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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Made it to the range again today. I have been using Eley Edge for matches and after last week seeing how well the Lapua Center X performed in my rifle I decided to try switching to Center X and see what happens. Here are a few groups I shot after I zeroed it with the new ammo. After the groups I headed out to confirm my dope.
This was the first three shots at 200 yards. The Center x wasn’t shooting as flat as the Edge at the same velocity. I didn’t measure this group but I know it would have been smaller if I had actually been trying to shoot s group. I was actually shooting at the center bullseye. We had a 5mph wind also which is the reasons n for the drift I was just trying to see how much drift I got. It was actually more than I expected and once again more than the Eley Edge at the same muzzle velocity. There must be something to the bullet shape they use
Well guys, without reading the whole thread, how's the 17hmr's shooting, feeding and ejecting???
Had some fun with the T1X in 22LR. Shooting a dueling tree at 80yds. Also, I wanted to show off the versatility of the Spartan Precision Equipment Javelin "hunting" bipod.
Part 1
Part 2
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Is it a JAE stock
Message - J. Allen Enterprises, Inc.
To our valued customers and fans of J. Allen: It is with great sadness that after 16 years of designing and manufacturing one of the highest quality chassis systems in the world, we have recently had to layoff our employees and close our doors. We appreciate all of you and wish that it did not …
www.jallenglobal.com
Is it a JAE stock
Message - J. Allen Enterprises, Inc.
To our valued customers and fans of J. Allen: It is with great sadness that after 16 years of designing and manufacturing one of the highest quality chassis systems in the world, we have recently had to layoff our employees and close our doors. We appreciate all of you and wish that it did not …
Starting at.....$1199.00 ?!!! Their web site has a very nice "build your own" feature so you can see what it looks like as you add & subtract the features of your choice. Sort of like virtual window shopping, which is all I can afford to do. Lol.
Is it a JAE stock
Message - J. Allen Enterprises, Inc.
To our valued customers and fans of J. Allen: It is with great sadness that after 16 years of designing and manufacturing one of the highest quality chassis systems in the world, we have recently had to layoff our employees and close our doors. We appreciate all of you and wish that it did not …
It is a J Allen chassis. The sticker price is shocking but it is worth every penny. Their gumball feature on their website let's you build exactly what you want before purchasing. I have 2 J Allen's and they are awesome!
So, the Tikka cage in the JAE will take a T1X and allow the mag to function? Interesting...
Yes it will. I just pushed the front collet as far forward as it would go so it wouldn't be a problem. The T1X mag and release can be accessed with no problems at all. However, the pin that holds the bolt stop/release is unsupported in the chassis because it sits further forward in the T1X action so the set screw that supports the T3X action doesn't help. I had to loctite the pin in so we will see how many cycles it will handle before it comes out again.
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Here you go
Very nice. How about some side view pictures
I took it to the range.
Sight her in on 53m with Geco ~1070 fps
I had Geco in the bag, CCI SV and S&B, Geco seemed the better shot out of those three, a bit better than CCI. I also took a box of S&B subs, will try them next time.
S&B was the worst, every shot seemed like that odd 1/5 flier of the rest of the ammo. Hits still stayed within an inch but it made me totally question my shooting and the rifle, 0 confidence.
I’m not an experienced shot so some fliers could well be my fault, i did manage to put some shots in the same hole and in most 5 shot groups 3 touched constantly.
The setup was bad, bench table is stable but the fixed seat is waaaay too far back, I need to fix that. I used to shoot just my pistol at the range so i didn’t really care about that table. Also i used shooting bags filled with rice, friends filled with plastic felt better. I managed to shoulder it where i like, straight infront of me with the butt in the cheast muscle pocket but couldn’t get it to recoil straight back due to the fact the stock was hanging a bit over in the back so i was using the rear bag between the grip and the butt, improvising. The front also doesn’t slide nicely on the shooting bag, I think i will try to learn shooting with a preloaded bipod once it comes, playing with the idea of a monopod for consistency in tue back.
Anyway the rifle feels very nice, i moved to some fun shooting at 75m. I could “easily” shoot 9mm casing, if i missed i kinda knew it’s my fault and the winds (=my fault...it was also windy) not the rifles.
