Vudoo Gun Works V-22 Rimfire Bolt Action
- Thread starter RAVAGE88
- Start date
Nooo, correct side. Everyone else is wrong.Better send that one back! Bolt is on the wrong side!LOL
@RAVAGE88
Educational question - did Vudoo switch back to a flat breach? I am guessing this is what this is?
My friend is looking to get himself a Vudoo and looking at the used market to save some money. So he's trying to understand what version/breach etc to understand how much he should spend or wait for a new one. Is this the conal / hybrid breach?
Thanks MB.
Educational question - did Vudoo switch back to a flat breach? I am guessing this is what this is?
My friend is looking to get himself a Vudoo and looking at the used market to save some money. So he's trying to understand what version/breach etc to understand how much he should spend or wait for a new one. Is this the conal / hybrid breach?
Thanks MB.
A flat breach would look like this, with no area of relief at all around the sides:
Vudoo beefed up it's cone / hybrid breach on newer guns to have more support around the chamber but still have some relief around the edges to have a place for fouling to be able to go. The thought is that it makes it less likely for someone to damage the chamber while still having plenty of room for fouling to go. Even their original was not really a cone breach in the way some Anny 2013 owners have cone breaches that allow them to attach the barrel in any orientation as that design makes it super easy to damage the chamber as any impact on the breach face then typically deforms the back of the chamber. I expect you can probably order a Vudoo with any of the variations. I ordered it flat. I belive the standard is now the thicker hybrid breach your #3213 is. I really don't think any of the choices is a whole lot better than any others.
Vudoo beefed up it's cone / hybrid breach on newer guns to have more support around the chamber but still have some relief around the edges to have a place for fouling to be able to go. The thought is that it makes it less likely for someone to damage the chamber while still having plenty of room for fouling to go. Even their original was not really a cone breach in the way some Anny 2013 owners have cone breaches that allow them to attach the barrel in any orientation as that design makes it super easy to damage the chamber as any impact on the breach face then typically deforms the back of the chamber. I expect you can probably order a Vudoo with any of the variations. I ordered it flat. I belive the standard is now the thicker hybrid breach your #3213 is. I really don't think any of the choices is a whole lot better than any others.
Ran a test today to begin verifying accuracy with and without a suppressor on my setup. I have a 16.5" Bartlein, barreled by Vudoo and was running an AAC Element II.
100 yard groups with the suppressor ran +/- one inch. I ran 70 rounds of SK Rifle Match through the barrel then tested the last 3 groups. The last 3 averaged .75" in 2-3 mph wind coming from my 8 o'clock.
Need to do some more testing, but wanted to see if others are seeing better accuracy without a suppressor.
100 yard groups with the suppressor ran +/- one inch. I ran 70 rounds of SK Rifle Match through the barrel then tested the last 3 groups. The last 3 averaged .75" in 2-3 mph wind coming from my 8 o'clock.
Need to do some more testing, but wanted to see if others are seeing better accuracy without a suppressor.
This is the general consensus. You may get better, but most seem to grow. How much is dependent on rifle and suppressor and ammo.
Good afternoon Sagittarius;
I tried the Target Shooting 2400 this morning with my Vudoo Repeater. I run a 3" wide Front Bag Rider on my MPA Chassis. I just upgraded my bolt to Gen 1.2. Runs smooth as glass. I really like the 2400 top. It works great. I like the various adjustments. It does work well with the little Mini Rest 9.
I had put a post in below showing pics of the conversion 1200 to 2400. Here is the link to that thread in case you have not seen it:
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...etshooting-com-m-1200-rest-to-m-2400.7025330/
Let me know if you have any questions. You can PM me... ... I know how to answer it, but I do not know how to start one yet...
Shoot Straight and Pray with me for our country ... 4Certain
Thanks and good to know! The most noticeable improvement was the lack of fliers in those three groups. I usually see at least one per group with my suppressor attached.
I've had this rifle since 2018 and am still figuring things out. Good times.
So I posted my finding at 100yds with my 22TD on my vudoo with two 6x5’s. I averaged 0.7” with the can and 0.6” with out. Groups were consistently smaller with out the can however.
