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Accuracy International Picture Thread

AI might know.

I vaguely recall @Scott Seigmund explaining the compound was used in order to create uniformity between the action and the chassis back in the day AI was leaving tool marks on the actions. Also explaining that the application process is safety hazard to the operators on the assembly line (gasses/fumes ect).

Maybe he'll chime in. Bottom line is the solution to an action coming loose is more torque on the bolts.
 
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The stuff between the action on the AX/AT/MC would have a hard time keeping the gun together with no action screws fastened under a fair amount of shooting.

People keep calling it bonding but its a carry over from the days when the actions were not as flat as they are today and they needed to keep flatness consistent. I.e the four brass washers to create a gap and fill.

Its not glue and it wont keep the gun together under real use if the screws are not tight.

Lil bit of heat and it peels off like blue tape.
Do you normally shoot in 250°F weather? Because I've never had an AI fall apart unless it was coming out of an oven.

I use Devcon 2-part Aluminum putty #10610. In my research I found that was what I believed to be what AI used on their production rifles, but I certainly could be wrong. I tried the Devcon plastic steel epoxy and it sucked.
 
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Do you normally shoot in 250°F weather? Because I've never had an AI fall apart unless it was coming out of an oven.
Not at all what i implied so for the guys in the back that just showed up.

By itself, I don't believe its meant to keep the gun together under a heavy use which is what most people here think its meant to do.

Does it add a thin layer of extra holding strength specially considering there is zero draft between the mating entities?

Sure.
 
I mean...I don't think anyone believes the bonding is intended to allow the rifle to perform normally without action screws, but I know for a fact it won't come apart on its own.

In my opinion the true benefit of the bonding agent (which IS glue), is to prevent zero shift in the event of a hard knock or rifle drop. An inherent weakness of a flat-bottom action on a flat-faced chassis is lateral impacts can shift the action in the chassis worse that a round action in a v-block.

I shot the best 100-yd group of my life with an unbonded action in my chassis, but then when I beat on the barrel with a mallet the zero shifted. When the action is bonded I didn't have any issues with zero shift.
 
So I ran my AXSR through K&M's 4 day precision rifle course this past week :)

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First of all, if you're on the fence about taking a course at K&M ... it was absolutely worth the price of admission and K&M is by far the nicest and most well equipped range I've ever shot at. The cadre consisted of highly experienced instructors from all over the precision rifle spectrum (hunting, PRS, military, etc.) and included Shannon Kay himself.

I went full yolo and ran the AXSR with a 20" 1:10 .308 barrel slinging 175SMK at a super slow ~2500fps. I figured that shooting a boat anchor 308 would amplify any mistakes and therefore make for better training and it sure did! I think I averaged around a 65 to 70% hit rate and especially past 800 things got pretty challenging when the wind picked up. But I did manage to clean a run at 600/700/800/900/1000 and any misses within my powerband of 800 yards could be traced to some sort of mistake on my end. With my AXSR weighing in at 22lbs I was for the most part able to call my shots and see both my misses and impacts.

We cycled through almost every style of long range shooting ... they took us out to 1200 yards from prone on day 1 (this was sheer luck but I did connect at least once on 1200 with the 308) and as the class progressed we worked our way to on the clock PRS-style stages that required building multiple shooting positions.

Targets varied from things like dueling plate racks at 300 and 500 to 12" movers at 500, hostage rescue targets in busses and a variety of game silhouettes anywhere from 300 to 800 yards out. You basically get to shoot every single range and target at K&M. You are shooting for about 6 to 8 hours a day with instructors spotting for you. They constantly adjust and reaffirm your fundamentals.

What I really enjoyed about K&M's approach is their focus on teaching you how to troubleshoot your own training. You walk out of there with a very clear and repeatable training methodology that you can immediately start repping out at your home range as well. The instructors were polite, professional, and always focused on the students.

The AXSR hammered but I did once more experience the forend coming loose about 300 rounds into the class. Last time this happened I put vibratite but that seemed to have cleared off entirely so this time I blue locktited it in at 55inch/lbs. If it comes loose a 4th time AI is getting a call. There was another AXSR in the class that didn't have any issues so I'm suspecting the threads in my forend aren't holding torque properly for whatever reason.

The class did really shake out my gear and I learned a ton about what I like and will continue using and what I will never touch again. For the AXSR the first thing I did when I got home today was to bump up my ring height to 1.5" because at my previous ring height the cheek rest bottomed out and I found myself hunting for a sight picture during class in certain positions. I had to really lean into the rifle to get eyes on targets which in turn introduced unneeded muscle tension into the rifle. I was also fighting my rear bag from prone a LOT because I brought a git-lite filled pintsize gamechanger. Once I switched to a heavy sand schmedium things significantly improved.