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Btw if anyone is considering between the Berserk and the Bifrost. The bifrosts butt and cheek are rock solid, Berserks have a bit of play.
BUT .... the adjustment... bifrosts adjustment hardware feels like plastic crap to me to be honest, it’s so hard and you have to put some work into alligning it so you can close it.
I know it’s not crap it’s great, rock solid and super light at tue same time, but it feels like crap when working it, when you have it open and you wanna close it on the right spot, you have to put some pressure on the knob so you find a gap for it to be able to close.
Berserks on the other hand feels great
, smooth metal rails/coil. You push the button and it starts to slide up and down the coil. Wherever you wan’t it set up you just release the button. A well proven system all over other platforms and it works great.Bifrost is all black tho ><
I just wish they would leave the metal screw alone for the adjustment and keep the wider rails and smaller tolerances to keep it tight.
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Too bad we can’t get these somehow, without having to buy a GRS first. It’ll fix your pin problem: https://www.grsriflestocks.com/blog/grs-bifrost-for-tikka-t3-t3x-ctr-ctrx-0
The guy i bought it from said the factory said they fixed the problem in the later batch of stocks, saying it doesn’t need that sleeve anymore ... idk... you think the pin could fall out ? or was this a problem only with higher calibers with more vibrations ?
yeah too bad ....
i was thinking of getting a 457 first but due to lack of stock options in EU etc. i opted for a Tikka, would cost me like 2000€ to get a 457 precision trainer from USA (wtf paying 2x the price to get a CZ rifle from USA!!??) and still it would need the stock drilled for a higher cheek hold ... imo it’s a bad joke they didn’t get the Manner with the adjustable cheek and a even worse joke Manners stock versions aren’t available in EU.
At-one version is better (adjustability wise) but wtf again if you want a thumbhole version you have to buy an aftermarket one, why not offer the thumbhole at-one in the first place.
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@Mawskowski
I’m not sure if the pin issue was fixed or not, however I’m sure I read somewhere here on the previous pages that it was. Does it feel loose when you pull it a little, or can you remove it with minimal effort? I wish I could offer some better assistance.
That’s crazy price for a CZ. Imo you’re better off with your T1x anyways ?
I’m not sure if the pin issue was fixed or not, however I’m sure I read somewhere here on the previous pages that it was. Does it feel loose when you pull it a little, or can you remove it with minimal effort? I wish I could offer some better assistance.
That’s crazy price for a CZ. Imo you’re better off with your T1x anyways ?
Shot my 17 for the first time today. Used cci v-max, cci game point, and hornady v-max at 100 yards. Nothing over 1 inch, some were a little under. Shooting between 20+ mph win gusts. The 2 v-max rounds seemed a little better than the game point.
Ejection was not so good. Running the bolt fast, slow, or in between produced a lot of fte's. Didn't try to troubleshoot because I was concentrating on shooting between wind gusts. Need to get the 22 scoped to see if it does the same thing.
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Finally got a chance to shoot the FJ Feddersen barrel. Did not have a ton of time so I shot two 5 round groups for each ammo. Wind was calm, but it was mid day in Savannah GA and there was a heat mirage coming off the ground that made things interesting. Temp was in the low 90’s. I am still getting used to this rifle but overall it is showing good potential. All groups were shot at 50 yards, prone from a bipod with a rear squeeze bag. Scope is an ARES BTR 2.5-15 MIL. DIP 25 MOA top rail and trigger set at 1.4 lbs. This rifle definitely likes Center X and Midas +. It also shot Wolf match very well and SK standard plus. Wolf Match Extra and SK rifle match, not so much. Keep in mind, I have shot 70 rounds total through this barrel so far. It won’t be broken in for another 400 rounds! Also, feeding it a steady diet of the same ammo should also tighten up the groups. I had no feed, Fire or ejection issues. It actually fed better than the factory barrel.
The ejection problems are disheartening to learn about but at least it shoots well??!!
Anyone else have the same problem with their 17?
