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I'm in the same boat...I did mount the Match Pro on mine...Venom is much better IMO. I also tried a Diamondback Tactical which leaves a lot to be desired, returned it immediately. It really is a shame the Venom will not work I really enjoy that scope.Hey, I'm not going to say anything if you don't say anything...
That's one of your chassis ?16” for sure![]()
Sure is! That one is the first prototype that I had outsourced. I decided to buy my own CNC mill and will be doing all manufacturing in house now. Needs a few minor tweaks but I'm hoping to roll it out by the end of October. Chassis base (no stock or grip) and handguard (10.5" is shown here, 15" will also be an option) weights 18.5 oz. The 15" handguard adds 1.5 oz I believe, but it was too long to be used with a 16" T1x barrel.That's one of your chassis ?
Do you do any barrel cleaning in between different ammo?Made another range trip yesterday evening.
Zeroed the scope for 50 yards, Chrono'ed both CCI SV and SK Rifle Match with the Lab Radar and did some shooting.
The CCI SV Ammo @ $0.15 averaged 1080 fps with an ES of 70 fps and SD of 16.6 fps for 38 rounds recorded.
The SK Rifle Match @ $0.27 Per Round averaged 1062 fps with an ES of 42 fps and SD of 11.6 fps for 14 rounds recorded.
CCI SV @ 50 yards approx. 50 rounds on target
Target dot is 1.44" Diameter= 0.4 Mil @ 100 yards
View attachment 7689244
SK Rifle Match @ 50 yards 15 rounds on target
Target dot is 1.44" Diameter= 0.4 Mil @ 100 yards
View attachment 7689245
150 Yard ISCA type target w/ CCI SV 4.6mils dialed up
View attachment 7689246
205 Yard ISCA type target w/ CCI SV 7.2 mils dialed up
View attachment 7689247
I didn't this time around, I only had one box of the SK and wanted to get chrono data and see if the barrel even like the ammo.Do you do any barrel cleaning in between different ammo?
You could also remove the butt pad and epoxy the inserts in from the inside.Anyone used threaded inserts or rivet nuts with a soldering iron to retain the Victor company cheekrest with machine screws on the factory T1x stock?
I want to be able to take it on and off for cleaning while using a bore guide. I don't think the included drywall screws are a good choice in that scenario.
Anyone care to share their average T1X groups at 50,100,200? Either Inches or MOA with either factory barrels or modified guns? Shot a little over 300 rounds tonight at those distances.
SK Standard plus still shooting best, even better than Eley Tenex. My 3, 10 round groups at 100 yards averaged out at 1.2”. My 2 10 round groups at 200 were at a 4” circle and I hit both 8/10 times with some nice center shots. Still not crazy about my trigger weight, might find a timney to put in.
I would also like to ask if anyone has trouble feeding Tenex? I loaded two magazines today and I had two light strikes and 2 bullets midway through the magazine fail to feed because they went nose up in the magazine. Doesn’t happen with SK or CCI?
Right after I shot my 100 yard groups, had a nice group of jakes and toms walk right past the target. Weren’t bothered a bit, despite trap league next door and the guy next to me shooting a 1938 Kar98 (which he was kind enough to let me shoot). View attachment 7664577 View attachment 7664576
I went with the Kalix Teknik cheekrest instead. You need to drill a few holes in the stock but it seems to be ok.Anyone used threaded inserts or rivet nuts with a soldering iron to retain the Victor company cheekrest with machine screws on the factory T1x stock?
I want to be able to take it on and off for cleaning while using a bore guide. I don't think the included drywall screws are a good choice in that scenario.
Saw that one and it looks cool, but for that price will just go for a KRG Bravo and get the LOP adjustment as well.I went with the Kalix Teknik cheekrest instead. You need to drill a few holes in the stock but it seems to be ok.
Anyone care to share their average T1X groups at 50,100,200? Either Inches or MOA with either factory barrels or modified guns? Shot a little over 300 rounds tonight at those distances.