I see the same with a 22 TD on a Tikka T1X. It seems like the Sparrow improves groups more so than others
I finally got out again with my Vudoo yesterday. The range has a max of 50 yards but if anyone else is there shooting closer everyone is stuck at 25 yards. When I arrived I was the only one there. By the time I got unpacked and set up a handgun shooter showed up. He was willing to wait so I was able to shoot these six groups from 50 before moving to the 25 for the rest of the day. I could use a little more trigger time.
Nice! Dry firing is your friend too. Watch some online videos, natural point of aim, dry fire practice.
After getting some cold bore flyers to the right, I did a cleaning on my Vudoo and started paying attention if there would be any flyers.
Seems better now. I'll keep checking my first shot every session.
Seems better now. I'll keep checking my first shot every session.
I had a little trouble with one mag in an mpa, I was lucky to talk to M Bush at Somerset and he fixed it there between matches. No accuracy complaints from me.
Just got this new to me v-22 barreled action.
Vudoo V-22 20" Kukri
Krg Whiskey 3
MDT Ckyepod
Athlon etr ares 4.5-30x56
installed into chassis at 55 in/lbs
So when I received the action this week and installed it in the chassis i noticed if the bolt is closed, decocked or cocked, for a long period of time the very first bolt lift is really hard to lift. Once it has been lifted it cycles smooth like butter. This also happens mag in or mag out. This also happened before it was put into the chassis. Does anyone have any ideas what it might be?
The next issue i noticed was today after taking it out onto the range maybe 2 out of 10 shots of SK Long Range Match would be really hard to feed and push the bolt down. It runs super smooth otherwise. I've only shot SK LRM through it so far.
Has approximately 300ish rounds out of it
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How did the 419 rail mount up on the foundation? I want to add more weight and this is one of the few options I have left.
I like the 80' s themed paint splatter on your chassis.
On the bolt lift, you might try dabbing a little grease on the cam in the bolt that the cocking piece rides against when cocking. That area getting dry or gummed up on any bolt gun can make the bolt lift hard. If I were you, I would be inclined to disassemble the whole bolt as well and check how all the pieces feel against each other and if they are lubricated. There is a youtube video showing disassembly. It is pretty easy to do. I think Vudoo recommends something light like CLP for lube. I am in Ohio where it isn't very dusty and tend to use Lucas #2 grease on my rifles because it stays put.
On the hard close occasionally on the SK ammo. The Vudoo chamber is a tight match chamber. If the ammo gets just a little out of spec on some rounds it will close hard. I have typically noticed this on CCI std but it will be the case on whenever an ammo gets a little out of spec. The chamber is designed to engrave all rounds a little so when one is just a bit off it will get pretty firmly jammed in and you may also not be able to extract the round unfired. Such is the nature of pretty much any match .22lr. I would say the Vudoo is actually more forgiving than most as the lugs appear cut with an extra generously angled surface to help get those really out of spec rounds started into the lands. My Anschutz is considerably more of a PITA when it comes to convincing a particularly out of spec round to get into battery.
Dittos on the difficulty in closing an Anschutz bolt on slightly out-of-spec ammo - my 2011 is a PITA in that respect. None of my three V-22s are anywhere near as hard to close on any of the Eley, SK, or Lapua ammo I've tried in them.
Question re: Scope Adjustment or Attachment:
Good afternoon Sniperhide friends. I have a Vudoo Gen 1 in an MPA BA Chassis with a Burris XTR III 5.5-30 x 56 scope. My zero is at 50 yards. I can shoot and it stays on zero pretty well. But when I shoot at a distance the impact zone tends to move to the Right. Note attached my target today at 150 yards. (Shooting Lapua Midas +) (Holes at bottom of target, not from this session). It could be 'wind'. but I have seen it occur, like today, when there was little to no wind. Go back to 50 yards, right on. Go to 100 and it is to the right. As I try to figure that out, I only come up with two options.