No, I do not own a 10-22. Purchased this barrel just for this purpose. I bonded the barrel in with Loctite 620 and left the set screws lightly touching the barrel. 620 is what I use to bond in my AR barrels.
Gotcha....so if it didn’t shoot how hard would it be to remove? (Never used that 620).
Did you have to modify the extractor groove at all?
I am sorely tempted to look into one with a Kidd LW barrel or a VQ carbon fiber 17hm2 barrel.
I love one off stuff. So cool.
My 22 is having the issue of the casings flipping back into the ejection port. Read earlier in the thread that the bolt face gets gummy pretty quickly on the T1X bolts. Might be the same issue we're both having?
Frank, I can’t say for the Tikka but I use Loctite 620 to bed all my AR barrels. It is more of a gap filler than a locker. It hardens and has a really high temperature rating which takes care of any play you may have between the receiver and barrel tenon. It works great on my AR’s and when I want to remove the barrel I just put the receiver in a vise and tap the barrel out with a large wooden dowel.
The extractor groove was perfect. I did not modify it at all. Just had to make sure the groove lined up with the extractor.
When I remove a barrel that I have bedded with Loctite 620, I strip the receiver down to just the barrel and receiver and put everything in the oven for 15-20 min at 300f. That softens the Loctite and I can usually remove the barrel by just pulling on it (wearing oven mits). Depends on how tight the fit was to begin with, but AR barrels are usually a loose slip fit to begin with.
Could be, I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. I've also read that some people have had to clean up the extractor with a file to fix ejection problems. Hopefully before the weekend I can compare it to the 22 and see what is going on.
OHH mein gott!!! Sexy italians with hair grease...err germans acting as italians posing as operators with hand tattoos!?
Not move i suggest skip i think i need some eye bleach and .50cal to rupture my ear drums to unsee and unhear....
I agree. I like the look and feel of the heavy barrel. As a bonus, with a 6” can it’s barely longer than with the factory barrel.
I put about 20 rounds through my new T1X .22lr last night. About 20% of the time it would not eject correctly leaving spent casings sitting on top of the magazine. Really pissed me off being I've never had an issue like this with any of my CZ's.
Anyone else running into this issue?
First impressions: Excellent quality like every other Tikka I've laid hands on. Bolt lift is a tad bit heavier than my CZ's but it's shorter so I'm good with that. The single stage trigger came from the factory around 3.5lbs and I easily adjusted it down to around 2. The plastic trigger guard has always been a gripe of mine on the Tikkas but for no reason as I guess I've never broken one. I'm not sure what the point is to that barrel channel spacer thingy but I removed it when I adjusted the trigger.
Barrel profile is perfect. I bought this rifle to shoot critters as my 24" Precision Trainer is a bit unwieldy. I wish it was 18" instead of 20 but it's still plenty handy with my dead air mask on it. The rifle balances perfectly.
The magazine is ugly and the only description I can come up with is "chode-like."
The stock is fantastic. It's solid, light, and doesn't touch the barrel when I gorilla clamp a harris to it. I love the grip angle. I certainly will not be swapping out the stock. It's perfect for a "crossover" walking varmint/prone stock. (that barrel channel spacer--WTF?)
Bolt manipulation is very smooth. Bolt handle and size is perfect. Wouldn't change a thing there.
Scope mounting--wake up tikka nobody wants to use your shitty system. So I grabbed some burris dovetail rings when I bought the rifle at @BrotherhoodArms.
Shooting. The nice thing is I was able to shoot this rifle in the dead of night without waking up the neighbors or my baby girl. The bad thing is that the only white light I had available to set by the target was pretty shitty so that made my aiming points tough to see. The other bad thing is my little weaver 3-10 has fixed parallax at what I'm guessing is 150yds. I will be adjusting that tonight. But--in these less than ideal conditions the rifle shot dang good with my sample size of two groups. (35yds) I'm excited to see what can be achieved during daylight hours with a properly parallax'd optic.
Cool little rifle--just need to get the ejection issue figured out.
Anyone else running into this issue?
