I don't "have" to.

View attachment 8276764

I can’t imagine any scenario in which the grizzly would make me happy.
Key word, in their description, “small parts”. Also, that isn’t a milling head, that’s a drilling head, they can call it milling but milling things even half decent takes machine rigidity. That is putting wobbly thing on top of flimsy thing. You won’t be happy.

Do like the others suggested for a small “real” lathe. Then add a dewalt or Milwaukee cordless drill and you will have ten times the capabilities and capacity of the grizzly.

Edit: if you have a friend who has a friend who has a machine or two in a shop or garage, and if they would let you do things on it, that would be very cool and helpful.

 

[fpgt72]

This was my first lathe. Fits in a very small space. 6” atlas. Does anything. 110v plugs in wall. Super easy to run. Now it is sort of designated for threading and polishing.

View attachment 8276827

But $1000 should buy you a nice one. Tens of thousands of them made. This was ex-Navy. Every ship had a machine shop. This was PT Boat sized! On a battleship, they’d still have had several of them! And bigger lathes and mills.

Check Facebook marketplace. And Craigslist. But these are readily available.

I also have a Unimat but only use that for model stuff. It is very limited at one level. But very useful at another. You can buy a 6” atlas for less than a Unimat a lot of times.

Do NOT… no matter how tempting, buy ANYTHING made by Chicoms. Taiwan made
Good stuff for a long time. But now all the Asian non CNC stuff is made by filthy Chinese Commies. It is garbage!!!!

Sirhr

I have been looking and researching, that looks like Atlas, and from what I read they made the Craftsman lathes "back in the day". I came across a nice looking one, looked cared for had some tooling with it $800, but I was not fast enough.

I am hitting fakebook like crazy hoping to get lucky with an older machine. It seems like 99% of the old machines you can still get everything you need to make them work. You can "fix" them, as they got built in the day that you "fixed" things. I hope to get lucky, and like I said I have time.

There was also ?Cleveland? IIRC I missed out on that was pretty close to home. You need to be fast on the trigger with this stuff it seems.

Other folks will show you a machine in boxes, tell you grandpa took good care of it, put a pic of a PDF manual and say they want $2,500 for it, and they don't make them like this anymore.....no thanks, you can keep that.

 

[Hobo Hilton]

I have been looking and researching, that looks like Atlas, and from what I read they made the Craftsman lathes "back in the day". I came across a nice looking one, looked cared for had some tooling with it $800, but I was not fast enough.

I am hitting fakebook like crazy hoping to get lucky with an older machine. It seems like 99% of the old machines you can still get everything you need to make them work. You can "fix" them, as they got built in the day that you "fixed" things. I hope to get lucky, and like I said I have time.

There was also ?Cleveland? IIRC I missed out on that was pretty close to home. You need to be fast on the trigger with this stuff it seems.

Other folks will show you a machine in boxes, tell you grandpa took good care of it, put a pic of a PDF manual and say they want $2,500 for it, and they don't make them like this anymore.....no thanks, you can keep that.

Get away from Ebay and the people selling Grandpa's stuff. Deal with the largest, most reputable used machine tool businesses around. Those that won't screw you and have a reputation to keep up.
The reality is you are going to pay a fair price for a fair piece of equipment. Those guys are "in the business" and have giant warehouses chocked full of good, vintage equipment. They are regional so shop in your region. No they will not have a store front next to your local Walmart.
Pay the freight or "Bring a trailer" and haul it yourself.
Nothing is getting cheaper, including vintage stuff. It will cost you 20% more next year.

 

[frankxtc]

Yes on finding an old lathe locally!
40+ years ago, I bought a 1946 Logan.
Slowly acquired all the tooling and accessories
need to do all the projects I wanted to.
Mine is the most simple version, no gearbox.
I learned to cut threads the old fashioned way, swapping gears.

And most of the gears I needed were available on ebay, for reasonable $$$.
I had to buy a few, new, from Logan.

Logan Actuator Co. - Lathe Department

The AR Warner cutting tools are amazing, I get them from these guys:

Tooling, parts, and accessories for bench top machinists

The premier source of tooling, parts, and accessories for bench top machinists.

littlemachineshop.com

 

[fpgt72]

Get away from Ebay and the people selling Grandpa's stuff. Deal with the largest, most reputable used machine tool businesses around. Those that won't screw you and have a reputation to keep up.
The reality is you are going to pay a fair price for a fair piece of equipment. Those guys are "in the business" and have giant warehouses chocked full of good, vintage equipment. They are regional so shop in your region. No they will not have a store front next to your local Walmart.
Pay the freight or "Bring a trailer" and haul it yourself.
Nothing is getting cheaper, including vintage stuff. It will cost you 20% more next year.

