Restored, those things work great! Dismantle it, re-bush/bearing it... and it'll run when there is no power. Like after the apocalypse! Those units are awesome!
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Maggie’s The Welding and Metalworking Thread
- Thread starter bogeybrown
- Start date
Added the rest of the uprights and the tongue. The angled uprights over the tires will be where the fenders go. Tongue is 54” to tip of coupler so it’ll back well. I decided to double the amount of uprights from the original plan so the spacing at each end is a little weird but it all should be really stiff.
Next is the sides and floor.
Next is the sides and floor.
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It's metal and I'm going to work on it so figure it can go here. First venture into hit and miss engines - Hercules 3HP.
Building new target frames for our 1000 yard BR matches and needed something to get the off the floor when welding them together. Put these stands together on Thanksgiving. Little bit over engineered but no doubt will find lots of use in the shop. Made with 2.5" and 3" 11ga square tubing. Stackable so they take up less space.
Just be careful of the Babbitt when you take i
t apart. Those are wicked fun to work on and beautiful when all painted up! Cool project!
Love the chain drive cog, too! Those engines are under-rated as emergency “tools.” They run forever on very little gas. Run on anything… crap gas, benzine, alcohol… and can power anything. With belts and chains. Way better than high revving Honda generators for long term use around a farm or homestead.
t apart. Those are wicked fun to work on and beautiful when all painted up! Cool project!
Love the chain drive cog, too! Those engines are under-rated as emergency “tools.” They run forever on very little gas. Run on anything… crap gas, benzine, alcohol… and can power anything. With belts and chains. Way better than high revving Honda generators for long term use around a farm or homestead.
Needs new fuel tank and some other bits and pieces. Read plate wrong - it's 3 1/2 HP and ran a cement mixer back in the day. If serial # source is correct, was built in 1925. Magneto is firing but not putting out enough juice to fire a plug so I've sent that off to someone that knows mags vs trying to analyze/fix on my own.
Custom scope ring for a Meibo spotting scope. Wish I could find out more about the glass as it's pre fuji/fujinon and 90mm to boot.
Building a parallel 3 link. Its from parts from ruffstuff, it should net me 20” of rear travel, front will be a jd fab 3.25” over long travel with working 4x4. Its a toyota t100, manual trans 3.4 and will be supercharged and 5.29 gears. Doing 99% of the work myself.
Had to french the frame for the shocks, need to do the driver side and gusset/plate that. Bolt in bed cage coming up this week. We will see how that ends up. It will be simple, trying to keep the bed 95% usable.
Not my sexiest work, but i ran out of patience on how many bends to do and make it fit. Its bolt on so i can change it later if i desire. 20” of travel with 1” left on the coilover. Panhard moves the axle 2” over entire range. More than i would like, but its how it goes. If i moved the gas tank to the rear and turn it 90* i can easily do a triangulated 4 link and lob off the panhard. I feel like that will happen, just not right now. I need to get this pos driving as have another project to do. Ill put it into my shop at that point to do the front. Its mostly bolt on, except the hoops and engine cage. Ill loose the ability to borrow a bender, so ill buy a jd2 model 32 and their notcher. Bout 1k with 1 die.
Front jd fab kit. Also powdercoated the stock calipers. It didn’t come out like i hoped, but it will look fine on the truck painted trd pro army green.
I have the largest hobart wire feed they make. Which is just a miller with a different sticker.
I had my settings off on some of my welds and i am pissed about it, not sure why I didn’t think to correct it, but it will all stick. Just not as pretty as i like.
Once my shop is up
And running i will be needing a table as well, although i might just put a thick steel top On my current table and call it a day. I have had 3 tables pop up for free or cheap but nowhere to put them. One was a 4x8 with 1/2” top and heavy duty casters that locked. Very sad about missing out on it.
Finding enough room for tables is problematic for small shops. Most of my equipment is mounted on mobile bases so I can move them around. The Siegmund table is mobile and height adjustable so will work well in the shop. Picked up a Millermatic 255 a couple of months ago and love the way it welds especially in pulse mode.
New shop is 35x40 with a 40’x12’ patio on the side. It will fit some shit. But as soon as you stuff vehicles in it, it shrinks, a lot!
Scope tracking and testing base.