SK Standard plus still shooting best, even better than Eley Tenex. My 3, 10 round groups at 100 yards averaged out at 1.2”. My 2 10 round groups at 200 were at a 4” circle and I hit both 8/10 times with some nice center shots. Still not crazy about my trigger weight, might find a timney to put in.
I would also like to ask if anyone has trouble feeding Tenex? I loaded two magazines today and I had two light strikes and 2 bullets midway through the magazine fail to feed because they went nose up in the magazine. Doesn’t happen with SK or CCI?
Anyone care to share their average T1X groups at 50,100,200? Either Inches or MOA with either factory barrels or modified guns? Shot a little over 300 rounds tonight at those distances.
SK Standard plus still shooting best, even better than Eley Tenex. My 3, 10 round groups at 100 yards averaged out at 1.2”. My 2 10 round groups at 200 were at a 4” circle and I hit both 8/10 times with some nice center shots. Still not crazy about my trigger weight, might find a timney to put in.
I would also like to ask if anyone has trouble feeding Tenex? I loaded two magazines today and I had two light strikes and 2 bullets midway through the magazine fail to feed because they went nose up in the magazine. Doesn’t happen with SK or CCI?
Yes, those were excellent groups at 200.Makes me super pleased with my 200 yard results. SK Long Range is one I want to find and try.
Can you enlighten me on the extractor spring mod? My 16” T1X only fails to feed with Tenex, runs SK clean with all four mags. My 20” tikka Fails to Feed between rounds 5-7 on every single magazine, the same magazines that feed flawlessly on my 16” gun.Stock T1X - 20" barrel:
50m - 55 yds - 5 shot group average over dozens of groups - 0.363"
100m - 110 yds - 5 X 10 shot average 0.983" with decent ammo, CCI or Eley Team. My best Tenex will cut about 0.2" off that.
200m - 220 yds - 3"X 3" on a good day if I read the wind right - SK Long Range.
I had trouble feeding Tenex also. I ordered 2 new magazines and tried those. One of them feeds Tenex perfectly - no rounds nose up. I also did the extractor spring modification - that helped a bit but it was the new magazine that cured it.
If you search for Kissofdeath's video it explains it better than I could. Basically you have to bend the back part of the spring out at an angle so that the bolt pushes the spring out of the way as the round feeds. The round will then feed straight into the chamber if you do it properly. You also then need to take the front of the spring out of its notch and bend the entire spring out to increase the spring pressure or you will have weak ejection.Can you enlighten me on the extractor spring mod? My 16” T1X only fails to feed with Tenex, runs SK clean with all four mags. My 20” tikka Fails to Feed between rounds 5-7 on every single magazine, the same magazines that feed flawlessly on my 16” gun.
I will look for that video. Thank you.If you search for Kissofdeath's video it explains it better than I could. Basically you have to bend the back part of the spring out at an angle so that the bolt pushes the spring out of the way as the round feeds. The round will then feed straight into the chamber if you do it properly. You also then need to take the front of the spring out of its notch and bend the entire spring out to increase the spring pressure or you will have weak ejection.
Also the magazine well screw needs to be loosened and then the well pushed back to its most rearward postion and retightened. Also, there is some side to side slope of the magazine will into the action. I put 2 layers of tape on each side to make it fit snug. Not real tight just snug. Enough to take out the movement.
Yes, that's it. I added a few tweaks of my own. I can't help but tinker.Think this may be what you are looking for @Droptinetrader
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T1x ejector, magwell and mag mod
The large majority of T1x owners will not have to do these modifications to make your T1x function any better. If it's working good don't mess with it. Mine wasn't working good after I installed the IBI barrel with Win 52D chamber. Everything functioned fine with the 1st IBI barrel and the...www.rimfirecentral.com
ETA:
Durrrr he did it here first:
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T1x ejector, magwell and mag mod
The large majority of T1x owners will not have to do these modifications to make your T1x function any better. If it's working good don't mess with it. Mine wasn't working good after I installed the IBI barrel with Win 52D chamber. Everything functioned fine with the 1st IBI barrel and the...www.snipershide.com
I went ahead and used rivet nuts and a soldering iron to seat and melt them in a bit after drilling a slightly undersized hole.Anyone used threaded inserts or rivet nuts with a soldering iron to retain the Victor company cheekrest with machine screws on the factory T1x stock?
