Coup De Grâce, New Action from American Rifle Company, $899 WOW!

#7,201
Well lok
Baron23 said:
Continuing the subject of anti-seize on CDG barrel tenons, I find its always informative to actually ask the company who makes the product. From ARC (underlining added by me):

"Good morning,​
​
It is 100% necessary to use anti-seize when installing a barrel on one of our actions. We have always used copper based anti seize, the image below is the exact type we've used in our complete rifles. 100 ft-lbs is our recommended torque. Hope this helps!"​
Click to expand...
Well looky there! I guess that should suffice anyone asking. I never even thought about what type of anti seize, I was just proud of myself for using anti seize lol
 
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#7,202
I’ve got a nit-picky question for the metallurgists on the board. I understand the need for anti-seize, 100%. Would there be a problem using a silicone/ceramic brake lubricant in place of the copper anti-seize that ARC recommends? Only reason I ask is that’s what I have already in my garage
 
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#7,203
The D said:
I’ve got a nit-picky question for the metallurgists on the board. I understand the need for anti-seize, 100%. Would there be a problem using a silicone/ceramic brake lubricant in place of the copper anti-seize that ARC recommends? Only reason I ask is that’s what I have already in my garage
Click to expand...

Silicone is typically not a recommended lubricant for threaded metal to metal joints, partially because silicone grease often has a poor film strength and it gets forced out of the high pressure areas of the joint. Save the silicone ceramic brake lube for your next brake job.

What really does the job in antiseize is the suspended solids; typically graphite flakes along with nickel, copper, aluminum, zinc, moly disulfide, etc, depending on the version of anti seize you use.

Go pick up some actual anti seize, it's meant for threaded joints. My preference is for nickel based given the bare stainless barrel threads, I use loctite LB771, although it's something you might have to order. You can probably pick up a small tube of permatex nickel anti seize at your local auto store for about 5 bucks; it has more graphite and lower nickel content than loctite LB771, but it's still plenty adequate for barrel to action threads.
 
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#7,204
kcsmith said:
My only gripe in less than 50rds of use is the bolt to body clearance . Clearance is there for a reason , but i still dont like it. However, its nothing that cant be fixed with a couple welds and a surface grinder.

For the price of what some people pay for knives and backpacks, its an incredible deal.
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How much is there? Is there a "bump" on the back of the bolt like the Mausingfield?
 
#7,205
LVLAaron said:
How much is there? Is there a "bump" on the back of the bolt like the Mausingfield?
Click to expand...
No. The bolt runs quite smoothly and like most every other action, takes just a bit to find how to run the best and smoothly. And like all those other actions, it’s not everybody’s cup of tea. Viva la competition and choices.

I still shoot my roughly 15 yo Stiller TAC30AW action really well, even though it’s loose and has many tens of thousands of rounds through it plus untold dry fire. Yet I do not experience a hang, hitch or any other issue while running the bolt. It about technique.
 
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#7,206
Baron23 said:
Continuing the subject of anti-seize on CDG barrel tenons, I find its always informative to actually ask the company who makes the product. From ARC (underlining added by me):

"Good morning,​
​
It is 100% necessary to use anti-seize when installing a barrel on one of our actions. We have always used copper based anti seize, the image below is the exact type we've used in our complete rifles. 100 ft-lbs is our recommended torque. Hope this helps!"​

View attachment 8447482
Click to expand...
Damn I used nickel based. 😑😢
 
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#7,207
I'm annoyed because I could swear anti-seize wasn't specifically stated me the one pager that came with the action and just to used lots 'o grease.

Granted, I slathered that bastard with lots of high end synthetic grease....
 
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#7,212
First ten shots through my rifle at 100 yds. I bore sighted to get on paper for shot 1, then dialed windage, didn’t touch elevation. Pretty stoked with how this turned out

IMG_3024.jpeg
 
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#7,213
Anyone else miss this post. Really good information that's been out there for a month and I had never seen it.
www.snipershide.com

Properly Testing a Coned Breech for Extractor Drag - Coup owners read this

Folks, Recently we've had a number of guys wanting us to rework prefits for Coups due to the extractor dragging on the bolt face. In May alone it was 5 barrels, 3 of which came from the same member. Those 3 barrels were on the date bubble where it's possible they might have been cut prior to...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com
 
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#7,215
My CDG LW is the first action I’ve had with a trigger hanger. Installed a TT Special tonight and adjusted per Ted’s video…wow. Incredible how much effect that had on bolt lift. I can definitely see someone being turned off by the bolt lift with a bare action, think I’ve read a couple complaints in this thread, install a trigger!
 
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#7,217
Eurodriver said:
View attachment 8451401View attachment 8451402


As near as makes no difference 9.5lbs suppressed with an Alaskan Ti and loaded with 300WSM. It feels like a toy, and really isn’t terrible to shoot.

Many thanks to Bella at ARC and Russell at Crossroads Precision.
Click to expand...

Looks awesome! Mine is progressing but not done yet. Looks like the parallax setting may be a bit tough to read? One of my only complaints with ARC rings is the thickness up top.
 
#7,218
ChrisAU said:
Looks awesome! Mine is progressing but not done yet. Looks like the parallax setting may be a bit tough to read? One of my only complaints with ARC rings is the thickness up top.
Click to expand...