I figured those places would have "big" machines, not little "hobby" type stuff. I will expand my search.

 

[n2ishun]

I have absolutely no idea if this machine is worth a shit or not...
Baileigh *used to* be American made and good stuff......I do not know if they are Chiwanistan or what these days.
Anyone know ?
Seems a decent price for a small unit.....which makes me wanna say Chiwanistani trash, but like I said....dunno ???

https://www.northerntool.com/products/baileigh-metalworking-lathe-model-pl-1022vs-v2-5717641

 

[Makinchips208]

I have absolutely no idea if this machine is worth a shit or not...
Baileigh *used to* be American made and good stuff......I do not know if they are Chiwanistan or what these days.
Anyone know ?
Seems a decent price for a small unit.....which makes me wanna say Chiwanistani trash, but like I said....dunno ???

https://www.northerntool.com/products/baileigh-metalworking-lathe-model-pl-1022vs-v2-5717641

China. Maybe tiawan, on some models. But most likely China.

 

[Hobo Hilton]

I figured those places would have "big" machines, not little "hobby" type stuff. I will expand my search.

In their terminology they call small stuff "Tool Room Lathe"... That was where things were repaired in giant manufacturing companies.


Another definition:
Most of this has already been said here but this is from wikipedia:

A toolroom lathe is a lathe optimized for toolroom work. It is essentially just a top-of-the-line center lathe, with all of the best optional features that may be omitted from less expensive models, such as a collet closer, taper attachment, and others. The bed of a toolroom lathe is generally wider than that of a standard centre lathe. There has also been an implication over the years of selective assembly and extra fitting, with every care taken in the building of a toolroom model to make it the smoothest-running, most-accurate version of the machine that can be built. However, within one brand, the quality difference between a regular model and its corresponding toolroom model depends on the builder and in some cases has been partly marketing psychology. For name-brand machine tool builders who made only high-quality tools, there wasn't necessarily any lack of quality in the base-model product for the "luxury model" to improve upon. In other cases, especially when comparing different brands, the quality differential between (1) an entry-level center lathe built to compete on price, and (2) a toolroom lathe meant to compete only on quality and not on price, can be objectively demonstrated by measuring TIR, vibration, etc. In any case, because of their fully ticked-off option list and (real or implied) higher quality, toolroom lathes are more expensive than entry-level center lathes.

 

[ZiaHunter]

Serial Number Card for my 10L. One of several shipped to Packard in 1974.

 

[fpgt72]

I have absolutely no idea if this machine is worth a shit or not...
Baileigh *used to* be American made and good stuff......I do not know if they are Chiwanistan or what these days.
Anyone know ?
Seems a decent price for a small unit.....which makes me wanna say Chiwanistani trash, but like I said....dunno ???

https://www.northerntool.com/products/baileigh-metalworking-lathe-model-pl-1022vs-v2-5717641

As I have researched the ever living hell out of this, I will give you what I THINK the deal is with these little machines.

You can cruise the internet for an hour and see machines of this size that all look the same. The just HAVE to be the same right, but why is one $800 and the other $3700. On the outside they look just alike, and they really do.

First off yes they are all made in china. Now before I get rolling I am not a China=bad where the things they make go. China makes things that are pure crap, and they make some darn good stuff. It all depends on what you want to pay for.

There is not much difference, and from what I can gather they all run out of the same complex in China. They are not all the same. Now clearly these are not apples to apples, as some have other features. If I was not so lazy I would find like to like models and they would look the same, but the prices would vary like crazy.

Like someone pointed out some have nylon gears, others steel. Some have (from what I understand) bearings that are not setup to take the loads that are done in a lathe, others have a bearing with a taper that can take the side loads better, and again more expensive. And the list goes on and on, steels used, motors used, circuit boards on and on.

What I came away with if you look at a "good" machine like the Griz or Jett it may look like the harbor freight but it is not, it will have those little unseen upgrades to it. Also different chuck types and things that I don't understand and can't quote off the top of my head.

My issue with getting something used is I have less then zero experience with this stuff. I know if I set it on a sand pile it will have an effect on parts I make, but if I get it setup the way it is to be, and the parts are still horrid, is that me, or something in the machine that is wore out that I have zero clue on where to even start looking.

This is why I was thinking new, yes anything made by man can be screwed up, but at least there will be some kind of support after the sale with the "good" companies, and I have zero issue paying for that even if I never pick up the phone once.

 

[Makinchips208]

I have an aluminum plate. It needs holes.

I have holes.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

A bit unusual… but cutting connecting rods next few days…

The old way of doing things….

