Tikka T1X

I really got only one problem with my tikka t1x and that is the standard stock.
It’s very short for me so I sit to cramped behind it. I’m looking around to buy the KRG Bravo stock but since they don’t have it in Belgium and it’s very expensive over here buy I want to ask if someone can measure the extra distance i will have to the stock one (without the spacers and with the spacers).

Or maybe someone has a picture of both of them next to each other?

Thanks in advance already


P.S don’t know if you guys already know but the threading front teeth barrel are differently in the EU vs the US, ordered a muzzle break in the US but it didn’t fit. So be aware buying overseas ;)


One thing you could also do is find a used T3x Synthetic stock. The T1x drops right in.
The T3x synthetic recoil pad also fits the T1x stock increasing the LOP.

FWIW the T1x stock is a stripped T3x synthetic stock. The recoil pad, pistol grip (you can change the style of the grip) and front grip piece for the T3x will all fit on the T1x stock.


The KRG is shorter than the T1x stock without the spacers by about 0.5 cm
The KRG with spacers is 2.5 cm longer than the T1x stock

The T3x stock is aboput 2.3 cm longer than the T1x stock - you could expect a 2.3 cm increase on the T1x by using a T3x butt pad.

Yes, North American barrel threads are 1/2-28 - Europe and Australia get 1/2-20.


Pic is KRG with spacers, T1x, T3x. Lined up by bolt hole in stock.

To be honest, the T1x stock with T3x Recoil pad, Pistol grip and Front grip is quite comfortable to shoot. The prices for those parts are considerably less than going to a chassis.....

 
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Paul, that's a good point. I went with the KRG because I have one on my centerfire. The modded T1X stock is tempting.

Tell us about that barrel?

Yes those parts to upgrade the T1x stock are relatively cheap (really cheap in US). The only thing missing would be the cheek pad but there are many options for that.

Barrel is IBI with the Eley EPS chamber. Fluting was another $100 (CAD) over the regular price.
 
Apologies for the double post, a T1X with a 30moa 419 rail and 1.26" height rings and a 30mm scope have a height over bore of what?

Add 0.4375" from center bore to top of receiver where the rail mounts then figure out the height of all the the stuff above that (minus half the 30mm).


0.4375 center bore to top of receiver
x.x" height of rail
1.26" height of rings
0.6" half height of scope tube
_____

x.xx height over bore
 
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One thing you could also do is find a used T3x Synthetic stock. The T1x drops right in.
The T3x synthetic recoil pad also fits the T1x stock increasing the LOP.

FWIW the T1x stock is a stripped T3x synthetic stock. The recoil pad, pistol grip (you can change the style of the grip) and front grip piece for the T3x will all fit on the T1x stock.


The KRG is shorter than the T1x stock without the spacers by about 0.5 cm
The KRG with spacers is 2.5 cm longer than the T1x stock

The T3x stock is aboput 2.3 cm longer than the T1x stock - you could expect a 2.3 cm increase on the T1x by using a T3x butt pad.

Yes, North American barrel threads are 1/2-20 - Europe and Australia get 1/2-28.


Pic is KRG with spacers, T1x, T3x. Lined up by bolt hole in stock.

To be honest, the T1x stock with T3x Recoil pad, Pistol grip and Front grip is quite comfortable to shoot. The prices for those parts are considerably less than going to a chassis.....

Thanks a lot Paul for your great response and your detailed picture.

To bad the krg is so short either really loved the look of the chassis.

I already ordered the rubber buttpad but it’s still in back order. There where some tikka spacers also but was a quite expensive option if i would buy the chassis later on, but after seeing the shortness of the chassis i’m gonne go that route.

Already have the pistol grip.
 
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One thing you could also do is find a used T3x Synthetic stock. The T1x drops right in.
The T3x synthetic recoil pad also fits the T1x stock increasing the LOP.

FWIW the T1x stock is a stripped T3x synthetic stock. The recoil pad, pistol grip (you can change the style of the grip) and front grip piece for the T3x will all fit on the T1x stock.


The KRG is shorter than the T1x stock without the spacers by about 0.5 cm
The KRG with spacers is 2.5 cm longer than the T1x stock

The T3x stock is aboput 2.3 cm longer than the T1x stock - you could expect a 2.3 cm increase on the T1x by using a T3x butt pad.

Yes, North American barrel threads are 1/2-20 - Europe and Australia get 1/2-28.


Pic is KRG with spacers, T1x, T3x. Lined up by bolt hole in stock.

To be honest, the T1x stock with T3x Recoil pad, Pistol grip and Front grip is quite comfortable to shoot. The prices for those parts are considerably less than going to a chassis.....


Paul, in the US most muzzles are either threaded 1/2-28 or 5/8-24. in general most bores over 22 cal are threaded 5/8-24. It’s possible that the muzzle Break that was purchased was either a 5/8-24. It could also be one of the more obscure sizes but i haven’t seen those that often.
 