Coupled with the fact I don't have a full length rail so I had to move the scope closer to the back ring for proper eye relief you are absolutely right - it is difficult to see the parallax on that scope from the shooting position.

And by difficult, I mean you can't see it at all.
 
#7,219
Eurodriver said:
Coupled with the fact I don't have a full length rail so I had to move the scope closer to the back ring for proper eye relief you are absolutely right - it is difficult to see the parallax on that scope from the shooting position.

And by difficult, I mean you can't see it at all.
Click to expand...

Well I suppose operating it while looking through the scope is the correct way anyway so not too big of a deal. Awesome build!
 
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#7,221
Anyone received there light weight version yet? If so any issues mounting scope? Looks like your rings are going in the one and only spot.
 
#7,226
I’ve got a long action put together and a nx8 4-32 on the way to replace my vortex, anyone with the same setup mind telling what height rings they are using? I’d like to use the nightforce ultra lite rings or the Warne mountain techs. Thanks.
 

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#7,227
Kernal1984 said:
I’ve got a long action put together and a nx8 4-32 on the way to replace my vortex, anyone with the same setup mind telling what height rings they are using? I’d like to use the nightforce ultra lite rings or the Warne mountain techs. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Teach a man how to fish:

www.snipershide.com

Rifle Scopes - Ring Height Info - How to Measure Correctly

Guys, Lately, on average of about 1 per day, I have seen quite a few posts (mostly from newbies) regarding questions about what ring height should be used. They usually request pics for comparison. For all new guys, there is a systematic way of calculating ring height that doesn't require more...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com
 
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#7,229
lash said:
Teach a man how to fish:

www.snipershide.com

Rifle Scopes - Ring Height Info - How to Measure Correctly

Guys, Lately, on average of about 1 per day, I have seen quite a few posts (mostly from newbies) regarding questions about what ring height should be used. They usually request pics for comparison. For all new guys, there is a systematic way of calculating ring height that doesn't require more...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com
Click to expand...
I guess height was part of the question but really the interference between to front portion of the rail and the bell of the scope was the bigger part of the question. The NX8 is pretty short compared to what I’m used to.

I do appreciate the link though, thanks.
 
#7,230
Kernal1984 said:
I guess height was part of the question but really the interference between to front portion of the rail and the bell of the scope was the bigger part of the question. The NX8 is pretty short compared to what I’m used to.

I do appreciate the link though, thanks.
Click to expand...
Well that’s exactly part of the height question, now isn’t it? You find that out the same way. Actually read the first post and do the math, using the top of the rail as the part you have to clear.
 
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#7,234
CEO10KaDAY said:
Yeah the bolt was working fine. Idk though, it was harder than HELL to push the release lever in. I finally got it, but had to apply a level of force 3 standard deviations above the mean.

I’ve had the bolt out a hundred times, was never as hard as that
Click to expand...
Ever pierce or pop any primers? Those little bits always settle in the worst places.
 
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#7,235
Unbolt the action. Bottom side of the action has access to the heat treated retention set screws for the ejector and bolt stop; run them out, clean everything up, lube, reinstall.

I had a bolt stop that was sticky from the get go. Took some measurements and ARC actually sent me a different one that functions freely.
 
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#7,245
Baron23 said:
Dunno, got a Prtof SS MTU in 6.5 CM with 2,800 rounds on it and it’s still holding speed and it’s still shooting great groups.
Click to expand...
2800 really isn't a lot for a 6.5 creed but that's a fine start. I wonder if you're the outlier or I am. only got 1100 out of a dasher and was told that was normal. Haven't been back.
still, glad more people are making prefits for good actions. apparently I'm the outlier having two excellent gunsmiths within an hour drive that could either one do my small jobs over a weekend.
 
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#7,246
Cody S said:
2800 really isn't a lot for a 6.5 creed but that's a fine start. I wonder if you're the outlier or I am.
Click to expand...
Dunno, mate. Lots of folks say 2,500 is about it but that’s prob from PRS/NRL type competitors shooting longer strings of fire and maybe hotter hand loads.

This barrel shoots very good and it’s always been fast compared to others. Dunno why that is either.

@AccuSol-ERN , gunsmith at Altus, and somebody whose services I’ve used and who I absolutely trust, has said on this board that he sees more curved bores with Proof than some other name brands. But that’s just one data point and I don’t know if he was referring to CF or SS. Perhaps that makes a diff.

Cheers
 
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#7,249
So much comes into play with "barrel life".......from differing opinion of "shot out" to maintenance procedures through the life of the barrel.

Proof makes a decent barrel. In my experience their bores sizes and straightness typically have more variability than others, so they are not my go to recommendation.

All else being equal, in my experience and data gathering "straighter" barrels are less finicky to load for and typically shoot everything well so long as the ammo is consistent from shot to shot. I believe straighter bores tend to have smaller amplitude vibrations that effect bullet release. This is why tuners or bullet seating test show more improvement on barrels that whip more.

I like to think of it with a highly exaggerated example. A water hose left hanging at 90degrees.....turn on high pressure water......straightens out to compensate for the pressure. Now take a hose held out straight.....turn on high pressure water......neglible movement to compensate for the pressure.

Ern
 
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