Sirhr

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Serial Number Card for my 10L. One of several shipped to Packard in 1974.

View attachment 8277101




View attachment 8277102

I thought Packard Was Long gone in 1974..

Very cool!

Sirhr

 

[Makinchips208]

@sirhrmechanic that’s beautiful! I’m assuming that machine is made strictly for this purpose?

I love the old manual machines.

When I was 17 I got employed making carbide tipped cutting tools, so I was learning some of the manual grinders associated with that. And then at 18 I met a guy that rebuilt engines, nice gentleman that let me hang around his shop just for the fun of it. He had a large crank shaft grinder. Was super cool how he would offset the crank of a v8, get it all dialed in on a couple journals, grind them, then rotate the crank for a couple other journals, etc. not a fast process. But it was sweet.

The valve grinding was also neat.
If I didn’t get so intrenched in my line of work I really wanted to work for him building engines.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Serial Number Card for my 10L. One of several shipped to Packard in 1974.

View attachment 8277101




View attachment 8277102

So did a little digging and two possibilities come up... as Packard was gone by I think 58 or so. Was merged with Studebaker for a while, but George Romney killed the whole thing. Romney's suck.

Leaving a couple of possibilities for your lathe... one is Hewlett-Packard. Which still had plenty of 'machine stop' stuff going on in the 1970's. But more likely Packard Electric which was making electric motors and is still around, but belonged to a holding company. Was related to the Packard Motorcar Company. And also made stuff for Delco and went on to be part of Delphi, IIRC.
Really cool history on that 10R

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[sirhrmechanic]

@sirhrmechanic that’s beautiful! I’m assuming that machine is made strictly for this purpose?

I love the old manual machines.

When I was 17 I got employed making carbide tipped cutting tools, so I was learning some of the manual grinders associated with that. And then at 18 I met a guy that rebuilt engines, nice gentleman that let me hang around his shop just for the fun of it. He had a large crank shaft grinder. Was super cool how he would offset the crank of a v8, get it all dialed in on a couple journals, grind them, then rotate the crank for a couple other journals, etc. not a fast process. But it was sweet.

The valve grinding was also neat.
If I didn’t get so intrenched in my line of work I really wanted to work for him building engines.

Yeah, babbitt work is a lost art... and has this aura of black magic surrounding it. But it's just machining. All setup work.

Yes, that's called a rod machine. By the time it was built, it would mostly have been for prototyping. As babbitt was not commonly used on rods. They are rare as hell. All pneumatic and hydraulic. One of these days I need to strip it down and fix some air leaks. But it's dead nuts and so I hate to mess with it for some hissing!

Cheers!

Sirhr

 

[roostercogburn98]

Not mine, but these metal fish are hanging all over in The Lookout restaurant in the top of the bass pro shop Memphis, TN. Pretty neat stuff.

 

[ZiaHunter]

So did a little digging and two possibilities come up... as Packard was gone by I think 58 or so. Was merged with Studebaker for a while, but George Romney killed the whole thing. Romney's suck.

Leaving a couple of possibilities for your lathe... one is Hewlett-Packard. Which still had plenty of 'machine stop' stuff going on in the 1970's. But more likely Packard Electric which was making electric motors and is still around, but belonged to a holding company. Was related to the Packard Motorcar Company. And also made stuff for Delco and went on to be part of Delphi, IIRC.
Really cool history on that 10R

Cheers,

Sirhr

I would agree with your assumption it was probably Packard Electric. In the process of tearing it down. Tailstock tore down, cleaned, painted and re-assembled. Pulled the headstock and completely disassembled last night and in the process of cleaning which was a mess. Will re-paint and then tackle the saddle, apron and threading gearbox. The process is similar to peeling back an onion.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

I would agree with your assumption it was probably Packard Electric. In the process of tearing it down. Tailstock tore down, cleaned, painted and re-assembled. Pulled the headstock and completely disassembled last night and in the process of cleaning which was a mess. Will re-paint and then tackle the saddle, apron and threading gearbox. The process is similar to peeling back an onion.

I have a South Bend.... I think 8" Belt drive. Workhorse. Ex Navy. Rebuilt it once. Never again.

Redid my Monarch when I bought it and talk about a PITA to tear down. Took out all the tubes and three phase stuff and run it off a 5HP motor with an inverter. Monarchs are amazing. But a technical nightmare!

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[timesublime]

A bit unusual… but cutting connecting rods next few days…

View attachment 8289233View attachment 8289232

The old way of doing things….

Sirhr

Long stroke old tractor?