First impressions: Excellent quality like every other Tikka I've laid hands on. Bolt lift is a tad bit heavier than my CZ's but it's shorter so I'm good with that. The single stage trigger came from the factory around 3.5lbs and I easily adjusted it down to around 2. The plastic trigger guard has always been a gripe of mine on the Tikkas but for no reason as I guess I've never broken one. I'm not sure what the point is to that barrel channel spacer thingy but I removed it when I adjusted the trigger.
Barrel profile is perfect. I bought this rifle to shoot critters as my 24" Precision Trainer is a bit unwieldy. I wish it was 18" instead of 20 but it's still plenty handy with my dead air mask on it. The rifle balances perfectly.
The magazine is ugly and the only description I can come up with is "chode-like."
The stock is fantastic. It's solid, light, and doesn't touch the barrel when I gorilla clamp a harris to it. I love the grip angle. I certainly will not be swapping out the stock. It's perfect for a "crossover" walking varmint/prone stock. (that barrel channel spacer--WTF?)
Bolt manipulation is very smooth. Bolt handle and size is perfect. Wouldn't change a thing there.
Scope mounting--wake up tikka nobody wants to use your shitty system. So I grabbed some burris dovetail rings when I bought the rifle at @BrotherhoodArms.
Shooting. The nice thing is I was able to shoot this rifle in the dead of night without waking up the neighbors or my baby girl. The bad thing is that the only white light I had available to set by the target was pretty shitty so that made my aiming points tough to see. The other bad thing is my little weaver 3-10 has fixed parallax at what I'm guessing is 150yds. I will be adjusting that tonight. But--in these less than ideal conditions the rifle shot dang good with my sample size of two groups. (35yds) I'm excited to see what can be achieved during daylight hours with a properly parallax'd optic.
Cool little rifle--just need to get the ejection issue figured out.
Mine has no issues ejecting, but has trouble feeding. Hornady vmax 17gr. The rounds need to be tipped up to feed properly. Sometimes I when inserting the loaded mag, the mag well will bump and make the cartridges tip down and fail to chamber.
The design of the Tikka mags makes them easy to load but prone to this issue. The Ruger 17/77 I had was aggravating to load but fed well.
Guess I'll leave that T1x 17 for someone else to buy.
A friend has feeding problems with his Savage in 17hmr but I hate Savages and never considered buying one.
I know, ask over at the appropriate forum ,,, but - which brand 17 hmr bolt rifles are the most reliable?
I’ve got two Ares BTR 2.5-15x50 on two of my 22LR rifles (CZ 452 Varmint and a Kidd Supergrade). I’ve also got a couple of Midas TAC 4-16x44 on their way for another couple 22LR rifles, but I’m not sure which rifles they’ll go on yet. I may put the TAC on my 452 and use the BTR 2.5-15 on my T1x. I’m having the T1x rebarelled now so I’ll know more when I get the rifle back and which scope fits the best.
Re the BTR 2.5-15: I love it for these setups! They work very well so far out to 400 yards. Zero issues engaging the 4” and 6” steel at 300 yards as well. Great glass, zero stop, 10 mil turrets. What’s not to like ?
I have been using this ARES BTR 2.5-15 on a 6.5 Grendel for the last 2 years. Just switched it to the Tikka. I do not intend to shoot my 22lr beyond 100 yards and this scope has been excellent so far. I find the 15x to be more than enough for even the smallest targets at this range. I have an ARES ETR on my 6.5 Creedmoor and replaced the scope on the Grendel with a 4.5-27 ARES BTR. I find myself rarely using more than 20x. The narrow field of view at higher magnification makes it difficult for me to acquire targets quickly at shorter distances (100 yards or less). I also have a Savage B22 with a Midas 2.5-15 BTR with a SFP. That is A fantastic scope if you like SFP scopes. I have no experience with the Midas TAC, but I think the only thing you give up is illumination and that is only needed for low light shooting.
Needless to say I have had good luck with the Athlons. For 22lr I personally prefer the 2.5-15 magnification. I like the wider field of view and forgiving eye box.
I haven’t received the Midas TAC scopes yet. I’m sure tho that they’ll be every bit as good as the Ares BTR.
