I'd say it depends. 20" looks better naked. I had one, but looks odd with 6" of suppressor. 16" looks odd naked, but is right on with 6" of suppressor. I have one. For .22LR I don't think the longer barrel gains you much ballistically. IMHO
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
I only did the 20" to match my T3X CTR. And I actually like aesthetics of the 20" with the can, but we're all different. Long centerfires (26"-28") with a can look way worse to me. Hell by the time you get to the end of the can, you're halfway to the target. 
I gave up on the base class thing as after talking to many people, you're just handicapping yourself on glass. Parts inbound.
I gave up on the base class thing as after talking to many people, you're just handicapping yourself on glass. Parts inbound.
I'm in the same boat...I did mount the Match Pro on mine...Venom is much better IMO. I also tried a Diamondback Tactical which leaves a lot to be desired, returned it immediately. It really is a shame the Venom will not work I really enjoy that scope.
Sure is! That one is the first prototype that I had outsourced. I decided to buy my own CNC mill and will be doing all manufacturing in house now. Needs a few minor tweaks but I'm hoping to roll it out by the end of October. Chassis base (no stock or grip) and handguard (10.5" is shown here, 15" will also be an option) weights 18.5 oz. The 15" handguard adds 1.5 oz I believe, but it was too long to be used with a 16" T1x barrel.
I shot the rifle last night after work, and I need to add a little height to the cheek riser, But the Venom scope is very nice for a sub $ 500.00 piece of glass. Turrets worked well, good tactile feel, very repeatable. I lasered the bore sight when I installed the scope, it it was pretty close when I put it on paper at about 30 yards. One hole 10 round groups off of the bipod and rear bag were the norm w/ CCI SV ammo at 30 yards.
I need to chrono the ammo and do some more shooting with it, but it's looking like a great combination.
I need to chrono the ammo and do some more shooting with it, but it's looking like a great combination.
Made another range trip yesterday evening.
Zeroed the scope for 50 yards, Chrono'ed both CCI SV and SK Rifle Match with the Lab Radar and did some shooting.
The CCI SV Ammo @ $0.15 averaged 1080 fps with an ES of 70 fps and SD of 16.6 fps for 38 rounds recorded.
The SK Rifle Match @ $0.27 Per Round averaged 1062 fps with an ES of 42 fps and SD of 11.6 fps for 14 rounds recorded.
CCI SV @ 50 yards approx. 50 rounds on target
Target dot is 1.44" Diameter= 0.4 Mil @ 100 yards
SK Rifle Match @ 50 yards 15 rounds on target
Target dot is 1.44" Diameter= 0.4 Mil @ 100 yards
150 Yard ISCA type target w/ CCI SV 4.6mils dialed up
205 Yard ISCA type target w/ CCI SV 7.2 mils dialed up
Zeroed the scope for 50 yards, Chrono'ed both CCI SV and SK Rifle Match with the Lab Radar and did some shooting.
The CCI SV Ammo @ $0.15 averaged 1080 fps with an ES of 70 fps and SD of 16.6 fps for 38 rounds recorded.
The SK Rifle Match @ $0.27 Per Round averaged 1062 fps with an ES of 42 fps and SD of 11.6 fps for 14 rounds recorded.
CCI SV @ 50 yards approx. 50 rounds on target
Target dot is 1.44" Diameter= 0.4 Mil @ 100 yards
SK Rifle Match @ 50 yards 15 rounds on target
Target dot is 1.44" Diameter= 0.4 Mil @ 100 yards
150 Yard ISCA type target w/ CCI SV 4.6mils dialed up
205 Yard ISCA type target w/ CCI SV 7.2 mils dialed up
I didn't this time around, I only had one box of the SK and wanted to get chrono data and see if the barrel even like the ammo.
Anyone used threaded inserts or rivet nuts with a soldering iron to retain the Victor company cheekrest with machine screws on the factory T1x stock?
I want to be able to take it on and off for cleaning while using a bore guide. I don't think the included drywall screws are a good choice in that scenario.
I want to be able to take it on and off for cleaning while using a bore guide. I don't think the included drywall screws are a good choice in that scenario.