I want to be able to take it on and off for cleaning while using a bore guide. I don't think the included drywall screws are a good choice in that scenario.
You could do the Area 419 4" rail with their ARCA clamp with built in stop. That way you could remove it quickly when not in use.I put the extended mag release on my Tikka - which works great. Now I have another issue. Even just bumping into a bag rest makes the mag fall out. Is there a good stand alone barricade stop that can be mounted directly to the stock or perhaps on a short section of Picatinny rail. I don't want to go to the full ARCA rail and I want something that I can take off when I shoot offhand. I just can't seem to find what I am looking for.
I'm getting extremely weak ejection unless I really man-handle the bolt, even after re-bending the wire according to the post here at the Hide. Is that just normal with this gun? Also, had some fun with CCI Quiets suppressed on Saturday, 6.5mils to get to 100yds.
That would be an excellent solution if I was willing to spend that amount of money. I am looking for something that is about 25% of that cost.You could do the Area 419 4" rail with their ARCA clamp with built in stop. That way you could remove it quickly when not in use.
Bolt on a cheap plastic pic rail, and a cheap plastic pic rail barricade stop.That would be an excellent solution if I was willing to spend that amount of money. I am looking for something that is about 25% of that cost.
That would be an excellent solution if I was willing to spend that amount of money. I am looking for something that is about 25% of that cost.
I'm getting extremely weak ejection unless I really man-handle the bolt, even after re-bending the wire according to the post here at the Hide. Is that just normal with this gun? Also, had some fun with CCI Quiets suppressed on Saturday, 6.5mils to get to 100yds.
Yeah, I did both bends. Maybe just needs more break in possibly. Care to take a pic of yours, or get some measurements of how far off it sits off the magwell at various points? I'd really prefer to fix it myself if possible, I don't have good luck shipping firearms.No, it is not normal to have weak ejection. Mine has not had one fail to eject in about 6 - 8,000 rounds.
If you put the bend in the ejector wire to assist the feeding you also have to bend the entire wire from where it is attached to the screw in the opposite direction to increase the spring pressure. The front of the spring goes into a slot and is kept there by a bit of extension on the spring. I didn't remove my spring screw to put the bend in the spring. I just used a flat screwdriver blade with what I measured would be the appropriate length of the bend. Once I had the bend established then I worked tthe front of the spring out and bent the entire spring outwards from its attachment point. Then I worked it back into the slot. It throws the cases at least 2 feet clear of the action even if I work it slow.
I will try and do both when I get back to my house this weekend.Yeah, I did both bends. Maybe just needs more break in possibly. Care to take a pic of yours, or get some measurements of how far off it sits off the magwell at various points? I'd really prefer to fix it myself if possible, I don't have good luck shipping firearms.
Yeah, took a few tries to get it lined up, but I'm pretty confident it is. Something else I've read is to make sure you push the magwell assembly rearward before tightening the bolt. I'll check both this weekend when I transfer to the new chassis. Thank you!I will try and do both when I get back to my house this weekend.
Just a question? Is the spring lined up perfectly horizontal to the slot. Sometimes it likes to bind in the slot if it is not.
Its a finnicky little beast. No wonder people call it the paper clip.
I've seen this with centerfire guns. Ammo will shoot rally decent groups at 100yds, then go to shit at 200 and beyond. I'd bet money if you ran some of those over a chrono, the ES and SD is very high.Hello all, I recently got a new lot of SK Long range match. My 20” tikka will shoot groups like the one pictured below at 50 yards, but averages about a 1.5” group at 100 yards…I was at the range yesterday and at 185 yards on a 4” gong I was only able to get 1 hit out of 10 shots with splash both low and high. Could it just be the lot and my rifle don’t like each other? It just doesn’t seem right that I can shoot so good at 50 but at 100 and over it goes to s***. I’ve tried action screw torque from 25-40 and ran patches with boretech rimfire through until clean. Same result. Keep in mind this rifle is well under 1k rounds probably 5-600.