I was expecting more issues with the AXSR 308 mags but they ended up running pretty flawlessly now that they're tuned. In 4 days of non-stop shooting I only had a single issue with a double feed (which I'm fairly certain was induced by me).

Overall 10/10 ... would definitely attend again.
A very nice setup, and finally a visual on an AI in combination with the Vortex Razor :) Just for my reference, why are You using the red dot mounted on top of the scope ? Easy target acquisition ?
 
I have read throughout this thread that while 49lbs is the spec for the barrel, many have found 55lbs to be the sweet spot for returning to zero.

If I do not intend to change out my barrel until it is shot out, will 49lbs suffice?

-Stan
 
I have read throughout this thread that while 49lbs is the spec for the barrel, many have found 55lbs to be the sweet spot for returning to zero.

If I do not intend to change out my barrel until it is shot out, will 49lbs suffice?

-Stan
You can test it for yourself, but if it's shooting good at 49 in-lbs there's probably no reason to change.

I never had an issue with 49 in-lbs personally. I had a theory that for the bonded rifles (AT/AX) that had issues with 49 and needed to go up to 55 or even 65 in-lbs, that the barrel clamping feature had excess epoxy on it that prevented it from moving freely. This was shown on a rifle or two that had been de-bonded to be put into an aftermarket chassis. Obviously this wouldn't apply to non-bonded rifles.
 
I have read throughout this thread that while 49lbs is the spec for the barrel, many have found 55lbs to be the sweet spot for returning to zero.

If I do not intend to change out my barrel until it is shot out, will 49lbs suffice?

-Stan
I agree with @samb300. Just shoot your zeroed rifle, loosen the barrel, unscrew it a bit and screw it in, and then try 49lbs. Shoot again and see where the shots go. Try other torque values if 49 is no bueno.

Do this a few times and you’ll know the answer for your gun.

Personally, I follow the process here:

Except on my AX, I am lazy and don’t take off the handguard or wipe the mating surface on the front of the action (can’t reach it with handguard on). My AT is easier in this way.

I use 60lbs. I haven’t tested it. I should. So take my advice for what it’s worth.

I think installing the barrel when the gun is upright is easier anyway. Doing it consistently the same way might/might not be important. I fall into the former camp.
 
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With the ATX checking torque is much more involved then a standard chassis as you have to take it apart each time
I feel this. After my May match, I decided to rip the rifle apart and clean it. Last weekend the sky decided to open up and was caught out in it for a few hours. Finally unpacked and found that many hardware screws had rusted. Quite a few buttpad/stock and forend bridge screws were pretty rough. Its a chore to rip it down and put it back together. Luckily the sonic cleaner helped with a light coat of oil.
 
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Are most AI shooters using torque wrenches calibrated well enough to distinguish between 49 and 55 ?

That’s basically 10% and a quick google search said most torque wrenches are advertised +- 2-6%
I use the Fix It Stick 49 in-lb limiter, which yes, is listed as being +/- 6% (46 - 52 in-lb)
 
I agree with @samb300. Just shoot your zeroed rifle, loosen the barrel, unscrew it a bit and screw it in, and then try 49lbs. Shoot again and see where the shots go. Try other torque values if 49 is no bueno.

Do this a few times and you’ll know the answer for your gun.

Personally, I follow the process here:

Except on my AX, I am lazy and don’t take off the handguard or wipe the mating surface on the front of the action (can’t reach it with handguard on). My AT is easier in this way.

I use 60lbs. I haven’t tested it. I should. So take my advice for what it’s worth.

I think installing the barrel when the gun is upright is easier anyway. Doing it consistently the same way might/might not be important. I fall into the former camp.
^^^

I use 65 and the AT and AXMC produce slightly better groups at that setting. Nothing to lose sleep over though.
 
Are most AI shooters using torque wrenches calibrated well enough to distinguish between 49 and 55 ?

That’s basically 10% and a quick google search said most torque wrenches are advertised +- 2-6%
I use my Snap-On torque wrench which I calibrate annually. In the field I use torque limiters that are not calibrated
 
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Are most AI shooters using torque wrenches calibrated well enough to distinguish between 49 and 55 ?

That’s basically 10% and a quick google search said most torque wrenches are advertised +- 2-6%
I just bought the 55 inch lbs limiter from fix it sticks. Plan to start using just that on the AI’s. Currently I use a FAT wrench.