During the first outing with my T1x 16" and a Harrell's AR Tactical Tuner brake, all 5 shot groups after initial tuning:
50 yards 0.666 MOA
100 yards 1.093 MOA (0.814" vertical, wasn't trying to adjust for wind each shot)
200 yards 1.308 MOA (1.33" wide, 2.444" vertical, 1 shot clearly fell out of the bottom)
All shot with SK Standard Plus.
1067 fps AVG
58 ES
11.9 SD
1087 fps Hi 1029 fps Low
100 shots in the series gathered.
Saw that one and it looks cool, but for that price will just go for a KRG Bravo and get the LOP adjustment as well.
Stock T1X - 20" barrel:
50m - 55 yds - 5 shot group average over dozens of groups - 0.363"
100m - 110 yds - 5 X 10 shot average 0.983" with decent ammo, CCI or Eley Team. My best Tenex will cut about 0.2" off that.
200m - 220 yds - 3"X 3" - 10 shot group on a good day if I read the wind right - SK Long Range.
I had trouble feeding Tenex also. I ordered 2 new magazines and tried those. One of them feeds Tenex perfectly - no rounds nose up. I also did the extractor spring modification - that helped a bit but it was the new magazine that cured it.
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Can you enlighten me on the extractor spring mod? My 16” T1X only fails to feed with Tenex, runs SK clean with all four mags. My 20” tikka Fails to Feed between rounds 5-7 on every single magazine, the same magazines that feed flawlessly on my 16” gun.
If you search for Kissofdeath's video it explains it better than I could. Basically you have to bend the back part of the spring out at an angle so that the bolt pushes the spring out of the way as the round feeds. The round will then feed straight into the chamber if you do it properly. You also then need to take the front of the spring out of its notch and bend the entire spring out to increase the spring pressure or you will have weak ejection.
Also the magazine well screw needs to be loosened and then the well pushed back to its most rearward postion and retightened. Also, there is some side to side slop of the magazine well into the action. I put 2 layers of tape on each side to make it fit snug. Not real tight just snug. Enough to take out the movement.
Think this may be what you are looking for @Droptinetrader
www.rimfirecentral.com
ETA:
Durrrr he did it here first:
www.snipershide.com
T1x ejector, magwell and mag mod
The large majority of T1x owners will not have to do these modifications to make your T1x function any better. If it's working good don't mess with it. Mine wasn't working good after I installed the IBI barrel with Win 52D chamber. Everything functioned fine with the 1st IBI barrel and the...
www.rimfirecentral.com
ETA:
Durrrr he did it here first:
T1x ejector, magwell and mag mod
The large majority of T1x owners will not have to do these modifications to make your T1x function any better. If it's working good don't mess with it. Mine wasn't working good after I installed the IBI barrel with Win 52D chamber. Everything functioned fine with the 1st IBI barrel and the...
www.snipershide.com
Yes, that's it. I added a few tweaks of my own. I can't help but tinker.Think this may be what you are looking for @Droptinetrader
T1x ejector, magwell and mag mod
The large majority of T1x owners will not have to do these modifications to make your T1x function any better. If it's working good don't mess with it. Mine wasn't working good after I installed the IBI barrel with Win 52D chamber. Everything functioned fine with the 1st IBI barrel and the...
ETA:
Durrrr he did it here first:
T1x ejector, magwell and mag mod
The large majority of T1x owners will not have to do these modifications to make your T1x function any better. If it's working good don't mess with it. Mine wasn't working good after I installed the IBI barrel with Win 52D chamber. Everything functioned fine with the 1st IBI barrel and the...
I went ahead and used rivet nuts and a soldering iron to seat and melt them in a bit after drilling a slightly undersized hole.
Will see how they hold up with no glue for now. #8-32 x 1 1/2" long machine screws were the proper fit for the Victor's holes.
As thin as the plastic is I don't think the typical threaded insert has enough to grab onto.