That would suck big time. I suppose I’ll have to get access to a good chronograph and try it out. I have 250 rounds of Standard +, Tenex, Norma Tac-22 and CCI Standard in my bag. Will probably just re-zero with what little Standard + I have for the match tomorrow and hope there’s a 200ish yard zero target so I can get my dope.I've seen this with centerfire guns. Ammo will shoot rally decent groups at 100yds, then go to shit at 200 and beyond. I'd bet money if you ran some of those over a chrono, the ES and SD is very high.
I really hope that isn't the case for you, but off the top of my head I can't think of anything else that would cause it. I've read on here of guys buying entire cases of the really high dollar stuff and it was all over the place. It's still rimfire at the end of the day, no matter what it costs, sadly.That would suck big time. I suppose I’ll have to get access to a good chronograph and try it out. I have 250 rounds of Standard +, Tenex, Norma Tac-22 and CCI Standard in my bag. Will probably just re-zero with what little Standard + I have for the match tomorrow and hope there’s a 200ish yard zero target so I can get my dope.
I appreciate the info. Unfortunately I did buy an entire case as there was no option to buy a smaller quantity. I’ll report back after I do some shooting tomorrow.I really hope that isn't the case for you, but off the top of my head I can't think of anything else that would cause it. I've read on here of guys buying entire cases of the really high dollar stuff and it was all over the place. It's still rimfire at the end of the day, no matter what it costs, sadly.
.22LR is about good for 2MOA at 200yds at best, just due to statistical dispersion...Shoot 8in plat next to a 4 inch plate and see if you have better luck. In my limited expereince, the best way to test usable ammo accuracy is shoot paper at 200/300. Shoot 3x5 round groups, aggreate the results in an app/excell and do the math on the mean radius of disperionHello all, I recently got a new lot of SK Long range match. My 20” tikka will shoot groups like the one pictured below at 50 yards, but averages about a 1.5” group at 100 yards…I was at the range yesterday and at 185 yards on a 4” gong I was only able to get 1 hit out of 10 shots with splash both low and high. Could it just be the lot and my rifle don’t like each other? It just doesn’t seem right that I can shoot so good at 50 but at 100 and over it goes to s***. I’ve tried action screw torque from 25-40 and ran patches with boretech rimfire through until clean. Same result. Keep in mind this rifle is well under 1k rounds probably 5-600.
The weird thing is with my 16” Tikka at the same 4” gong at 185 yards with a different lot of SK I can hit 8-10 rounds every time on a calm day. Just got me a little bamboozled at this point..22LR is about good for 2MOA at 200yds at best, just due to statistical dispersion...Shoot 8in plat next to a 4 inch plate and see if you have better luck. In my limited expereince, the best way to test usable ammo accuracy is shoot paper at 200/300. Shoot 3x5 round groups, aggreate the results in an app/excell and do the math on the mean radius of disperion
The MOA of a group absolutely grows at each distance with .22 and the vertical will be a direct result of the ES.Hello all, I recently got a new lot of SK Long range match. My 20” tikka will shoot groups like the one pictured below at 50 yards, but averages about a 1.5” group at 100 yards…I was at the range yesterday and at 185 yards on a 4” gong I was only able to get 1 hit out of 10 shots with splash both low and high. Could it just be the lot and my rifle don’t like each other? It just doesn’t seem right that I can shoot so good at 50 but at 100 and over it goes to s***. I’ve tried action screw torque from 25-40 and ran patches with boretech rimfire through until clean. Same result. Keep in mind this rifle is well under 1k rounds probably 5-600.
Looks great. Which height Arken rings did you go with to use the sunshade and caps?Figured I would post two pics of my T1x in the wild today. The rig weighs 12lbs.View attachment 7693695View attachment 7693698