I love both my J Allens, shame they went under. Hope you can find a bag rider and arca rail for it. Also, its super easy to crush the recoil lug so be careful when you go to put your action into the chassis.
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I love both my J Allens, shame they went under. Hope you can find a bag rider and arca rail for it. Also, its super easy to crush the recoil lug so be careful when you go to put your action into the chassis.
Hi all. About to by a CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor (24”) as my first precision rifle. Any reason to go stainless over blued performance wise? Live in Florida, but gun is always stored in safe under a/c and has a dehumidifier.
Any additions or suggestions to make early on? Need rings for a Ares ETR. Want to buy a break ASAP. Going to get a krg bravo eventually. I’ve seen the trigger spring mentioned, as well as the swept bolt handle.
Thanks!
Any additions or suggestions to make early on? Need rings for a Ares ETR. Want to buy a break ASAP. Going to get a krg bravo eventually. I’ve seen the trigger spring mentioned, as well as the swept bolt handle.
Thanks!
Don't have an answer about blued vs SS, but around the rings, I have one in .308 with an Ares ETR. I used Seekins Precision rings 1" high. It's right above the barrel.
Top rifle was my 6.5 with a 24” heavy Palma in a KRG chassis.
Third one down is my 223 with a 22” heavy Palma in a manners PRS1TK. Absolutely love the 223.
Both were made by my buddy at Prometheus Arms up in the DFW area.
Third one down is my 223 with a 22” heavy Palma in a manners PRS1TK. Absolutely love the 223.
Both were made by my buddy at Prometheus Arms up in the DFW area.
Here’s my TAC-A1 in 6.5, Vortex G2 Viper and rings plus Harris. A true modern day laser when I do my part...
A 'Heads Up' for the good of the forum and Tikka owners. I might be wrong here, but from what I and my stock guy have just experienced, I would like to share.
After having my Manners T4 bedded for my Tikka T3x, we wanted to install one of the greatest innovations that I think has come down the pike, the ARCA Swiss dovetail rail from Area 419. While fitting it up, we noticed that the action screws, after the bedding job, were not long enough. Manners and Area 419 are equipped for the Remington clones, but not for the Metric threaded Tikka's.
Not a big deal I suppose, but it was another delay that could be easily avoided by mutual communications between the Stock manufacturer, and the accessories manufacturers when dealing with the Tikka owners. It would be nice if when ordering stocks and accessories, that the Tikka threaded option would be available and included. I have the utmost respect and admiration for both companies and for their constant innovations for our sports. ( Im just a coyote blaster for now ). Cheers!
After having my Manners T4 bedded for my Tikka T3x, we wanted to install one of the greatest innovations that I think has come down the pike, the ARCA Swiss dovetail rail from Area 419. While fitting it up, we noticed that the action screws, after the bedding job, were not long enough. Manners and Area 419 are equipped for the Remington clones, but not for the Metric threaded Tikka's.
Not a big deal I suppose, but it was another delay that could be easily avoided by mutual communications between the Stock manufacturer, and the accessories manufacturers when dealing with the Tikka owners. It would be nice if when ordering stocks and accessories, that the Tikka threaded option would be available and included. I have the utmost respect and admiration for both companies and for their constant innovations for our sports. ( Im just a coyote blaster for now ). Cheers!
Has anybody used the Proof carbon shouldered prefits? I just became aware of these and it seems like a no brainer.
A Bout Tree Fitty.
That guy is from Denmark, who knows if it is available in the states.
It's just a standard M6. It shouldn't delay anything really, as it is a super common thread supplied by any industrial supply place in the US at basically any length needed.
Length at my local hardware store, they were too long, and had to be cut. I think Tikka shooters are common enough now that if asked for, the screws should be available and included.
A Mountain Tactical trigger spring will help lighten the trigger pull as will a Yo Dave. So start with that
I went with stainless and feel it is worth the $ to set my mind at ease as far a maintenance.
I went with a Bravo chassis a few months after I bought it. Much better fit.
I got s Jet Blast muzzle brake from PVA but 6.5 is not bad for recoil
Sweptbolt is an individual choice
So I had my CTR in .260, and went to 6mm Creedmoor. It is an awesome thing. Got a Solid Accuracy prefit for $461.00, and happiness is back again after the original barrel was toasted during a local match. 5 shot group with the tape by it at just under .5 MOA with the 108 ELD M Hornady match factory ammo.
Do any of ya'll have experience with that Seller & Bellott 140grn 6.5 creed ammo? Its about 55cpr online before taxes, I'm not expecting it to be as accurate as match grade stuff but it seems like a good deal for practice ammo.
Shoot 15 to 20 rounds clean until no more copper or carbon and patches are good. Done.
That's about how I do it too. Shoot and clean down to bare metal between each shot until you notice that the copper fouling level is minimal. In my experience, that is somewhere between 8-16 rounds on a modern non - hand lapped barrel. It seems to me to be just like turning a corner. On one shot, it will take a half dozen or more patches to get it clean and on the very next shot it will be 2 patches. At that point I quit messing with it and go have fun. These shots aren't wasted as you can do your rough sight in at the same time.