 

[Sean the Nailer]

I poured a fair bit of babbit during my apprenticeship, many years ago. Learned it from an 'old hand' right there. When everything is set-up properly, the process sure does go smoothly.

Temps matter.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Long stroke old tractor?

1930 Rolls Royce Phantom II

A bit tighter tolerances. But exactly the same process! Just under 8 L straight six.

Sirhr

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Two sets down and three to go….

 

[frankxtc]

I like the direct oiling of the gudgeon pin!

 

[sirhrmechanic]

 

[Makinchips208]

View attachment 8291006

Initially that seems impossible, but once you study it you realize that it is in fact, impossible.

 

[fpgt72]

I bought myself a new toy, but I have issues, I am leaky.

The welder that is.

I just had two fantastic weeks off, and part of that time I was working on my VW. Cutting old hole rusty metal out and replacing. What I had been using is an about 30 year old Lincoln 100. It worked good enough for a long time, but during this long weekend I started getting frustrated. The wire was just not feeding at what seems a consistent rate. Slow and I would chase the wire in, fast and I would find myself pulling away. Fiddling with the feed rollers gave me nothing. Finally in a fit of rage I said to hell with this and bought a new machine. I think the issue with the old machine is worn out feed rollers, I guess they do wear out. But why replace some little $50 parts and keep going when you can spend $2000 and get a new machine and have new fights right?

This was not an on the spot decision, I had been looking for a while, and just living with it and doing a LOT of grinding. The globs just getting worse and worse. I know I can't weld but I can't be THAT bad.

Researching the new machines, likely the last machine I will ever buy, ever notice how that thinking pushes you in a more expensive direction?

I had a few things on the list,

Mig
Gas ready
Name brand

Then the like to have
tig
stick
"Portable"

After looking at all the colors, Red, blue, yellow, yucky tan......I went with red.

I liked the screen and how you got to the different settings on this one over things like Miller, Hobart. I looked at them all. All are in the same basic price point for the same features. Not sure I will ever Tig weld, might stick weld, but I have one of those old tomb stone looking things that has not been on in 20 years. I just wanted it anyway. I had not used it even when it was the correct tool for the job, as getting it to the problem was too big a pain in the butt.

I took the old 100 apart (gas stuff off), hooked the gas bottle to the new hoses and such. Gave things a little snug and tested it. Works, and I guess this is how it is suppose to work. The wire just came out at a nice even speed and it actually looked like a little river of metal laying on top of the test surface, not the rocky mountains. Ok better. inside I go.

Crap did I leave the gas on, the tank is flat empty....yup, you dumb bunny. But you know with all the new stuff it can happen. Off to get a refilled bottle. Back at the shop I decide you know it might be smart to squirt some soapy water on this hose stuff.

Bubbles bubbles everywhere. Well crap. After getting everything tight and to stop leaking, some of it feeling just this side of too tight, no more bubbles.

I put a note on the board at the door to the shop with all the other notes.

Turn off water pump
Turn off water heater

TURN OFF THE GAS ON THE WELDER DUMB ASS.

And I spend the day welding away. Every time I step away for whatever reason I make a point to turn off the bottle. This leads to coming back out from under the car in full getup to turn the %$#@ gas back on. Ok I can live with that, the gas was like $70 for the refill and an hour+ drive. I will just do this.

I go back out yesterday, turn on the gas and start to finish up the one patch I am working on. What is going on the welds are looking all yucky. I listen close and pull the trigger on the gun....no gas. WTF did I forget to turn it on? Can't be it was working a min ago.

I go out and sure enough the bottle is on, but the gage is sitting on 0. What? Getting real mad now.

Unhook everything, have the bottle sitting there, give the cap a little turn and PSSSST. There is gas in there, sounded like it was under pressure, a bit of pressure. Usually I give it a quick little crack just incase there is some dirt or something in where you screw your stuff in. Sounded the same to me.

I left it there.

I have all the old stuff on the 100. I think I am going to haul it back out screw the old stuff on the bottle and see what it says. If it is empty, and it could be. The only thing left is a leak around the o-rings where the gun mounts to the welder itself, or the solenoid I guess.

I have never had to deal with any of this in the past, looking for some words of advice on going forward. I was thinking of trying to figure out a way to test with shop air, not sure if that is a good idea or not, I have a dryer(s), but not an oiler on the shop air.

 

[oneshot86]

I bought myself a new toy, but I have issues, I am leaky.

The welder that is.

