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Vudoo Gun Works V-22 Rimfire Bolt Action
- Thread starter RAVAGE88
- Start date
Mag issues - if you bought your Vudoo around March, there were a batch of mags that might be causing issues due to the mold being undersized and the rounds not flipping up. I had one of my mags that way and had to get it replaced.
If not a defective mag issue, then if you're running a MPA chassis and your mag latch is old / not properly fit then that could cause issues.
I run mine in a MDT and I sit the magazine in my palm in offhand stages and I haven't had any issues feeding.
I have found that you can creat a no feed condition (rim lock) if you load the magazine incorrectly. If you simply pull the follower to the bottom of the mag and toss rounds in you can get rims that sit behind the round below. Best practice is to only pull the follower down far enough for one round at a time and either hold the mag level or slightly nose up.
Rob01, I have never had accuracy issues with my Vudoo. I have had mag issues when the mags were not sitting High and Tight up against the underside of the Action. I had one stock that let them sit too low. I changed to an MPA BA ProComp with an adjustable mag catch. I had to fiddle with it for a while to figure it out. And once Greg explained to me the mags were to sit high and tight as possible with just enough room for the mag catch to operate, that all that was figured out. Fixed the mag issues. And the Feeding issues. (I also put a bit of slick plastic on the barrel side of my Mag port to take up a bit of slack. )
I think the Vudoo is quite worth the investment. 4Certain
Hey Rick, touch my name then touch ignore. You won’t be agrivated by me again .
Nooo, correct side. Everyone else is wrong.Better send that one back! Bolt is on the wrong side!LOL
@RAVAGE88
Educational question - did Vudoo switch back to a flat breach? I am guessing this is what this is?
My friend is looking to get himself a Vudoo and looking at the used market to save some money. So he's trying to understand what version/breach etc to understand how much he should spend or wait for a new one. Is this the conal / hybrid breach?
Thanks MB.
Educational question - did Vudoo switch back to a flat breach? I am guessing this is what this is?
My friend is looking to get himself a Vudoo and looking at the used market to save some money. So he's trying to understand what version/breach etc to understand how much he should spend or wait for a new one. Is this the conal / hybrid breach?
Thanks MB.
A flat breach would look like this, with no area of relief at all around the sides:
Vudoo beefed up it's cone / hybrid breach on newer guns to have more support around the chamber but still have some relief around the edges to have a place for fouling to be able to go. The thought is that it makes it less likely for someone to damage the chamber while still having plenty of room for fouling to go. Even their original was not really a cone breach in the way some Anny 2013 owners have cone breaches that allow them to attach the barrel in any orientation as that design makes it super easy to damage the chamber as any impact on the breach face then typically deforms the back of the chamber. I expect you can probably order a Vudoo with any of the variations. I ordered it flat. I belive the standard is now the thicker hybrid breach your #3213 is. I really don't think any of the choices is a whole lot better than any others.
Vudoo beefed up it's cone / hybrid breach on newer guns to have more support around the chamber but still have some relief around the edges to have a place for fouling to be able to go. The thought is that it makes it less likely for someone to damage the chamber while still having plenty of room for fouling to go. Even their original was not really a cone breach in the way some Anny 2013 owners have cone breaches that allow them to attach the barrel in any orientation as that design makes it super easy to damage the chamber as any impact on the breach face then typically deforms the back of the chamber. I expect you can probably order a Vudoo with any of the variations. I ordered it flat. I belive the standard is now the thicker hybrid breach your #3213 is. I really don't think any of the choices is a whole lot better than any others.
Ran a test today to begin verifying accuracy with and without a suppressor on my setup. I have a 16.5" Bartlein, barreled by Vudoo and was running an AAC Element II.
100 yard groups with the suppressor ran +/- one inch. I ran 70 rounds of SK Rifle Match through the barrel then tested the last 3 groups. The last 3 averaged .75" in 2-3 mph wind coming from my 8 o'clock.
Need to do some more testing, but wanted to see if others are seeing better accuracy without a suppressor.
100 yard groups with the suppressor ran +/- one inch. I ran 70 rounds of SK Rifle Match through the barrel then tested the last 3 groups. The last 3 averaged .75" in 2-3 mph wind coming from my 8 o'clock.
Need to do some more testing, but wanted to see if others are seeing better accuracy without a suppressor.
This is the general consensus. You may get better, but most seem to grow. How much is dependent on rifle and suppressor and ammo.
Good afternoon Sagittarius;
I tried the Target Shooting 2400 this morning with my Vudoo Repeater. I run a 3" wide Front Bag Rider on my MPA Chassis. I just upgraded my bolt to Gen 1.2. Runs smooth as glass. I really like the 2400 top. It works great. I like the various adjustments. It does work well with the little Mini Rest 9.