I use one specific fat wrench for barrels currently. If I put the red line underneath the 50 it’s 50 inch lbs. If on the top it’s 55 inch lbs. That’s not to say it’s exactly that number but if I tighten at that number with that wrench every time and it works then at least I have a spot to return to every time. Maybe it’s only accurate to 10% I don’t know. But I do know if I put 55 lbs on it I’ll be probably 50-60” lbs. If I try 49” lbs maybe I only put 44” lbs.

I know the gun shoots good between 50-60 so I’m ok with that margin of error. I’d rather be there than mid 40’s.

There’s many “what if’s” when it comes to torque wrench’s. It could fail anytime and the same torque wrench sitting next to it may be 6-10% off vs the identical one you’re using. So either check calibration Frequently or at very least use the same tool or witness marks to help eliminate variables
 
This thread now has me thinking about how much I torque my barrels on my AT and AXMC. I currently use a FAT wrench specifically just for that and set it at 50 inch lbs. now I am thinking about getting the 49 in/lbs or 55 in/lbs for my fix it sticks. Given the possible inherent error in the system is it better to go with the 55 over the recommended 49 by AI? I haven’t noticed any issues but I haven’t really tested anything either. I do remove my barrels for cleaning most of the time just because I think it ends up being easier.
 
I feel this. After my May match, I decided to rip the rifle apart and clean it. Last weekend the sky decided to open up and was caught out in it for a few hours. Finally unpacked and found that many hardware screws had rusted. Quite a few buttpad/stock and forend bridge screws were pretty rough. It’s a chore to rip it down and put it back together. Luckily the sonic cleaner helped with a light coat of oil.
I ripped mine down and loctite it in about 15 minutes. Had it all back together and ready to rock.

My gripes are I don’t want to have to do that just to check the action screws. It’s a PITA and you’ll definitely want to confirm zero after. I’m beginning load developing with mine currently so I’m ok with doing this to ensure it stays put and would rather make changes now than after finding a load.

Pending I keep the gun if my screws start rusting I’ll get the OD green paint out and turn that elite sand into elite grass in a few minutes. Not problem solved but for sure not caring about a rusty screw head after that

I’ll be perfectly honest here and may get flamed for it.

After owning 3 AI models now 2014 AT, 2022 ATX and 2013 AXMC I’m learning a lot and developing preferences

To me the old school bonded AI like the AW/AT/AX are my preference. I really want to like this ATX and it’s definitely setup more for “gaming” like prs and modern styles of shooting. But I don’t shoot prs. For my style the AW/AT thumbhole are the holy grail

I think the ATX personally is kind of a crap weapon. (This is where you start flinging poo)

There’s should be no reason why a new model AI should be backwards from is predecessor. The ATX to me feels like someone sat down and came up with a solution to guys wanting a $7000 rifle for $3500. Maybe the new XC will be the ticket. Two more action screws and maybe torque to 53” lbs like the AXSR

There’s no reason the ATX chassis should ever need the action screws checked regularly. There no excuses whatsoever for why the bolt lift is so stiff on the ATX. This is a gun that’s designed to be shot of props. For that use the forend vs the AX is a winner. The trigger is an absolute winner. Then you take it right in the shorts on the follow up shot. That bolt lift (I’m not whining just pointing it out) destroys the whole system on follow up shots

I sold my AXMC due to ergonomics. But I feel I could put up with ergonomics now and do have a touch of remorse wishing I had the AXMC yet

If this ATX turns into an absolute hammer and the blue loctite holds (which I’m sure it will) this will be a great rifle. The minute I loose confidence in it I’ll sell it and get another AT or AXMC. Or build a custom like an impact/MDT/trigger tech setup.

I love love love my AT. I just wish AI would stay in the lane of being military/LE rifles that are available to civilians. Not venturing into gaming guns. They went for the prs market. In my opinion came up short. Then eliminate the rifles they’ve been known for.

Now you have the option of the ATXC and AXSR. Which you bring to shot show saying the action is so much better. Then leave the fucking bolt out of it. Hello!!!!! AI? You increased the price to $7000 then left out the one thing everyone wants to know if it’s changed. Piss poor marketing.

They tell you it’s better. Leave the bolt out. Then tell you the current ATX is machined so well it doesn’t need bonding. Then they add 2 more screws to the action in the next gen

Rant over. But AI,

We want

1) AT with a thumbhole
2) ATXC MIL/LE version
3) AXSR
4) ATM with thumbhole (300/338 variants)

Make those four models available and go back to whatever the difference is between my 14 AT and 22 ATX and make the bolt feel like that again
 
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I hope everyone now worries that whenever they have a single flier, maybe it's because they didn't torque their quick loc screw to exactly 54.3 in-lbs using a calibrated Snap On digital torque wrench.