I put the extended mag release on my Tikka - which works great. Now I have another issue. Even just bumping into a bag rest makes the mag fall out. Is there a good stand alone barricade stop that can be mounted directly to the stock or perhaps on a short section of Picatinny rail. I don't want to go to the full ARCA rail and I want something that I can take off when I shoot offhand. I just can't seem to find what I am looking for.
You could do the Area 419 4" rail with their ARCA clamp with built in stop. That way you could remove it quickly when not in use.
I'm getting extremely weak ejection unless I really man-handle the bolt, even after re-bending the wire according to the post here at the Hide. Is that just normal with this gun? Also, had some fun with CCI Quiets suppressed on Saturday, 6.5mils to get to 100yds.
I also had weak ejection on mine when I first bought it. Somewhere between 500 and 1000 rounds it sorted its self out and I would only get weak ejection on the last round of the magazine which was much less of a big deal to me. After about 5000 rounds it went away completely.
Bolt on a cheap plastic pic rail, and a cheap plastic pic rail barricade stop.
ARCA Barricade Block Pair
Buy ARCA Block online with Crosstac. Check out our Collections and pick the best ARCA Block from us at an affordable price. Place your order today!
www.crosstac.com
Probably as inexpensive as is out there. Inexpensive camera Arca rail sections and clamps from Amazon to mount it.
You'll also find pic rail clamps listed as "NATO rail" gear from SmallRig and others.
I'm getting extremely weak ejection unless I really man-handle the bolt, even after re-bending the wire according to the post here at the Hide. Is that just normal with this gun? Also, had some fun with CCI Quiets suppressed on Saturday, 6.5mils to get to 100yds.
No, it is not normal to have weak ejection. Mine has not had one fail to eject in about 6 - 8,000 rounds.
If you put the bend in the ejector wire to assist the feeding you also have to bend the entire wire from where it is attached to the screw in the opposite direction to increase the spring pressure. The front of the spring goes into a slot and is kept there by a bit of extension on the spring. I didn't remove my spring screw to put the bend in the spring. I just used a flat screwdriver blade with what I measured would be the appropriate length of the bend. Once I had the bend established then I worked tthe front of the spring out and bent the entire spring outwards from its attachment point. Then I worked it back into the slot. It throws the cases at least 2 feet clear of the action even if I work it slow.
Yeah, I did both bends. Maybe just needs more break in possibly. Care to take a pic of yours, or get some measurements of how far off it sits off the magwell at various points? I'd really prefer to fix it myself if possible, I don't have good luck shipping firearms.
I will try and do both when I get back to my house this weekend.
Just a question? Is the spring lined up perfectly horizontal to the slot. Sometimes it likes to bind in the slot if it is not.
Its a finnicky little beast. No wonder people call it the paper clip.
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Yeah, took a few tries to get it lined up, but I'm pretty confident it is. Something else I've read is to make sure you push the magwell assembly rearward before tightening the bolt. I'll check both this weekend when I transfer to the new chassis. Thank you!
It's a little weird that with all the aftermarket support, the spring isn't something you can go and buy.
Hello all, I recently got a new lot of SK Long range match. My 20” tikka will shoot groups like the one pictured below at 50 yards, but averages about a 1.5” group at 100 yards…I was at the range yesterday and at 185 yards on a 4” gong I was only able to get 1 hit out of 10 shots with splash both low and high. Could it just be the lot and my rifle don’t like each other? It just doesn’t seem right that I can shoot so good at 50 but at 100 and over it goes to s***. I’ve tried action screw torque from 25-40 and ran patches with boretech rimfire through until clean. Same result. Keep in mind this rifle is well under 1k rounds probably 5-600.
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I've seen this with centerfire guns. Ammo will shoot rally decent groups at 100yds, then go to shit at 200 and beyond. I'd bet money if you ran some of those over a chrono, the ES and SD is very high.
That would suck big time. I suppose I’ll have to get access to a good chronograph and try it out. I have 250 rounds of Standard +, Tenex, Norma Tac-22 and CCI Standard in my bag. Will probably just re-zero with what little Standard + I have for the match tomorrow and hope there’s a 200ish yard zero target so I can get my dope.