Don't do any of that.
Run a patch down the barrel to get any debris out of the bore. Then, go shoot until accuracy falls off. Clean, repeat.
All of the cleaning in between shots is more of a mental thing that people do. It's voodoo.
This. If it makes you feel better, go for it. Otherwise you’re wasting time at the range.
1. Receive rifle/barrel
2. Run a few patches
3. Take it to the range to zero, shoot some groups/chrono
Achievement: “ Your rifle is now broken in”
Obviously, there's a difference of opinion on this subject. IMHO much of the difference of opinion has to do with factory vs. custom hand lapped barrels. I would agree 100% that break in on a hand lapped barrel is a waste of ammo but I will stand by my statement that it can help on some factory barrels.
I usually use Hoppes no. 9, but I’ve heard Butch’s bore shine and Sweets 762 mentioned here. Any preference?
I like KG 1 and KG 2. I've used about everything and they all seem to require letting it sit in the barrel for a while to work. I guess I'm too impatient which is why I like KG 2. Some may say that you shouldn't use an abrasive even if it is mild. I won't argue with that statement as I don't know enough about the subject. I just know that the KG products work well and I haven't seen any adverse effects on my barrels. Your mileage may vary.
Does anyone here know what material the T3X CTR bolt is made from? I'm thinking of getting my bolt fluted and if its stainless steel I'd probably leave the flutes uncoated, but if not I need to get the bolt re-coated to avoid rusting.
Has probably been brought up in the 107 pages but have any of y'all had experience putting a proof drop-in in a t3 lite? Looking to put together a 300 PRC.
The new T3x Varmint in .223 came in yesterday, mounted the Athlon ETR on a Nightforce rail, and installed a lighter trigger spring that gave it 1lb 4ozs consistently. Tested 50g Vmax, 55g Vmax, FGMM 69SMK, and Magtech OTM 77g. Didn't appear to like the 50g though it was a lateral spread which could have been wind induced.
For break in I shot 1 and cleaned 10x, 3 and cleaned 1x, 5 and cleaned 5x, and 15 and cleaned. Barrel cleaned up easily after the 15 rnds, 2 dry patches, 1 wet, 2 dry.
Looks like it has potential, considering this is bulk 55g Vmax loaded in new brass. The 69's and 77's produced similar results.
Time to order the KRG Bravo and mags.
For break in I shot 1 and cleaned 10x, 3 and cleaned 1x, 5 and cleaned 5x, and 15 and cleaned. Barrel cleaned up easily after the 15 rnds, 2 dry patches, 1 wet, 2 dry.
Looks like it has potential, considering this is bulk 55g Vmax loaded in new brass. The 69's and 77's produced similar results.
Time to order the KRG Bravo and mags.
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Yes I do a lot. I've been working with them on making a better fit. I am still waiting for them to productionize the new one for the Bravo. The one they originally sold was pretty generic. It fit, but wasn't perfectly cut out. I have a new test one that fits really well, but needs some minor adjustments.
They have pretty nice customer service. But haven't gotten back to me when a "production" version will be ready.
They have pretty nice customer service. But haven't gotten back to me when a "production" version will be ready.
Yes, it seems that a lot of Tikka products come from outside the US. Guess the Yanks are slow to pick up on how good of a rifle the Tikka is.I support Sterk, i use also Atlasworx gear, both from down under
Sadly true. Also, in countries where it is MUCH more difficult to acquire firearms people have a different level of expectation for out-of-the-box performance.
-Stooxie
Anybody have a CTR with a razor 4.5-27 with caps on a 20 minute rail? What height rings/mount did you use?
Seekins Medium is too low. On a CTR, my Ares ETR which smaller than the Razor 4.5-27 needed 1" rings and my caps are nearly touching the barrel. Get the 1" High.
I would like to know that too.
Im about to take my .260 apart, slap an 18” barrel on it in 6.5cm, get the xlr magnesium chassis/side folder and go have fun. Hope the fluted sendero barrel weighs near the factory 22” barrel, but i doubt it. Prob a pound difference.
Just picked up my 6.5 varmint, gonna put it in a MDT ACC chassis. If it shoots like my 308 CTR it's gonna be a hammer!
On the barrel break in as far as cleaning goes. Well there are a lot of theory’s among the best barrel makers. Most recommend some sort of shoot a few clean. Repeat.
The real thing you need to do is break in the barrel as far as speed goes before load dev. Did calibers usually require different numbers of rounds before they settle in. On my 6mm I get around 120-150 then start some load dev. I don’t want to go to a match with less than 200 rnds down the barrel. The 6.5 usually is less in the neighborhood of 100-120 ish. To be honest, don’t play with the 308 stuff as much. So I don’t have a basis for that. But if you have some ammo. Crono it until it settles down. I’ve seen as much as 40-50 FPS gain on 6mm barrels
Found the following on another forum..... 1lb 14oz for the action, bolt, and trigger.