"It's definitely not YOU, it's THE SCREW"

Funny, I've never worried about action screws or quick loc screw torque...
 
I hope everyone now worries that whenever they have a single flier, maybe it's because they didn't torque their quick loc screw to exactly 54.3 in-lbs using a calibrated Snap On digital torque wrench.

"It's definitely not YOU, it's THE SCREW"

Funny, I've never worried about action screws or quick loc screw torque...
The quickloc isn’t as big of a deal. But like what happened to the guy above. Paying/traveling to a match or hunt/range day whatever can take a sour turn if the action screws come loose. His isn’t the first time we’ve seen the issue with them either so it’s worth the discussion on how to address I think

To be fair many have had the same thing happen on MPA and MDT chassis as well. Not just an AI thing obviously but wasn’t an issue with the bonded guns. The kicker is what it takes to check the torque on the ATX screws during a match

You must remember,

This is the Hide

We buy super expensive stuff, then identify a problem that occurs in 1/1000 samples, make a big deal of it, find a way to modify it, everyone buys or makes the correction

Then we sell it two days later and start the process over with something else
 
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The quickloc isn’t as big of a deal. But like what happened to the guy above. Paying/traveling to a match or hunt/range day whatever can take a sour turn if the action screws come loose. His isn’t the first time we’ve seen the issue with them either so it’s worth the discussion on how to address I think

To be fair many have had the same thing happen on MPA and MDT chassis as well. Not just an AI thing obviously but wasn’t an issue with the bonded guns. The kicker is what it takes to check the torque on the ATX screws during a match

You must remember,

This is the Hide

We buy super expensive stuff, then identify a problem that occurs in 1/1000 samples, make a big deal of it, find a way to modify it, everyone buys or makes the correction

Then we sell it two days later and start the process over with something else
Agreed, and any time a gear issue affects a match result it's frustrating.

I wonder why the current action screws are only 35 in-lb. I use 55 in-lb for all 4 action screws on the AT/AX/AO, which has the small diameter rear screws (near the trigger guard) and standard diameter screws at the recoil lug.
 
I ripped mine down and loctite it in about 15 minutes. Had it all back together and ready to rock.

My gripes are I don’t want to have to do that just to check the action screws. It’s a PITA and you’ll definitely want to confirm zero after. I’m beginning load developing with mine currently so I’m ok with doing this to ensure it stays put and would rather make changes now than after finding a load.

Pending I keep the gun if my screws start rusting I’ll get the OD green paint out and turn that elite sand into elite grass in a few minutes. Not problem solved but for sure not caring about a rusty screw head after that

I’ll be perfectly honest here and may get flamed for it.

After owning 3 AI models now 2014 AT, 2022 ATX and 2013 AXMC I’m learning a lot and developing preferences

To me the old school bonded AI like the AW/AT/AX are my preference. I really want to like this ATX and it’s definitely setup more for “gaming” like prs and modern styles of shooting. But I don’t shoot prs. For my style the AW/AT thumbhole are the holy grail

I think the ATX personally is kind of a crap weapon. (This is where you start flinging poo)

There’s should be no reason why a new model AI should be backwards from is predecessor. The ATX to me feels like someone sat down and came up with a solution to guys wanting a $7000 rifle for $3500. Maybe the new XC bonded will be the ticket but that’s only LE/MIL available to my knowledge

There’s no reason the ATX chassis should ever need the action screws checked regularly. There no excuses whatsoever for why the bolt lift is so stiff on the ATX. This is a gun that’s designed to be shot of props. For that use the forend vs the AX is a winner. The trigger is an absolute winner. Then you take it right in the shorts on the follow up shot. That bolt lift (I’m not whining just pointing it out) destroys the whole system on follow up shots

I sold my AXMC due to ergonomics. But I feel I could put up with ergonomics now and do have a touch of remorse wishing I had the AXMC yet

If this ATX turns into an absolute hammer and the blue loctite holds (which I’m sure it will) this will be a great rifle. The minute I loose confidence in it I’ll sell it and get another AT or AXMC. Or build a custom like an impact/MDT/trigger tech setup.

I love love love my AT. I just wish AI would stay in the lane of being military/LE rifles that are available to civilians. Not venturing into gaming guns. They went for the prs market. In my opinion came up short. Then eliminate the rifles they’ve been known for.

Now you have the option of the ATXC and AXSR. Which you bring to shot show saying the action is so much better. Then leave the fucking bolt out of it. Hello!!!!! AI? You increased the price to $7000 then left out the one thing everyone wants to know if it’s changed. Piss poor marketing.

