Thanks for that, being a lefty myself if I get impatient I'll look into swapping out the barrel to .22LR
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Any of you lefties just give up and shoot right handed rifles? That's what I ended up doing haha
I bought a right hand 16" barrel, I will swap it out if the left handed ones ever show up.
I wonder if the barrels can be swapped for left to right hand?
I wonder if the barrels can be swapped for left to right hand?
I have the RH T1x and still enjoy shooting it, but because its such a nice rifle I'd love one in my 'normal' left handed configuration. Have a LH CZ452 and it's faster and more comfortable to shoot, but a T1x will be something I can customise.
Have you actually done this? If you look on the Tikka website in the spare parts catalog, page 7, the extractors differ between the two calibres. That's in addition to the different magazines.
Please advise for the rest of us.
ETA:
The parts look pretty darn similar: 22LR here and 17 HMR here.
Tempted to give it a try....
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I have tried this and it does work. That's why I say I know for a fact because 2-3 days ago I just did that. This all started when I sold my accurate 22 LR to Rim-Star in here and my intentions was to put a Lothar Walther 17 HM2 barrel on it. After selling it I kinda had some sellers remorse and I thought about getting the cheapest used T1x I could find and then started wondering about the 17HMR. I have both already and I swapped out the bolts and everything worked perfect. Feeding, extraction and ejection and also accuracy was not affected either way. I will say that I only tried the 17 HMR bolt in the 22 LR receiver and not the other way around. I did this because that's what I was interested to see if it worked. I did try both mag swaps and both work in either.
If the Tikka website list two part numbers then there's probably some minor difference. All I can say it my 17 HMR bolt functioned perfect when used in my 22.
Just tested the 22 LR bolt in the 17 HMR receiver. The bolt cycles and feeds and extracts and ejects a 17 HMR round. Tomorrow I will shoot 5 and see what happens when it tries to pull and throw out an empty. I'll also take a closer look at the extractors and how they grip the rim. I could do that now but that's more in depth than swapping out a bolt and loading up 3 rounds in a mag to test function.
I looked at those photos and just comparing the photos themselves the 17 extractor hook appears to be a little shorter. Even so, in the end the two rifles I have the bolts will interchange.
regardingt LH version.
A few months ago I was looking at a website for a gunshop in Helsinki, Finland which had left hand T1X in stock. They implied that they would sell to the United States.
Does anyone know if such a thing is actually possible?
A few months ago I was looking at a website for a gunshop in Helsinki, Finland which had left hand T1X in stock. They implied that they would sell to the United States.
Does anyone know if such a thing is actually possible?
Many thanks. I didn't mean to be accusatory in my earlier response, I just wanted to be sure it had actually been done, this being the internet and all.
Please keep us informed as this waiting is killing me!!
I do know that Canadian companies pretty enthusiastically will NOT ship to the US, so I'm guessing there could be little to no issue on the Finland end of the matter and a big one at the US end.
I'm a little late posting this, I actually forgot about it. Today I shot the Tikka T1x 17 HMR with the Tikka T1x 22 LR bolt. Feeding was nowhere near as smooth when compared to the 17 HMR bolt. Extraction and ejection was perfect with the LR bolt in the HMR, feeding was the only issue. I also reconfirmed that shooting the LR with the HMR bolt was identical to using the LR bolt. The reason for the rough feeding is the extractor on the LR bolt is not letting the HMR case rim come up between the bolt face and extractor. This can be confirmed by just doing a visual on the extractors as the difference is evident.
Here's my 22 LR with IBI barrel.
Here's my 17 HMR with factory barrel.
Both
Here's some comparison photos between the two bolts and ejectors. For the most part the bolts are the same. I took measurements and taking into account my measurement errors the bolts are pretty much the same. The extractors are different as adamjma discovered on MGW website.
This is the 17 HMR extractor. Notice the hook is shorter but the gap is wider when compared to the 22 LR extractor.
22 LR extractor.
17 HMR
22 LR
22 LR on top, 17 HMR on bottom
According to this experiment it is my belief that if a person buys a factory Tikka T1x in 17 HMR he can swap out the barrel to a 22 LR and not change the extractor. I would also "bet" that the 17 HMR bolt/extractor would also work with the 17 HM2 and the 22 Magnum.
It is my belief that if a person buys a factory Tikka T1x in 22 LR you could buy a 17 HM2 barrel and not have to change the extractor. However, if a person decided to use a 17 HMR or 22 Mag barrel with an original 22 LR bolt they "should" change the extractor just to save aggravation. Plus, over time I do believe the 22 LR extractor would eventually break.