Paul, that math gets me to 2.3xx which is a little rich. That's more than my 6.5 Creed with the same height rings. And when I eyeball that is seems big.

At the turrets, I think it looks more like 2.15.

At the objective lense (which is where geoballistics wants it measured, per there instructions) I got 1.999 to 2.002. both of those look small by the same amount that 2.3xx looks big. - probably because of the slope of the rail(!) 30moa is a LOT, evidently. Looks like a lot more than 20.

I am going to put 2.00 in my calculator and see what if any errors I get as I move out at distance.
 
Paul, in the US most muzzles are either threaded 1/2-28 or 5/8-24. in general most bores over 22 cal are threaded 5/8-24. It’s possible that the muzzle Break that was purchased was either a 5/8-24. It could also be one of the more obscure sizes but i haven’t seen those that often.

Oops, I reverse them - thanks

Tikka did 1/2-28 for North America and 1/2-20 for Europe and Oz.....

I corrected my post above
 
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Paul, that math gets me to 2.3xx which is a little rich. That's more than my 6.5 Creed with the same height rings. And when I eyeball that is seems big.

At the turrets, I think it looks more like 2.15.

At the objective lense (which is where geoballistics wants it measured, per there instructions) I got 1.999 to 2.002. both of those look small by the same amount that 2.3xx looks big. - probably because of the slope of the rail(!) 30moa is a LOT, evidently. Looks like a lot more than 20.

I am going to put 2.00 in my calculator and see what if any errors I get as I move out at distance.


Rings and rail probably are less height than specified due to the dovetails, not sure - would seem that way if the numbers are not adding up.

On mine I measured from center bore to center scope tube at the position of the turrets. I have a 25MOA rail and another 25 MOA ring inserts. Strelok Pro is good so far at 25/50 and 100. Will see how it goes as I get further out.
 
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Search around on Ebay for a take off CTR stock. You can rob the parts off of it for your T1 I found on for $50.00 robbed the recoil pad, pistol grip and cheek riser and installed them on my T1. Made it a much better fit. The cheek riser is held on with a screw. I put foam inbetween it and the stock to raise it even more. Had to use a longer screw but it works great.
 
So I got my T1x with the new barrel and got it out to the range. I think I’m going to bead blast the barrel and cerakote the action black but I’m still pondering that. The barrel is a 16” Feddersen blank that I ordered directly from Feddersen before it was chambered or had a tenon turned. I believe the blank was $145 before shipping. The chamber is an Eley EPS chamber and it is head spaced at .041. The reamer came from Manson. Since I put this in a T3X chassis I had to open up the recoil lug well a little. I opened it up then bedded the recoil lug with Devcon. So far so good. The rifle has functioned great so far but it only has about 200 rounds through it. I put 50 rounds of CCI SV through it to season the barrel then 10 rounds of Eley Contact. After that I shot the 9 groups below. These were all 5 shots at 50 yards. I had a bit of an alternating headwind and tail wind which probably messed with my elevation a little but all and all I am very pleased with the result. I’m hoping to take it out to distance tomorrow and see how it shoots.
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Anyone else having issues with the SK Standard + ? My rifle shoots it extremely well but it jams about once per magazine on the fifth shot usually. Not having that issue with any other ammo. Luckily it shoots the CCI SV pretty well so that is what I will be using at the next match. But man it really like the SK.
 
You are not the first person I have heard that had issues with SK plus. I have heard of several other people as well. It stinks if it shoots well plus the price is right. The tikka I bought for my son loves the SK plus but we found that it Eley Contact shoots just as well and is a little more consistent.
 
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Eoddave27, that is some fantestical shooting.

All I did was pull the trigger. The gunsmith and barrel maker did all the hard work. My gunsmith really is an artist and can do wonders with rifles. For anyone interested in having him do work for them I gave him my reamer since I’m sure I will be having more rifles done. I will probably rebarrel a few of my other rifles. He did tell me he was very impressed with the Feddersen blank. I know if I’m not winning matches this year I can’t blame it on my rifle. It is also a nice light 14lbs. It’s a tank for a rimfire but I really like the extra weight.
 
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KOD, "fantestical" is a great approbation but not quite sufficient. This target is simply over the top. Dave, was this shot with bi-pod and rear bag? Could you give us more info about how the rifle is set up? I checked your earlier posts and the only thing that stood out was that you bedded the recoil lug. Are you using the factory trigger? Can you give us more info on the blank such as twist and contour? Your nine targets average .164.

The .164" average would put you in a two way tie for third place in all the four iterations of the 6X5 thread. One of those targets was shot indoors with a BR quality front rest. To boot, you did it with Eley Contact. I hope you have searched every supplier for cases of that lot number. Congratulations!!
 
