MARS Zeroing

OzzyO20

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Jul 2, 2014
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Hey everyone,

I got a MARS, and the info sheet is pretty vague about zeroing/collimating the day optic and the WMLRF.

It says to use 100m, which I’m assuming 100y would be better if that’s what I’m shooting in. But beyond that it’s not really specific enough for my simple mind.

In using an Impact 4k previously it had the user measure HOB from the diving board and optical center line then essentially offsetting them (I think it was a 0.6 mil offset or something similar).

The MARS literature says nothing about that what so ever just. Just align the reticle with the vis laser at 100m, and aligning it with the range of engagement is even better. Kinda hilarious considering the device is for finding said range of engagement, but I digress.

Anyone have any advice or tips for how to maximize this things ability? It’s going on a field match rifle so the whole idea is less gear to mess with and accurate range and firing solutions as fast as possible.

Thank y’all.
 
I’ve been using the MARS for a while now and my solution is kind of stupid easy. When I move one to a new rifle, I go out at dawn or dusk and zero the laser to the reticle at 100-ish yards (where it’s obvious). Then I aim at a tree at least 500 yards away and confirm that it’s aligned to my reticle. Then I’m done.
 
I’ve been using the MARS for a while now and my solution is kind of stupid easy. When I move one to a new rifle, I go out at dawn or dusk and zero the laser to the reticle at 100-ish yards (where it’s obvious). Then I aim at a tree at least 500 yards away and confirm that it’s aligned to my reticle. Then I’m done.

And the further you go out in distance for collimation, the closer you get to a parallel zero.

I zero at 900y for the convenience.
 
Bear in mind that the visible and range finding lasers will likely not be perfectly aligned. After I do the visible zero at as far as I possibly can I will do a “4 edge” confirmation with the LRF. I find that a few clicks will be necessary to truly zero the LRF at distance.

I try to use a target with clean edges with a background that is 20+ yards deeper than the target I’m zeroing on. Makes it easier to know exactly where largest area of the laser is hitting.

Don’t forget to adjust your LRF if you tweak your ballistic zero.
 
Do I center the vis laser to the center dot of my reticle? The other units I’ve used instructed calculate the HOB offset. Similar to zeroing a PEQ to offset the alignment of the optic and IR laser.

In my mind that’s how I should do this, but instructions unclear on what is correct for this unit.
 
Zero the dot to the center of the reticle if you're going to do the method @SkyScrapin and I suggest. It doesn't matter about HOB because you're essentially working towards a parallel zero at distance.

Use the HOB method if you're going to try to zero indoors or at a very short distance - like zeroing a LAM.
 
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Here’s a target you can use for the HOB technique. It’s what we recommend. That way you don’t have to worry about a divergence at distance past you converging point. That being said, if you converge at a distance close to you maximum engagement distances. Than it’s not a problem.

Also we have a whole online course covering these zeroes and other rangefinder, how to zero, and employ them. Laser Rangefinder Employment Course
 
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View attachment 8671290Here’s a target you can use for the HOB technique. It’s what we recommend. That way you don’t have to worry about a divergence at distance past you converging point. That being said, if you converge at a distance close to you maximum engagement distances. Than it’s not a problem.

Also we have a whole online course covering these services and other rangefinder, how to zero, and employ them. Laser Rangefinder Employment Course
Thank you, Chris. I might get some time to do that one day.
 
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