In the end, take what I say with a grain of salt. Only thing I have really done is confirm that my 22 LR and 17 HMR bolts will interchange.
Here's my 22 LR with IBI barrel.
Here's my 17 HMR with factory barrel.
Both
Here's some comparison photos between the two bolts and ejectors. For the most part the bolts are the same. I took measurements and taking into account my measurement errors the bolts are pretty much the same. The extractors are different as adamjma discovered on MGW website.
This is the 17 HMR extractor. Notice the hook is shorter but the gap is wider when compared to the 22 LR extractor.
22 LR extractor.
17 HMR
22 LR
22 LR on top, 17 HMR on bottom
According to this experiment it is my belief that if a person buys a factory Tikka T1x in 17 HMR he can swap out the barrel to a 22 LR and not change the extractor. I would also "bet" that the 17 HMR bolt/extractor would also work with the 17 HM2 and the 22 Magnum.
It is my belief that if a person buys a factory Tikka T1x in 22 LR you could buy a 17 HM2 barrel and not have to change the extractor. However, if a person decided to use a 17 HMR or 22 Mag barrel with an original 22 LR bolt they "should" change the extractor just to save aggravation. Plus, over time I do believe the 22 LR extractor would eventually break.
In the end, take what I say with a grain of salt. Only thing I have really done is confirm that my 22 LR and 17 HMR bolts will interchange.
Thank you SO MUCH for this! I'm very tempted to snatch up a 17 HMR lefty now.
You are welcome, and I have to believe you will be ok with doing this.
You are welcome, and I have to believe you will be ok with doing this.
If only I hadn't just splurged on a shitty Chinese LMG in an act of spite against our draconian firearms laws....
Not sure I can sneak TWO new guns past the wife....
If only I hadn't just splurged on a shitty Chinese LMG in an act of spite against our draconian firearms laws....
Not sure I can sneak TWO new guns past the wife....
Looks like a dangerous, somewhat black rifle. Trudeau will be sending the incompetent RCMP to your door soon hahaha
For the time being it is classed the same as a bog standard bolt action hunting rifle. To say our gun laws are inconsistent would be an understatement.
Apologies for the thread derailment. Back to the main event!
Is that the current chamber from IBI? I am looking at barrels for my 457 and I can get the IBI 22" from Brownell's for $290 shipped. How does it feed? I am looking for a NRL22 barrel with a chamber that will not have feeding issues.
The chamber I have feeds perfect and can easily eject an unfired round. Last I heard the Calfee chamber is what IBI is using now. $290 shipped is a heck of a deal. I'd be interested to know how the threaded version shoots.
Thanks KOD I hit the order button, it should be here in 2-days. My factory CZ barrel shoots decent but I would like to test a different barrel.
Hi Folks, long time shooter but new member here. I have a T1X to be collected next week (currently in 10 day CA wait) and am wondering if anyone here has installed pillars into their factory stock along with aftermarket bottom metal? Will provide better rigidity but would love to know if you have seen accuracy improvements. I realize most are going the KRG Bravo route for better performance / comfort but this will be a truly multi-purpose rifle for me and so prefer to keep the factory stock at this stage. Cheers.
Hey kiwi , I think you may want to do some shooting with the factory set up. I think the general consensus for the T1x is that the fitment in the factory stock (with recoil lug) is quite adequate for a rimfire. I tried different stocks and action screw torques , the only thing that made my T1X sad was going too tight on the action screws. I saw accuracy fall off in both the factory stock and the KRG Bravo when torque exceeded 35"lbs. With the factory stock and SK midgrade ammo mine will shoot consistent .3-.5 (with/without barrel spacer torqued 20"lb-30"lb)Just for clarity .3-.5 is not just a single 5x5 shot group average...I have shot hundreds of five shot groups. It is extremly rare to see a group average larger than .5. Others accuracy mileage may vary but I would bet most are having the same accuracy experience as I am. If you do pillar bed the rifle , I hope you do some before and after testing so we all can learn from your efforts.
Oh and welcome aboard.