1. The Scope Mounting has the scope not parallel/coterminous with the barrel. They 'point' in different directions. Or,
2. The scope is canted and not square with the barrel. So when I go up to 6.2 MOA to shoot 100 yards or 15.0 MOA to shoot 150 yards it is off because of cant.
What am I missing? What else could it be? I feel like I have looked hard at the upper two issues... Maybe not hard enough...
What would you suggest as a way to Trouble Shoot this? And make sure zero is zero on the vertical axis of the scope regardless of distance...
Thank you in advance for your help.
4Certain
Good afternoon Sniperhide friends. I have a Vudoo Gen 1 in an MPA BA Chassis with a Burris XTR III 5.5-30 x 56 scope. My zero is at 50 yards. I can shoot and it stays on zero pretty well. But when I shoot at a distance the impact zone tends to move to the Right. Note attached my target today at 150 yards. (Shooting Lapua Midas +) (Holes at bottom of target, not from this session). It could be 'wind'. but I have seen it occur, like today, when there was little to no wind. Go back to 50 yards, right on. Go to 100 and it is to the right. As I try to figure that out, I only come up with two options.
1. The Scope Mounting has the scope not parallel/coterminous with the barrel. They 'point' in different directions. Or,
2. The scope is canted and not square with the barrel. So when I go up to 6.2 MOA to shoot 100 yards or 15.0 MOA to shoot 150 yards it is off because of cant.
What am I missing? What else could it be? I feel like I have looked hard at the upper two issues... Maybe not hard enough...
What would you suggest as a way to Trouble Shoot this? And make sure zero is zero on the vertical axis of the scope regardless of distance...
Thank you in advance for your help.
4Certain
Attachments
Have you checked for scope tracking at short range? It could be in the scope erector tracking of to the side. Also could be the scope mounted slightly canted or even holding the rifle (thus the scope) canted.
I would systematically eliminate that stuff first.
I would systematically eliminate that stuff first.
Thank you Jbell. I am not sure how to 'Check Scope Tracking at short range. Once zero is set, I do not touch the knobs. I use the reticle and not the knobs..
I try to use the level to make sure the gun is level and I used my normal alignment system when mounting the scope to have a level gun and cross hairs aligned with a vertical surface...
Where is your POI at 50 yards once you go out to 150 yards and correct windage for the right hand 'drift'?
I have not tried that. Will give it a go... Thank you.
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Thanks Dthomas3523. I am not dialing. I use the MOA on the vertical post of the reticle to account for the drop at distance.
As I look down my Vudoo Barrel it appears the rifling twist is clockwise. So it would make sense that the angular momentum would tend to make the bullet process toward the right. Is this what you mean? How would you quantify that? So much movement to right a given distance. Not sure I have noticed this to this degree before...
Thanks. 4Certain
Spindrift could be part of it. Most of the times I've seen this happen is that people's scopes were canted oh so very slightly. If you were aiming center in the above picture, spindrift would not be that much at 150y.
Spin drift would be about .1. That’s .5”
3mph is wind is .4 or about 2”
Your picture shows about 2” of lateral movement. Cant would have to be fairly exaggerated to be entire 2”.
It’s going to be a combination of some of this. Probably a light wind with cant and/or spin.
3mph is wind is .4 or about 2”
Your picture shows about 2” of lateral movement. Cant would have to be fairly exaggerated to be entire 2”.
It’s going to be a combination of some of this. Probably a light wind with cant and/or spin.
Thanks Dthomas3523. That makes sense to me and I agree with you. I was aiming at the Center of the Red Dot on the target. My Gun was level. I was shooting off rests fore and aft. (Pics below on string on upgrading my Rest from Model 1200 to Model 2400.) I normally am pretty sensitive to my reticle being square with the world. I do realize that my approach of using the reticle requires a Vertical Center Reticle. The Center of the Group is just under 2" from the center of the Red Circle Bull's Eye. I appreciate your thoughts. 4Certain
There are pics of my rig on the string below: https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...etshooting-com-m-1200-rest-to-m-2400.7025330/
The MPA marble ball level thing I find pretty worthless... both times I've had people shoot off to the right was based on the MPA level. Not that it's any scientific evidence, but just some conjecture.