Thanks to Rthur for the baseplate!! If anyone is interested, he may be doing a run of them.
Sirhr
Thanks to Rthur for the baseplate!! If anyone is interested, he may be doing a run of them.
Sirhr
Put this one together in my shop one weekend using receiver tubing and weighs about 35 pounds .
If it were me I would tie the corners into the tongue, like an "A-Frame".
It will really stiffen it up and take any radial twist out of it.
I kinda always had a hankering for one of these rimfire integrals. Finally got my form1 back and did it. I found a late 60s Ruger Mk1 to use as the donor pistol.
The CAD work:
The finished widget, in cobalt cerakote:
It sounds pretty good. A bit more first round pop than I like, but otherwise quite good. The 4 ports 1" from the chamber reduce standard .22 ammo to subsonic velocity.
It took about 4 hours to make. The hardest part was building up with TIG and and machining the front sight boss onto the tube.
The CAD work:
The finished widget, in cobalt cerakote:
It sounds pretty good. A bit more first round pop than I like, but otherwise quite good. The 4 ports 1" from the chamber reduce standard .22 ammo to subsonic velocity.
It took about 4 hours to make. The hardest part was building up with TIG and and machining the front sight boss onto the tube.
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I restored one like that years ago.
Was a 'famous hopper' 1 horse rated at 550 rpm....we got it up to about 1100 rpm.
Maybe it is only a low horse rating but the torque is very high, maybe 35 ft lbs ?
We had to take a old set of VW points and screw one contact to the base and the other to one of the flywheels, worked a treat once you get positioning right for timing to be *close*. Used a VW coil too (hey had plenty of that crap laying around).
Be careful, once running it will try to walk all over the place going thump thump
now just need to build an engraving vise. I have a Lindsey palm drive engraver and its awesome. I still suck with it.
Are you using a foot pedal to control it ?
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My engraving vice is kinda a cobbled piece of shit, old bearing for a base, I had a section of a casting that I had machined as round as I could ( damn I need a five axis...) Then mounted a little tool makers vise I had on it. The balance is not like it needs to be and it's a pain to center up a work piece.foot pedal is on order....i was just raw dogging it for the test cuts....
and thinking about building a bowling ball vise next
Engraving vice plan
With the free project that you can download on this page you can make an engraving vice, one of the most commonly used tool of every engraver.www.craftsmanspace.com
One of my buddies has Lindsay Goliath and smaller vise. They are extremely nice, self centering vice, pretty balanced... I want to build mine, I have the dura bar sitting in the shop waiting for me. I just can't get the time and I'm still not set on how I want to do it. There are times I think that something like a 5 axis trunnion and rotating table would be awesome especially if the pivot axis height of the trunnion could be adjusted to fine tune the balance.
As am I. I picked up a few gravers a couple years ago, and have made a thing or two. One of which being a "seal" that My Lady wanted, to use with Christmas Cards and such. People just don't do things like that no-more...
Longer video, smoothed out and running a bit more like it should. Next is a proper sled once I come up w/ some oak 4x6 or better.
Super cool.
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That's about as good as it's going to get. I go to a lot of Amish farmer's markets and see these being used and being sold. Ya got a good one there.
I know this might be a long shot, but has anyone here machined a countershaft sprocket for a transmission or driveshaft? I’m almost done with my 125 2-stroke aluminum frame conversion and I need an offset front sprocket. I’ve already had a few local shops drop the ball due to workload and the riding season is coming up. I would want a quantity of 5-10 and I can get the heat treatment done. Many motorcycle front sprockets are chromoly.
Been trying for years to buy a Mexican to keep up the place (apparently you can't do that!). I particularly hate weed eating, and now at new place, especially along edge of pond where I can’t get to it w/ the mower. Introducing the -
Pond Juan MK I
Juan - get it (yuk, yuk) and MK just because MK anything sounds cool. Trial run went well but I need to keep looking for a wider deck (= MK II).
Pond Juan MK I
Juan - get it (yuk, yuk) and MK just because MK anything sounds cool. Trial run went well but I need to keep looking for a wider deck (= MK II).
Love to have it but if was going to drop $50-75K on a new tractor/boom mower like that I'd put it into paying off the pond first. I'll stick w/ my $100 contraption for now.
Yep, picked it up a couple months ago but may be too far gone.
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