Thanks for the welcome @sniperstudent - good to be here - I have picked up a ton of good info and wisdom in the short time I have been lurking. Super helpful and good to know on the torque specs - I expect that under higher torque the factory polymer "bottom metal" assembly will flex some which is why I will probably drop in a Mountain Tactical metal unit (that and plastic trigger guards rub me the wrong way for some reason
). I'll hold off doing any more until I have given the rifle a good run with a variety of ammo. Cheers.The Mountain Tactical bottom metal is tops. I bedded my factory stock a while back with the kit from high velocity hunting Australia, but didn’t really notice a huge difference one way or the other.Thanks for the welcome @sniperstudent - good to be here - I have picked up a ton of good info and wisdom in the short time I have been lurking. Super helpful and good to know on the torque specs - I expect that under higher torque the factory polymer "bottom metal" assembly will flex some which is why I will probably drop in a Mountain Tactical metal unit (that and plastic trigger guards rub me the wrong way for some reason
has anyone ordered an IBI off of optics planet? This barrel is the right price for my to just buy it...but im confused on what it actually is.
The description/title says its a 22" barrel....the details say 26" Either way, that's fine by me...longer the better. But which is it really? Im wondering if its really straight fluted and if its threaded...or if this is the oylmpic profile
International Barrels Drop-In Barrel, .22 LR, Tikka T1X, 22 inch, Straight Fluted, 1/16 Twist, 8 Groove Rifling, Stainless Steel, 10781
Color: Stainless Steel
Fabric/Material: 416R Stainless Steel
Caliber: .22 Long Rifle
Barrel Length: 26 in
Barrel Twist Rate: 1-16
Flutes: Straight
Gun Make: Tikka
Gun Model: Tikka T1x
Code: INB-BRI-IB22LR-10781
The description/title says its a 22" barrel....the details say 26" Either way, that's fine by me...longer the better. But which is it really? Im wondering if its really straight fluted and if its threaded...or if this is the oylmpic profile
International Barrels Drop-In Barrel, .22 LR, Tikka T1X, 22 inch, Straight Fluted, 1/16 Twist, 8 Groove Rifling, Stainless Steel, 10781
Color: Stainless Steel
Fabric/Material: 416R Stainless Steel
Caliber: .22 Long Rifle
Barrel Length: 26 in
Barrel Twist Rate: 1-16
Flutes: Straight
Gun Make: Tikka
Gun Model: Tikka T1x
Code: INB-BRI-IB22LR-10781
Have you read the comments about swapping barrels on a T1X? Its apparently not very easy to remove the factory barrel. It's not like swapping out a 10/22 or a CZ 457. There are some comments on here about it.
On the IBI website I do not see where they even offer a 26, only offer a 22 and 20. Brownells has them but they are on "back order". I have a code for brownells that will knock $25 off if you are not in a hurry and $25 is enough to make a difference.
A few quick groups this morning. I didnt have much time. T1X factory stock , action screws @ 25"lbs and Leupold 4-12 AO. It was 60 degrees and nearly dead calm. I just got some lapua midas + and wanted to give it a try. I didnt do anything between ammo types. Just loaded the mag with 10 and moved to the next closest bull. 5 shot groups @ 50 yds from a bench with a rest. This gun really will shoot groups like this all day long. I think all the T1x's will shoot sub moa with decent ammo.
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Sniper Student-
Great shooting! Good to hear that the mid to high end ammo are shooting well.
As others have posted, the rifle seems to do well with a variety of ammo and shoot very close to the precision of current aftermarket barrels.
Have you observed whether or not the Midas, SKRM and SK S+ have a bigger difference at 100 yards and beyond?
Cheers and happy shooting.
Great shooting! Good to hear that the mid to high end ammo are shooting well.
As others have posted, the rifle seems to do well with a variety of ammo and shoot very close to the precision of current aftermarket barrels.
Have you observed whether or not the Midas, SKRM and SK S+ have a bigger difference at 100 yards and beyond?
Cheers and happy shooting.
If you have a
50 yard zero, your drop at 100 with SK standard should be roughly 7”.