I had put a post in below showing pics of the conversion 1200 to 2400. Here is the link to that thread in case you have not seen it:
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...etshooting-com-m-1200-rest-to-m-2400.7025330/
Let me know if you have any questions. You can PM me... ... I know how to answer it, but I do not know how to start one yet...
Shoot Straight and Pray with me for our country ... 4Certain
Thanks and good to know! The most noticeable improvement was the lack of fliers in those three groups. I usually see at least one per group with my suppressor attached.
I've had this rifle since 2018 and am still figuring things out. Good times.
So I posted my finding at 100yds with my 22TD on my vudoo with two 6x5’s. I averaged 0.7” with the can and 0.6” with out. Groups were consistently smaller with out the can however.
I see the same with a 22 TD on a Tikka T1X. It seems like the Sparrow improves groups more so than others
I finally got out again with my Vudoo yesterday. The range has a max of 50 yards but if anyone else is there shooting closer everyone is stuck at 25 yards. When I arrived I was the only one there. By the time I got unpacked and set up a handgun shooter showed up. He was willing to wait so I was able to shoot these six groups from 50 before moving to the 25 for the rest of the day. I could use a little more trigger time.
Nice! Dry firing is your friend too. Watch some online videos, natural point of aim, dry fire practice.
After getting some cold bore flyers to the right, I did a cleaning on my Vudoo and started paying attention if there would be any flyers.
Seems better now. I'll keep checking my first shot every session.
Seems better now. I'll keep checking my first shot every session.
I had a little trouble with one mag in an mpa, I was lucky to talk to M Bush at Somerset and he fixed it there between matches. No accuracy complaints from me.
Just got this new to me v-22 barreled action.
Vudoo V-22 20" Kukri
Krg Whiskey 3
MDT Ckyepod
Athlon etr ares 4.5-30x56
installed into chassis at 55 in/lbs
So when I received the action this week and installed it in the chassis i noticed if the bolt is closed, decocked or cocked, for a long period of time the very first bolt lift is really hard to lift. Once it has been lifted it cycles smooth like butter. This also happens mag in or mag out. This also happened before it was put into the chassis. Does anyone have any ideas what it might be?
The next issue i noticed was today after taking it out onto the range maybe 2 out of 10 shots of SK Long Range Match would be really hard to feed and push the bolt down. It runs super smooth otherwise. I've only shot SK LRM through it so far.
Has approximately 300ish rounds out of it
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How did the 419 rail mount up on the foundation? I want to add more weight and this is one of the few options I have left.
I like the 80' s themed paint splatter on your chassis.
On the bolt lift, you might try dabbing a little grease on the cam in the bolt that the cocking piece rides against when cocking. That area getting dry or gummed up on any bolt gun can make the bolt lift hard. If I were you, I would be inclined to disassemble the whole bolt as well and check how all the pieces feel against each other and if they are lubricated. There is a youtube video showing disassembly. It is pretty easy to do. I think Vudoo recommends something light like CLP for lube. I am in Ohio where it isn't very dusty and tend to use Lucas #2 grease on my rifles because it stays put.
On the hard close occasionally on the SK ammo. The Vudoo chamber is a tight match chamber. If the ammo gets just a little out of spec on some rounds it will close hard. I have typically noticed this on CCI std but it will be the case on whenever an ammo gets a little out of spec. The chamber is designed to engrave all rounds a little so when one is just a bit off it will get pretty firmly jammed in and you may also not be able to extract the round unfired. Such is the nature of pretty much any match .22lr. I would say the Vudoo is actually more forgiving than most as the lugs appear cut with an extra generously angled surface to help get those really out of spec rounds started into the lands. My Anschutz is considerably more of a PITA when it comes to convincing a particularly out of spec round to get into battery.
Dittos on the difficulty in closing an Anschutz bolt on slightly out-of-spec ammo - my 2011 is a PITA in that respect. None of my three V-22s are anywhere near as hard to close on any of the Eley, SK, or Lapua ammo I've tried in them.
Question re: Scope Adjustment or Attachment:
Good afternoon Sniperhide friends. I have a Vudoo Gen 1 in an MPA BA Chassis with a Burris XTR III 5.5-30 x 56 scope. My zero is at 50 yards. I can shoot and it stays on zero pretty well. But when I shoot at a distance the impact zone tends to move to the Right. Note attached my target today at 150 yards. (Shooting Lapua Midas +) (Holes at bottom of target, not from this session). It could be 'wind'. but I have seen it occur, like today, when there was little to no wind. Go back to 50 yards, right on. Go to 100 and it is to the right. As I try to figure that out, I only come up with two options.
1. The Scope Mounting has the scope not parallel/coterminous with the barrel. They 'point' in different directions. Or,
2. The scope is canted and not square with the barrel. So when I go up to 6.2 MOA to shoot 100 yards or 15.0 MOA to shoot 150 yards it is off because of cant.