I really hope that isn't the case for you, but off the top of my head I can't think of anything else that would cause it. I've read on here of guys buying entire cases of the really high dollar stuff and it was all over the place. It's still rimfire at the end of the day, no matter what it costs, sadly.
I appreciate the info. Unfortunately I did buy an entire case as there was no option to buy a smaller quantity. I’ll report back after I do some shooting tomorrow.
.22LR is about good for 2MOA at 200yds at best, just due to statistical dispersion...Shoot 8in plat next to a 4 inch plate and see if you have better luck. In my limited expereince, the best way to test usable ammo accuracy is shoot paper at 200/300. Shoot 3x5 round groups, aggreate the results in an app/excell and do the math on the mean radius of disperion
The weird thing is with my 16” Tikka at the same 4” gong at 185 yards with a different lot of SK I can hit 8-10 rounds every time on a calm day. Just got me a little bamboozled at this point.
The MOA of a group absolutely grows at each distance with .22 and the vertical will be a direct result of the ES.
FWIW I did remove the little plastic support near the chamber end of the barrel and shaved the inside of the stock with a razor knife as it was dragging on a dollar bill. I also used 25 inch pounds on the action screws.
I am using a tuner and there was an obvious change in size and shape of groups at 50 yards during the tuning process. I did not try it without the tuner first though.
I took my T1x out at range on steel today. Bowling pin shapes at 323 yards were easy with no wind. 2/3rd IPSC at 411 really required being correct on wind; 5-16" between 1-3 mph. I attempted a 10" plate at 502, the effect of the ES was apparent there, hit maybe a third of the time and could see them going over and under the rest. Switching to a full size IPSC at 512 I went 8 for 10, the misses were wide from wind. No access to the targets and no fresh paint, so no way to get any group sizes at that range.
I couldn’t take it. I took a halfish day off work today to drive to South Dakota for my first NRL22X match. After work I drove 45 minutes the opposite way to the gun range. I shot SK LR, Standard +, Tenex, Tac-22 and CCI Standard. After I shot 5 round groups at 150 with similar poor results (2.5- 4”) I figured something was awry.
This is what I ended up with (SK Long range match at roughly 42-43 inch pounds hard to tell with the wheeler wrench). I am more than satisfied with groups like this. 2 more after around MOA. You don’t know what you don’t know I guess.
This is what I ended up with (SK Long range match at roughly 42-43 inch pounds hard to tell with the wheeler wrench). I am more than satisfied with groups like this. 2 more after around MOA. You don’t know what you don’t know I guess.
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My T1X certainly has a personality all its own. I tried taking the wedge out from under the barrel and free floated the barrel. The groups at 100 went from 1 MOA to 2 MOA. So I put the wedge back in. My barrel likes a bit of pressure.
I use 30 inch lbs on the rear action screw and 32 on the front - tightening them in a sequence of 5 inch lbs front then rear.
My T1X hates all ammo except CCI Subsonic HP, Eley Team and Tenex and SK Long Range.
I have tried CCI standard and it just won't shoot. The same with other Eley ammo.
And SK is the same - it hates it all including Centre-X and Midas - except if I want to shoot only at 50 then SK Pistol Match will give me the smallest groups of any ammo but that same ammo turns into a shotgun spread at 100 - go figure.
When I change ammo the groups don't tighten up until I put at least 20 rounds down the barrel. If I am getting ready for a match I put about 200 rounds down the barrel - that is where it gives me most consistent accuracy.
I use 30 inch lbs on the rear action screw and 32 on the front - tightening them in a sequence of 5 inch lbs front then rear.
My T1X hates all ammo except CCI Subsonic HP, Eley Team and Tenex and SK Long Range.
I have tried CCI standard and it just won't shoot. The same with other Eley ammo.
And SK is the same - it hates it all including Centre-X and Midas - except if I want to shoot only at 50 then SK Pistol Match will give me the smallest groups of any ammo but that same ammo turns into a shotgun spread at 100 - go figure.
When I change ammo the groups don't tighten up until I put at least 20 rounds down the barrel. If I am getting ready for a match I put about 200 rounds down the barrel - that is where it gives me most consistent accuracy.