I dropped off the T1x with International Barrels (IBI) and they’re putting on an 18” .920” ?
So I’ll finally be getting a scope mounted up tomorrow and will be testing some ammo to see what my rifle likes. Unfortunately my local store doesn’t have much of a selection, so what you see pictured is what I have to choose from.
My goal with the rifle is to get it dialed it and shoot my local bench rest matches, so hopefully one of those will work since they are all readily available.
Just to be sure I’m going to test it right, I should fire 15-20 rounds of each type before measuring group size correct? I will shoot 2-3 5 round groups of each at 50 yards. Any tips on how I should perform the group testing would be great, as this is the first rimfire I’ve done this for. I’ve mostly just grabbed whatever was handy and just ran it through my 10/22 for plinking.
My goal with the rifle is to get it dialed it and shoot my local bench rest matches, so hopefully one of those will work since they are all readily available.
Just to be sure I’m going to test it right, I should fire 15-20 rounds of each type before measuring group size correct? I will shoot 2-3 5 round groups of each at 50 yards. Any tips on how I should perform the group testing would be great, as this is the first rimfire I’ve done this for. I’ve mostly just grabbed whatever was handy and just ran it through my 10/22 for plinking.
Some rifles I've seen issues going to different ammo, some I haven't noticed. My 597 will throw shots all over for the first 5, then settle in.
I usually do 10 rounds, then 4 10 round groups. Figure I get a good average shooting a whole box.
That will be sexy. Which chamber? I assume you’re in Canada or do they have a USA location ?
You guys are bad for my wallet. I have a bad rimfire addiction.
I think I am going to reach out to Randy at CPC and see how much he would charge to re-profile a barrel for a T1x. Then I need to decide if I would go 22lr Kidd or 17hm2 VQ.
I always wanted a Sako Quad, even handled one yesterday at a LGS but they wanted 1,100 with only 1 22lr barrel. This should be cheaper or close to the same money and I can use t3 stocks
@Frankr
Similar to Eley EPS.
Edit > IBI just informed me it’s a modified Eley Eps. Similar but slightly bigger in the case body to allow easier extraction.
The Quad is decent. Got one here with a Lilja. Full Euro Optic build. It’s nice but I prefer the T1x. They’re so similar tho.
Similar to Eley EPS.
Edit > IBI just informed me it’s a modified Eley Eps. Similar but slightly bigger in the case body to allow easier extraction.
The Quad is decent. Got one here with a Lilja. Full Euro Optic build. It’s nice but I prefer the T1x. They’re so similar tho.
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Frank, I have two Midas TACs and a Athlon Ares BTR and ETR. Given the current sale they are running on the Ares I would buy one of those. $550 for the 4.5-27x50 Ares BTR is a pretty insane deal. If they were not on sale though I would buy the Midas TAC. The glass is the same so that is a wash. The Ares has more magnification range which can be helpful especially on the low end. It also has illumination which honestly doesn’t matter to me as I never use it. The Midas TAC has the capped windage and a better turret feel. If you factor in the price with the Ares at full price for me the Midas is an easy winner.
I shouldn't have stayed away so long. More interesting things are happening here for the Tikka than on RFC. I have two T1x in 22LR and one in 17HMR. One .22 will stay stock and the other will eventually be in a KRG Bravo with an IBI barrel. Pazzo, I am very interested in your results and opinion on the IBI barrel. My second .22 and the .17 had minor issues ejecting. On both I bent the front of the ejector outwards. This fixed my ejection problem on both. Feed wise, no issues with any. I probably have over 3000 rounds through each of the .22's and 250-300 in the .17HMR. The magazine look is a nonissue for me, after all, it is a 10 rounder. It's easy to load, easy to insert and remove and in the end isn't that what counts? I wouldn't change anything about it. Here are a few photos of mine and the typical accuracy I get.
.17HMR
These are all 10 shot groups with ammo as listed.
Here are both .22's together. Neither are set up like this now.
I have a lot more but you get the idea.
.17HMR
These are all 10 shot groups with ammo as listed.
Here are both .22's together. Neither are set up like this now.
I have a lot more but you get the idea.