What am I missing? What else could it be? I feel like I have looked hard at the upper two issues... Maybe not hard enough...
What would you suggest as a way to Trouble Shoot this? And make sure zero is zero on the vertical axis of the scope regardless of distance...
Thank you in advance for your help.
4Certain
Good afternoon Sniperhide friends. I have a Vudoo Gen 1 in an MPA BA Chassis with a Burris XTR III 5.5-30 x 56 scope. My zero is at 50 yards. I can shoot and it stays on zero pretty well. But when I shoot at a distance the impact zone tends to move to the Right. Note attached my target today at 150 yards. (Shooting Lapua Midas +) (Holes at bottom of target, not from this session). It could be 'wind'. but I have seen it occur, like today, when there was little to no wind. Go back to 50 yards, right on. Go to 100 and it is to the right. As I try to figure that out, I only come up with two options.
1. The Scope Mounting has the scope not parallel/coterminous with the barrel. They 'point' in different directions. Or,
2. The scope is canted and not square with the barrel. So when I go up to 6.2 MOA to shoot 100 yards or 15.0 MOA to shoot 150 yards it is off because of cant.
What am I missing? What else could it be? I feel like I have looked hard at the upper two issues... Maybe not hard enough...
What would you suggest as a way to Trouble Shoot this? And make sure zero is zero on the vertical axis of the scope regardless of distance...
Thank you in advance for your help.
4Certain
Attachments
Have you checked for scope tracking at short range? It could be in the scope erector tracking of to the side. Also could be the scope mounted slightly canted or even holding the rifle (thus the scope) canted.
I would systematically eliminate that stuff first.
I would systematically eliminate that stuff first.
Thank you Jbell. I am not sure how to 'Check Scope Tracking at short range. Once zero is set, I do not touch the knobs. I use the reticle and not the knobs..
I try to use the level to make sure the gun is level and I used my normal alignment system when mounting the scope to have a level gun and cross hairs aligned with a vertical surface...
Where is your POI at 50 yards once you go out to 150 yards and correct windage for the right hand 'drift'?
I have not tried that. Will give it a go... Thank you.
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Thanks Dthomas3523. I am not dialing. I use the MOA on the vertical post of the reticle to account for the drop at distance.
As I look down my Vudoo Barrel it appears the rifling twist is clockwise. So it would make sense that the angular momentum would tend to make the bullet process toward the right. Is this what you mean? How would you quantify that? So much movement to right a given distance. Not sure I have noticed this to this degree before...
Thanks. 4Certain
Spindrift could be part of it. Most of the times I've seen this happen is that people's scopes were canted oh so very slightly. If you were aiming center in the above picture, spindrift would not be that much at 150y.
Spin drift would be about .1. That’s .5”
3mph is wind is .4 or about 2”
Your picture shows about 2” of lateral movement. Cant would have to be fairly exaggerated to be entire 2”.
It’s going to be a combination of some of this. Probably a light wind with cant and/or spin.
3mph is wind is .4 or about 2”
Your picture shows about 2” of lateral movement. Cant would have to be fairly exaggerated to be entire 2”.
It’s going to be a combination of some of this. Probably a light wind with cant and/or spin.
Thanks Dthomas3523. That makes sense to me and I agree with you. I was aiming at the Center of the Red Dot on the target. My Gun was level. I was shooting off rests fore and aft. (Pics below on string on upgrading my Rest from Model 1200 to Model 2400.) I normally am pretty sensitive to my reticle being square with the world. I do realize that my approach of using the reticle requires a Vertical Center Reticle. The Center of the Group is just under 2" from the center of the Red Circle Bull's Eye. I appreciate your thoughts. 4Certain
There are pics of my rig on the string below: https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...etshooting-com-m-1200-rest-to-m-2400.7025330/
The MPA marble ball level thing I find pretty worthless... both times I've had people shoot off to the right was based on the MPA level. Not that it's any scientific evidence, but just some conjecture.
I will set my gun up in a rest with numerous levels and see how the level on the Chassis lines up. I thought I had done that but will do so again. Thank you.
I think you're just adjusted to the right at 50 yards and it shows itself at 150. I zero at distance then move out to 100 for fine tuning of windage. I also have an indoor range. 
The cant to reach a full 2" of movement @150yd with a .22lr is 4.9 degrees.
I agree with you. A little cant, a little wind, and a very little spin drift could easily all add up to 2". That's a great group at 150yd by the way
Have you done a scope tracking test to make sure its not skewing to the right as you increase elevation?
Well worth it for peace of mind. I followed @lowlight 's video instruction on how to do this. Worked well and I now know what my scopes do up to 10 mil in elevation.
P.S. - oops, I see I'm late to the party and also that you hold over and do not dial up...so, never mind! haha
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