EODDave I went and ran my factory barreled Tikka today. I didn't shoot any good ammo but at 50 yards my 10 round groups were at best the size of a nickel. Not bad with federal match but not like that!

I ran my rifle hard, put like 700 rounds down the pipe for ammo testing, all suppressed. Boresnaked between each ammo to keep it consistent, didnt open up too much after it got snaked.

Had no issues with extraction, had one feeding issue with one ammo, once. Had one ignition issue with one ammo.

Most groups with most ammos I could cover with a quarter. CCI quiet 22 SUCKED.

CCI SV and Federal Match both nickel or smaller.

Haven't done Lapua or SK yet, so a bit more testing next week.
 
It was shot prone with a bipod and a rear bag. The barrel is just a standard 1:16 Feddersen blank and the trigger is the factory tikka trigger. I think the barrel is a straight .92”. The lot of Eley Contact I have is a very good lot. I shot 20 rounds over a chronograph and the velocity of all shoots were between 1090 and 1100 in the summer. It slowed down a little when it got colder but I would imaging the ES is still about the same. I went back and checked my math again and the average I got was .178 and honestly that is hard to measure. I’m simply not a group shooter and may not be measuring them correct so I wouldn’t put too much stock in those numbers. I think the single hole 100 yard groups I get with My Tikka T3 in 6.5 are more impressive. These are both 5 shot groups I shot with my Tikka T3 while I was doing load development. Now that is pretty amazing for a factory barreled action. The only modification to the rifle was putting it in a KRG Bravo. I have been very impressed by every Tikka I have ever shot.
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EODDave I went and ran my factory barreled Tikka today. I didn't shoot any good ammo but at 50 yards my 10 round groups were at best the size of a nickel. Not bad with federal match but not like that!

I ran my rifle hard, put like 700 rounds down the pipe for ammo testing, all suppressed. Boresnaked between each ammo to keep it consistent, didnt open up too much after it got snaked.

Had no issues with extraction, had one feeding issue with one ammo, once. Had one ignition issue with one ammo.

Most groups with most ammos I could cover with a quarter. CCI quiet 22 SUCKED.

CCI SV and Federal Match both nickel or smaller.

Haven't done Lapua or SK yet, so a bit more testing next week.

My factory barrel shot really well. I believe it averaged around .3 with the same ammo I shot today. It was honestly more than accurate enough for positional shooting but I wanted a shorter heavier barrel. i do want to take this out to distance. I think that maybe where I really see a difference.
 
I mean I shot some else's gun and came in 10th out of 30 at the last NRL match I shot, I think even with federal mid tier ammo I can give the vudoos and Kidd's a run for thier money, nickel size groups at 50 are more that good for these comps.

I would like a shorter heavier barrel, for $200 sorta tempting but, I wanted this to be budget friendly....
 
I mean I shot some else's gun and came in 10th out of 30 at the last NRL match I shot, I think even with federal mid tier ammo I can give the vudoos and Kidd's a run for thier money, nickel size groups at 50 are more that good for these comps.

I would like a shorter heavier barrel, for $200 sorta tempting but, I wanted this to be budget friendly....

Yep. For most PRS competitions, as long as you can shoot about a 1/2" at 50, and 1.5" at 100 you will be fine. 3-4" targets at 200. The more important part is that it doesn't fail to extract or feed as that's going to kill your time. NRL22 is also time friendly at 10 shots in 2 minutes. Doing 12 shots in 90s was so much more challenging, and I wish I just had a easier feeding rifle, then a tiny groups chaser.
 
@Eoddave27 please start winning some matches this year. those guys need another challenger to keep it interesting.
He does all the time :)

I've now placed 1st, 2nd, and 2nd with the T1X in my last 3 matches. It will definitely hold up fine in competitions. I beat out 4 V22's today, though the first place finisher was also a V22, but he didn't win because of the rifle, he just straight up outshot me on the unsupported stage by a huge margin.
 
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Shout out to MDT --

I ordered a "factory second" ACC stock from MDT on Black Friday for $400 off. I think they were a bit overwhelmed by the responses they received. I called at the end of December, and they said they were trying to catch up on the order as fast as they could. Well, I got my stock last week, and it's a work of art. If it's a factory second, I can't tell anywhere! Fit and finish are outstanding (I got the FDE), and the T1X bolts right in (after I removed the factory magazine catch). Range trips to date have been very, very encouraging. I'm still working through the ammo to see what works best (so far, Lapua Center-X and SK Pistol Match -- big surprise, right?). After seeing and using this stock, I would probably buy another at retail if I ever had to.