I will set my gun up in a rest with numerous levels and see how the level on the Chassis lines up. I thought I had done that but will do so again. Thank you.
I think you're just adjusted to the right at 50 yards and it shows itself at 150. I zero at distance then move out to 100 for fine tuning of windage. I also have an indoor range. 
The cant to reach a full 2" of movement @150yd with a .22lr is 4.9 degrees.
I agree with you. A little cant, a little wind, and a very little spin drift could easily all add up to 2". That's a great group at 150yd by the way
Have you done a scope tracking test to make sure its not skewing to the right as you increase elevation?
Well worth it for peace of mind. I followed @lowlight 's video instruction on how to do this. Worked well and I now know what my scopes do up to 10 mil in elevation.
P.S. - oops, I see I'm late to the party and also that you hold over and do not dial up...so, never mind! haha
Cant the rifle the other way and see if it corrects.
Thanks Red. Good suggestion. Simple. I like simple! Will give it a go. 4 Certain
Thanks Baron23. I do not twist my knobs. Just set the zero and leave them alone. All my drop compensation is from the 1st Focal Plane Reticle.
I do not think 'tracking' applies if you do that... If it does I am certainly curious as to how. Thank you for your thoughts. 4Certain
haha...yeah, like I said
" P.S. - oops, I see I'm late to the party and also that you hold over and do not dial up...so, never mind! haha"
No worries, just ignore me, nothing to see folks! LOL
Good evening Littlepod. What Bubble Level System do you like to use or Recommend? One on the scope? Or are there better eye catching options?
Thank you. 4Certain
For me I have a bubble level attached to my scope, and I level it using a plumb line out at 25 yards and line it up with my reticle. In terms of leveling my scope to a level rifle, I usually just put my rifle on an RRS tripod and lock it down with the tripod showing me it's level.
Try a tall target test @ 50yds to eliminate the wind at range.
As you run the scope up it should stay on the verticle line..
Oops didn't refresh page, not twisting turrets then disregard.
Carry on
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Got my gun all setup so I'm happy. Replacing the bolt knob with something shorter/heavier made cycling it easier
18" kukri profile
ARC Xylo stock
Triggertech Diamond
Brass bolt knob
Burris XTR rings
Meopta Optika6 5-30x56
18" kukri profile
ARC Xylo stock
Triggertech Diamond
Brass bolt knob
Burris XTR rings
Meopta Optika6 5-30x56
Good morning Guys. Thank you for your thoughts. I answered my query this morning. I had NOT set my scope properly. It was NOT square with the world. On this set up I used an old system from the past that worked fine with less magnification Second Plane scopes. That inside the house door jam was not far enough away... I set up this morning with a 55 yard Plumb Line. My Vertical Cross Hair was NOT vertical. That, I believe, explains my shooting to the right...
I had four different machinist levels on the chassis. Made sure the scope was aligned with the Plumb Line as I tightened the Top Scope Ring Screws. Then I readjusted my Burris On Scope Bubble Level. Gee was it off!! The little BB Ball Level on the MPA Chassis was pretty close. Checked all levels and plumb line again...
Now to go find a time to get back to the range and do some more shooting. But I believe this will have remedied the "Goes Right" situation. Yes, I need to account for wind. And a little can still move it a fair amount at distance. And I need to make sure my gun is level when firing. And I need to do my trigger control part... But all those things I can do.
I thank you all for thinking and posting. You were helpful. And I appreciate it.
Grateful. 4Certain...
And may we all pray for our Military and First Responders and our Country on this 9-11 Anniversary.
Stay Strong and Resolute USA. Stay with the Constitution. Live out High Moral Ideals...
Go back and shoot it again. It would have to be extremely canted to account for that much lateral movement. Also, our brains tend to keep the reticle pretty level while we shoot. So, even though the reticle was canted in relation to the rifle, you likely had the reticle fairly level naturally.
I think you’ll find it was a combination of several things still.
I think you’ll find it was a combination of several things still.
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