pls keep us updated! Im very curious to see what barrel you get. The only 22" on the IBI site is the weird olympic contour. Im looking more for a straight contour at 22+++"
but for the price, im still game
Hey wolf thanks for the 100 yd nudge. I probably wouldn't have got to 100 yd testing so soon otherwise. I had some decent conditions this morning and enough time before heading out to shoot sporting clays. So I moved the bench to 100yds and had a go of it. The rifle match didn't get a fair shake because my son showed up and cancelled on the sporting clays shooting we had planned and then I was forkin pissed , it takes two people to shoot a round of sporting clays. I was still sitting at the bench and had shot the first four shots of the rifle match when he dropped by with the bad news and I just ripped off the fifth shot in disgust. The second five shot group of rifle match ended up only being four shots , I had apparently not pulled my head out of my ars yet and wasn't able to count to five , so the last five shot group of rifle match ended up being six shots. I think I had mostly calmed down for the lapua and standard +. Over all I was completely shocked with what I saw when I got up to the house and put a caliper to things. HOLY HELL!! I have "group therapy session" nearly every morning...22LR + coffee + #1 bird dog = sanity. Good Times Good Times T1X/leupold 4-12 dialed 2 mils from 50 yd zero for all three ammo's
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Can't complain about those results. I do find that those target stickers don't give a very precise, repeatable spot to hold on. I use a target I made myself with a grid pattern with a darker center cross to line my crosshairs up on. Helps make sure you are holding on the same exact spot everytime instead of eyeballing whether you are in the center of the circle or diamond. Even just drawing a cross with a sharpie works good. Try to get the lines level so you can level your scope when sighting in. Attached is the target I use. It has a 1/2" grid so you can tell how far off you are without going to the target to measure. The green is dark enough to see but light enough to show small bullet holes.
20200925_174534It arrived at 22 threaded straight. It is for a CZ not Tikka.
I ordered a thread protector from a different vendor and I will have to wait to install and test this barrel. I have a NRL22 match on the 3rd so the original barrel will have to suffice. Its shoots the best with CCI SV or SK red
20200920_130230I will have one to my dealer on Tuesday. Not going to have much range time for a little while with getting called back to work and hunting season on us but will try to shoot a 6x5 or two.
Plan on running it suppressed unless i shoots better without. Hope not because I would have just ordered the 20in and had it months ago.
16in T1X came in today. Slapped some parts on it and turned the trigger to 1.25-1.5 pounds. Ran some Aguila SE in the back yard at 25-27 yards. Two of the 10 shot groups. Top shot in the second group was aimed at the inside of the A while sighting in. DIP rail, Victor cheek rest, Tikka vertical grip and recoil pad, 16x SWFA off the 223.
Thanks melglass. Looks great so far. I have really been considering cutting and threading my 20" but it shoots very good as is. I would love to see some 50yd groups when you get a chance. My guess is the 16" will shoot just as good as the 20". At which point I will probably end up buying a 16" model. what silencer is that?
Yea 25 yards don’t tell you much. Prepping the club for hunting season so don’t know when I will get a chance to shoot it farther. Guess I really need to finish the range I started earlier this year. Will end up with 100 yards when I’m finished. Could not stand having a new gun and not putting some rounds down range. SilencerCo Spectre 2
Pulled out the hi-tech bench then cut some bushes to get to 50 and shoot some groups. 10MPH swirling wind just tried to shoot when the conditions felt the same. Both of the Aguila ammo had super sonic rounds and it really killed the Eley primed groups.
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Hi all,
I'm a pistol guy (USPSA) and completely new to longer-distance shooting. I bought a T1x yesterday (20 inch, .22) but I'm completely lost when it comes to scopes, scope rings, etc. I ordered the 30 MOA Area419 rail, since that seems to be universally liked, and I'm currently looking at a Vortex Diamondback 6-24x50. I'll probably be shooting at 50-100m for now, but I'd like to stretch out farther as I learn more. I've got a good stash of CCI SV and CMP Eley Standard to get started with.
As a photographer, I appreciate good glass and I don't want to buy something just to have to upgrade it in six months, but I don't want to go overboard either. And then when it comes to scope rings, I'm even more confused. I'm not sure what height to get, or how much to spend. Vortex seems to have rings from $30 to $150+. What's the advantage of the pricier rings in this case? For what it's worth, I picked up a Wheeler scope mounting kit with alignment and lapping bars.
Thanks for any advice!
I'm a pistol guy (USPSA) and completely new to longer-distance shooting. I bought a T1x yesterday (20 inch, .22) but I'm completely lost when it comes to scopes, scope rings, etc. I ordered the 30 MOA Area419 rail, since that seems to be universally liked, and I'm currently looking at a Vortex Diamondback 6-24x50. I'll probably be shooting at 50-100m for now, but I'd like to stretch out farther as I learn more. I've got a good stash of CCI SV and CMP Eley Standard to get started with.
As a photographer, I appreciate good glass and I don't want to buy something just to have to upgrade it in six months, but I don't want to go overboard either. And then when it comes to scope rings, I'm even more confused. I'm not sure what height to get, or how much to spend. Vortex seems to have rings from $30 to $150+. What's the advantage of the pricier rings in this case? For what it's worth, I picked up a Wheeler scope mounting kit with alignment and lapping bars.
Thanks for any advice!
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