I ordered a lighter trigger spring (best $10 I ever spent), and a cheekpiece pad from HopticsUSA. It has a Vortex Diamondback (soon to be replaced with a bit higher model), a Thunderbeast L-1 suppressor, and an Atlas bipod. I've been trying to find a Sterk bolt handle, but to no avail just yet.

So again, a shout out to MDT.
 
@Eoddave27 please start winning some matches this year. those guys need another challenger to keep it interesting.

I was chasing down Lou at the end of the season and tied for second a few times with Tony. The last 5 or so matches of the season I was pretty consistently in the top 5 of all the matches I shot except for one when my rifle went haywire and needed a serious cleaning. I will be starting this season knowing what am doing with a good rifle. I think this season will be a good one.
 
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I was chasing down Lou at the end of the season and tied for second a few times with Tony. The last 5 or so matches of the season I was pretty consistently in the top 5 of all the matches I shot except for one when my rifle went haywire and needed a serious cleaning. I will be starting this season knowing what am doing with a good rifle. I think this season will be a good one.

very true. plus i think we'll see a more diverse leaderboard this year with all the weekends where there are multiple matches on the same day. should make the end of the year that much more interesting.
 
It was shot prone with a bipod and a rear bag. The barrel is just a standard 1:16 Feddersen blank and the trigger is the factory tikka trigger. I think the barrel is a straight .92”. The lot of Eley Contact I have is a very good lot. I shot 20 rounds over a chronograph and the velocity of all shoots were between 1090 and 1100 in the summer. It slowed down a little when it got colder but I would imaging the ES is still about the same. I went back and checked my math again and the average I got was .178 and honestly that is hard to measure. I’m simply not a group shooter and may not be measuring them correct so I wouldn’t put too much stock in those numbers. I think the single hole 100 yard groups I get with My Tikka T3 in 6.5 are more impressive. These are both 5 shot groups I shot with my Tikka T3 while I was doing load development. Now that is pretty amazing for a factory barreled action. The only modification to the rifle was putting it in a KRG Bravo. I have been very impressed by every Tikka I have ever shot.

Well, you killed it Dave. The target paper, the backer and even the humidity effect the size of the bullet holes. We all measure as best we can then subtract .222". The method is hardly perfect but it is representative and gives everyone a simple formula. They're your groups but I would like to see you try jbell on posting them in the 6X5 thread. There is over six years of info there and yours would be of interest. I'm going to call BS on your modesty. The rifle is shooting extremely well, the lot of ammo makes it possible an you've obviously got it nailed down. CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE
 
Well, you killed it Dave. The target paper, the backer and even the humidity effect the size of the bullet holes. We all measure as best we can then subtract .222". The method is hardly perfect but it is representative and gives everyone a simple formula. They're your groups but I would like to see you try jbell on posting them in the 6X5 thread. There is over six years of info there and yours would be of interest. I'm going to call BS on your modesty. The rifle is shooting extremely well, the lot of ammo makes it possible an you've obviously got it nailed down. CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE
Agree, you should submit it on the 6x5 thread.
 
Suppressor owners: I've never had a precision rimfire so I don't know how much of centerfire can knowledge translates.... Excuse the dumb questions.

Are you leaving your can on the T1x when stored?

Are you worried about gunk falling back down the barrel if it's muzzle up? Or are you storing it muzzle down? (I store carbines muzzle down)

Assuming it's a direct thread and a can you disassemble and clean, what interval are you cleaning at? (Can't do this with a centerfire)

How are you making sure it *all* (baffle stack and baffles within tube) aligns after cleaning, (the baffle stack I always eyeball, and until now haven't cared about it's orientation in the main tube... haven't had big POI shifts but, a pistol or my SBR .22lr it's WAY less noticable given type of shooting).

How are you making sure it aligns/indexes the same on the gun after threading on and off? (my precision guns I use a sandman which has a repeatable QD)

Is the idea I should put witness marks on everything and get it to line up as close when I year down for cleaning or is this a non-issue?
 
When I shoot suppressed I pull them off after more for transport than anything. My rifles and hand guns will not fit in their cases with the cans on. For cleaning I have just been dropping the baffles in a acetone bath and let them soak for a little while. After awhile I just pull them out, brush them with and old tooth brush, rinse them with some more acetone and let them dry. For frequency I don’t really know. I just check them periodically and if they look like they need it I clean them. I would guess it‘s probably around every 500 rounds though. One thing I have found is my rifles are not as accurate with the can on and it changes my POI quite a bit. For those reasons I dont them on my rimfire rifles that often but have one on my handguns all the time.
 
Do you find the can changes group size?

That's probably what you mean by accurate. Derp.

That has not been my experience yet with the T1x but I have a lot more testing to do.
 
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I was just plinking with my T1x over the weekend with some CCI SV when I noticed that it was putting together some tight groups. So I sprayed the spinner white and shot 5 rounds to see what it was really doing. Needless to say I am pleased.