I just had two fantastic weeks off, and part of that time I was working on my VW. Cutting old hole rusty metal out and replacing. What I had been using is an about 30 year old Lincoln 100. It worked good enough for a long time, but during this long weekend I started getting frustrated. The wire was just not feeding at what seems a consistent rate. Slow and I would chase the wire in, fast and I would find myself pulling away. Fiddling with the feed rollers gave me nothing. Finally in a fit of rage I said to hell with this and bought a new machine. I think the issue with the old machine is worn out feed rollers, I guess they do wear out. But why replace some little $50 parts and keep going when you can spend $2000 and get a new machine and have new fights right?

This was not an on the spot decision, I had been looking for a while, and just living with it and doing a LOT of grinding. The globs just getting worse and worse. I know I can't weld but I can't be THAT bad.

Researching the new machines, likely the last machine I will ever buy, ever notice how that thinking pushes you in a more expensive direction?

I had a few things on the list,

Mig
Gas ready
Name brand

Then the like to have
tig
stick
"Portable"

After looking at all the colors, Red, blue, yellow, yucky tan......I went with red.
View attachment 8293689

I liked the screen and how you got to the different settings on this one over things like Miller, Hobart. I looked at them all. All are in the same basic price point for the same features. Not sure I will ever Tig weld, might stick weld, but I have one of those old tomb stone looking things that has not been on in 20 years. I just wanted it anyway. I had not used it even when it was the correct tool for the job, as getting it to the problem was too big a pain in the butt.

I took the old 100 apart (gas stuff off), hooked the gas bottle to the new hoses and such. Gave things a little snug and tested it. Works, and I guess this is how it is suppose to work. The wire just came out at a nice even speed and it actually looked like a little river of metal laying on top of the test surface, not the rocky mountains. Ok better. inside I go.

Crap did I leave the gas on, the tank is flat empty....yup, you dumb bunny. But you know with all the new stuff it can happen. Off to get a refilled bottle. Back at the shop I decide you know it might be smart to squirt some soapy water on this hose stuff.

Bubbles bubbles everywhere. Well crap. After getting everything tight and to stop leaking, some of it feeling just this side of too tight, no more bubbles.

I put a note on the board at the door to the shop with all the other notes.

Turn off water pump
Turn off water heater

TURN OFF THE GAS ON THE WELDER DUMB ASS.

And I spend the day welding away. Every time I step away for whatever reason I make a point to turn off the bottle. This leads to coming back out from under the car in full getup to turn the %$#@ gas back on. Ok I can live with that, the gas was like $70 for the refill and an hour+ drive. I will just do this.

I go back out yesterday, turn on the gas and start to finish up the one patch I am working on. What is going on the welds are looking all yucky. I listen close and pull the trigger on the gun....no gas. WTF did I forget to turn it on? Can't be it was working a min ago.

I go out and sure enough the bottle is on, but the gage is sitting on 0. What? Getting real mad now.

Unhook everything, have the bottle sitting there, give the cap a little turn and PSSSST. There is gas in there, sounded like it was under pressure, a bit of pressure. Usually I give it a quick little crack just incase there is some dirt or something in where you screw your stuff in. Sounded the same to me.

I left it there.

I have all the old stuff on the 100. I think I am going to haul it back out screw the old stuff on the bottle and see what it says. If it is empty, and it could be. The only thing left is a leak around the o-rings where the gun mounts to the welder itself, or the solenoid I guess.

I have never had to deal with any of this in the past, looking for some words of advice on going forward. I was thinking of trying to figure out a way to test with shop air, not sure if that is a good idea or not, I have a dryer(s), but not an oiler on the shop air.

Do you have a flow meter or pressure gauge on the line side of the regulator.
Flowmeter will show very small amounts of gas usage.

On the welder, look in the compartment where the feed rollers are, look for the gas line that hooks to the solenoid, maybe leaking there.
There isn't a lot going on with the inert gas line, so you should be able to chase it down.

 

[fpgt72]

Do you have a flow meter or pressure gauge on the line side of the regulator.
Flowmeter will show very small amounts of gas usage.

On the welder, look in the compartment where the feed rollers are, look for the gas line that hooks to the solenoid, maybe leaking there.
There isn't a lot going on with the inert gas line, so you should be able to chase it down.

Just the gauge, or two, one showing pressure in the tank the other showing how much is flowing.

The gauge with the new welder just felt....off. It was real hard to turn the adjustment knob. I just passed it off as being new, but now I am wondering.

That gauge also shows no pressure in the tank, and clearly there is still pressure.

I will roll the bottle over there and hook it up to the old one. If it shows something that will tell me something, if it shows nothing it will tell me something as well, just a bit harder to deal with, and another 1hr plus drive to the tank place. Sucks.

This entire deal is making me want a bigger tank, but I don't want to do that until I am sure everything is cool, that is why I asked about shop air.