They tell you it’s better. Leave the bolt out. Then tell you the current ATX is machined so well it doesn’t need bonding. Then they add 2 more screws to the action and bond the rifles meant for hard use like the MIL/LE version.

Rant over. But AI,

We want

1) AT with a thumbhole
2) ATXC MIL/LE version
3) AXSR in MIL/LE version
4) ATM with thumbhole (300/338 variants)

Make those three models available and go back to whatever the difference is between my 14 AT and 22 ATX and make the bolt feel like that again
What would an AXSR Mil/LE even be though?
 
Agreed, and any time a gear issue affects a match result it's frustrating.

I wonder why the current action screws are only 35 in-lb. I use 55 in-lb for all 4 action screws on the AT/AX/AO, which has the small diameter rear screws (near the trigger guard) and standard diameter screws at the recoil lug.
My guess would be the chassis design more than the action. But just a guess. Maybe 55 messes up the chassis. Otherwise should be the same screws?

Throw it in a vision/folding thumbhole/bonded? 😎👍
 
You've heard that new mil rifle variants are bonded?
I thought it was discussed here before about them being bonded. But I can’t find it. I’m probably incorrect in that statement

But to his question I think it be cool if they bonded the ATXC and AXSR. Just peace of mind if nothing else.

Has anyone ever seen the AXSR action screws loosen up?

Just looking at the pdf it seems these have an extra screw but also torqued to 53 inch lbs vs 35 on the ATX

Maybe the 4 screw ATX can be torqued to 53 inch lbs as well?? Someone from AI could probably answer why it’s 35 lbs as I’m sure it was left that low for a reason
 
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Both action screws and epoxy bonding were meant to be a failsafe method one backing the other. The epoxy was Magic 2 part grey.
I took my Accuracy International Armourers course at the original AI factory from Neal Braisher.
Blue loctite and proper torque will take care of your AT-X
Thank you sir
 
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Thanks

I didn't know this existed in electronic form. However, p10 says 49 in-pounds and p49 says 53 in-pounds. Which is it? Do you use blue Loctite?

My AXMC manual doesn't talk about action screws...probably because it is bonded.
I don’t have an AXSR

Just found it for you as I looked it up earlier to
 
I hope everyone now worries that whenever they have a single flier, maybe it's because they didn't torque their quick loc screw to exactly 54.3 in-lbs using a calibrated Snap On digital torque wrench.

"It's definitely not YOU, it's THE SCREW"

Funny, I've never worried about action screws or quick loc screw torque...
I see what you are saying, although you could have grown up balls and not hide behind sarcasm; we get it.

At 800 rds my rear action screw was loose. When i purchased the rifle new i assumed it was good to go and kept shooting it. First give away was the barrel tilting towards left ever so slightly. I thought the tq was off and no it was not. I had to take the rifle apart to find out the read left action screw was loose. I did tq everything with 243 locktite applied and shot the rifle next day and had the best group i ever had with it. I never made a fuss about it till it was mentioned here. I am cool with it and will move on.

There is nothing wrong about being tedious. A tedious person can also be a phenomenal shooter simultaneously.

Hafejd has very valid points with at-x including the bolt and overall. Some i do not agree but it is a good conversation.

(I love my at-x)
 
I see what you are saying, although you could have grown up balls and not hide behind sarcasm; we get it.

At 800 rds my rear action screw was loose. When i purchased the rifle new i assumed it was good to go and kept shooting it. First give away was the barrel tilting towards left ever so slightly. I thought the tq was off and no it was not. I had to take the rifle apart to find out the read left action screw was loose. I did tq everything with 243 locktite applied and shot the rifle next day and had the best group i ever had with it. I never made a fuss about it till it was mentioned here. I am cool with it and will move on.

There is nothing wrong about being tedious. A tedious person can also be a phenomenal shooter simultaneously.

Hafejd has very valid points with at-x including the bolt and overall. Some i do not agree but it is a good conversation.

(I love my at-x)
Who said I was being sarcastic? Clearly I struck a nerve with you and your Snap On torque wrenches.

If you’d like to have a very serious and very grown up conversation on AI stuff let me know, otherwise I’ll be over here not worrying about the torque on my bonded rifle.
 
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I’m just here to watch torque limiters kiss under the tripod shelf.
D593A4AC-2A36-4AAD-B896-3B9283B92C9F.jpeg
 
Who said I was being sarcastic? Clearly I struck a nerve with you and your Snap On torque wrenches.

If you’d like to have a very serious and very grown up conversation on AI stuff let me know, otherwise I’ll be over here not worrying about the torque on my bonded rifle.
lol