Good list, but I'd also add this if going to use the factory stock for a while:
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Depends on what you want to do. Just about every 22 steel match will not allow .17 HMR as it will damage the targets. I have also seen .17hmr very hard to get in normal times, much less now. For small game hunting or plinking it is great. Since most of my shooting is match driven, I buy what I can use in competition.
IDbound, I have T1X in 22 and 17 and you are right about the ammo. To get the 22 to shoot as well as the 17 especially at 100yds and beyond the ammo cost is pretty much the same. Also with the 17 there is no guess work on shot placement to 150 yds pretty much point and shoot. Mostly depends on what you want to do with said rifle. Good luck.
I have a Tikka in 17hmr and its a joy. I put it a bravo and its been great. The trigger is great and easily adjustable and the bolt is smooth, I have several tikkas so I'm biased but they are nice. Like said above, you won't be able to use them in any 22lr matches and I have not been able to find the gamepoints that it shoots well for about 6 months. I would wait and get the caliber you want or get both.
I won’t be shooting matches so that is not the issue. I am using a CZ452 (I believe) as my trainer that shoots very good so if a T1x in .22 doesn’t materialize I still have something to shoot many rounds of stockpiled .22 shells. Without any .17 on hand I may have just answered my own question.
Mine makes a hell of a squirrel gun.
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T1x form factor seamlessly transitions from field to target use.
Its scandanavian...it just works...
Just my .02$
Its scandanavian...it just works...
Just my .02$
I've only tried the Eley Target, but it didn't shoot that great. SK Std + shot quite a bit better for me.
So this is a unique story....The father of (in English) 'Scandinavian' Modern design is ... in fact a famous Finnlander !
Alvar Aalto - Wikipedia
Even stranger, 'Scandinavia' is apparently now a considered an
English word, with its own local quirks of English usage...
Scandinavia - Wikipedia
In any event, here used as shorthand for good, thoughtful, design
No offense to anyone.
Sako and tikka are good rifles...
Carry on...!
@ma smith i knew what you meant. It's all up in the same region and they don't make it easier. I personally don't have any ties up there. Agreed as a compliment for good design that works. Wasn't attacking you in any way. Just informing both sides of something I didn't know was a thing before I learned it. Carry on.
back on topic.. i'd like to get more weight out the front to mimic the bigger brother gun. anyone know a muzzle device that's significantly heavy. seems like a rebarrel is pretty pointless considering what it does already. or maybe a weighted arca rail?
I have heard that Tikka now sells mags for the 22lr that have the same shorter profile as the 17hmr mag. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Thanks.
I’ve seen a couple without the shark fin now. The profile on the mag of the .17 has been excellent in the field. Love it. If I didn’t already have a tack driving 10/22, I’d certainly be adding the T1x in .22 to the lineup.
If you get the mag extensions from MKM then you can have a nice flat bottom on the mag and run 12 or 14 rounds depending on how much you want to stretch the spring. I have 2 on the way. Can't wait to try them out.
Mags are great the way they are, honestly. The size an weight and way the do mag changes is all great. They fit on pockets well, ingress and egress pockets well, they instinctively always find 'right side up' without looking at them, etc...
If tilks alters them, i hope they dont loose any of that. The mag will occasionally stove pipe a round so they arent beyon reproach, but i stopped worrying about the looks of t1 mags after using them in comps and getting comfortable with the handling.
If tilks alters them, i hope they dont loose any of that. The mag will occasionally stove pipe a round so they arent beyon reproach, but i stopped worrying about the looks of t1 mags after using them in comps and getting comfortable with the handling.
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I had the weird ass live round stove pipe happen today at a match.
I also have one mag that it is a giant pain in the ass to get the tenth round in. That one is getting a MKM 12 round extender for the 12 round stages, so two birds with one stone there.
I find if I push the bolt handle up while closing it the stovepipe happens more often. Not sure why. I have learned to not manipulate the bolt that way.
I used to have a lot of stove pipes at first. 1 or 2 every magazine. Now I can't remember the last time I had one - it has been months. Probably 2,000 rounds.
Here are some of the things that have worked for me:
Did the extractor wire "Kissofdeath" bend. Playing with that I found it didn't eject as well with a large bend so I straightened the wire more so it has a very small bend. It just clears the loaded round and no more. Also I find that the ejector wire works best with no oil or bullet lube on it, so I clean it with rubbing alcohol. The surface of the wire and the small notch on the side of the bolt that it slides on/in.
When it is cool out, bullet lube and debris can build up on the bolt face and sometimes under the main ejector. I carry a toothbrush in my tool kit and give it a good brushing from time to time. If its really built up I will work it over with a small brass brush.
Tried the mag well in various positions. It is able to move forward or back a small amount. I found that all the way back was the best position in my rifle. I noticed that the mag well was able to move side it side a bit as well so taped the sides and front for a snug fit.
I take the mags apart every month or so and clean them out. A lot of debris gets down inside there and sometimes they won't feed smoothly. I will clean them out and lube them up inside with silicone lubricant on a Q-tip so the follower slides nice and smooth. Same thing inside the mag well.
Plastic parts get coated with silicone lube and metal parts get oil.
SO i need some of yours opinion, im going to order a T1X in 17hmr but what barrel lenght sould i take ? is there any benefit to the 20" over the 16" ?
You may give up a little velocity with the 16" barrel. Google bullberry testing, I think is what it was called seems like I remember 19"-20" being optimal but dont know how much you will loose. I think it was more than I was willing to give up so I bought the 20" version.
I would just sign up for in stock notifications at EuroOptic and if you're local to a Scheels see if they'll get you on a list to call you when they get some in.
If you're really wanting one, post a WTB ad here on SH. I did that and had one bought in a couple days.
yes i will use supressor on ether but just wanted to know if i go with 16" i will miss out on something or not. i mean 16" will be a alot easier in the woods.
I have no issue making hits on steel at 300 with my 16", haven't really pushed it past that. Can't imagine I'm missing out on anything vs the 20".
If using a supressor in the woods, i would trade the compact form fo whatever is lost at ELR. Its a .22 and most work in gonna be under 200, heck 300 even in matches.
We shoot to 400 routinely but the points scored there is low in proportion to total match points.
Also, consider a vudoo if you really need something extra 350-400... T1x is pretty sorted up tp 330 then is a lot of witchcraft...
We shoot to 400 routinely but the points scored there is low in proportion to total match points.
Also, consider a vudoo if you really need something extra 350-400... T1x is pretty sorted up tp 330 then is a lot of witchcraft...
Looks like an ATS with a suppressor in front.
Adaptive Tuning System (ATS) - Competition Model (Tapered)
US Patent No 11,333,459 CUSTOM THREADS NOW AVAILABLE! If you would like a thread specification not offered by default, please select the Custom Thread Option and add your thread specs in the notes on the cart page during checkout. Threads smaller than 1/2" or larger than 15/16" diameter are not...
www.kineticsecuritysolutions.com
I'm the exact opposite. I've owned both. Big preference for 16" with suppressor.
I am looking to make a few upgrades to my T1x. Currently it is straight out of the box stock with a Area419 30 MOA scope rail. The main uses for this rifle with be for the whole family to go plinking with. The 2 ranges we go to have dedicated 22lr areas that go out to 100yds. My 12yo son and I will use it out to 400yds and it will be used introduce my 7yo daughter to proper firearms handling and shooting fundamentals.
First, I am currently looking at dropping it into a KRG Bravo stock and adding the toolless adjustable LOP to easily go between my daughter and me. I'm curious to know of other chassis/stock options.
Second, I have been tossing several different scopes on it and I want to get a dedicated scope for it. I've had several scopes on it ranging from an old Leupold Mark AR 3-9x40 to a NF 7-35x56. I am looking at the Bushnell Match Pro but I'd like the get some input on other options.
Thanks,
T
First, I am currently looking at dropping it into a KRG Bravo stock and adding the toolless adjustable LOP to easily go between my daughter and me. I'm curious to know of other chassis/stock options.
Second, I have been tossing several different scopes on it and I want to get a dedicated scope for it. I've had several scopes on it ranging from an old Leupold Mark AR 3-9x40 to a NF 7-35x56. I am looking at the Bushnell Match Pro but I'd like the get some input on other options.
Thanks,
T
I have two T1X rifles, 17&22.
I took them out of them factory stocks and into Boyd’s stocks. They are heavy but accurate..
Has anyone had really good accuracy with the factory stocks? Would adding pillar bedding in them help?
I recently got a Bergara BMR and like how light it is. Not trying to get it that light but.
I took them out of them factory stocks and into Boyd’s stocks. They are heavy but accurate..
Has anyone had really good accuracy with the factory stocks? Would adding pillar bedding in them help?
I recently got a Bergara BMR and like how light it is. Not trying to get it that light but.
Found that. Reason I ask is seems like guys are running them no problem. I just measured my threads and looks like they are around .48-.49” long. Which creates another problem for possibly using a .2” spacer and then being the other way.
Maybe it’s worth getting .1” chopped off the end. I don’t know maybe @TBACRAY can tell us the space to the first baffle. I know the spec, unfortunately if I don’t have to take my rifle to a smith halfway across the state I’d like to avoid it.
You can get really good accuracy with the factory stock, but, it takes lots of messing around with that barrel wedge (in or out) and action screw torque values. For what it is worth I also put in a titanium recoil lug and that seemed to perk it up a bit, it fits tighter in the action slot.
I have pillar bedded T3's in the factory stock before and there was no noticeable increase in accuracy that I could determine.
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