Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
... Hours and hours of sanding, pillar bedded it, and it's a bit off for being sold as a "95% inletted stock". I would say I got a 75% inletted stock. But, the forend drifts to the left. Can't take anymore off without it being noticeable, so I have a tiny point of contact on the first inch of the stock against the barrel. Confirmed with a piece of thin cardboard. Found this out as I've been relieving it so much. The cutout for the floor plate and trigger guard is also off. I had to shift it over and fill it in.
Just curious... with all of this drifting and contacting and fitting and refitting and relieving and shifting, going on, to fit your barreled action, trigger group and bottom metal... to this stock... were you using 'inletting black' as an aide??
So here is the start of my attempt to make an accurate build
I have 90% stock and the brass insert, an old 60s 40X action with the short bolt shroud, double sear tombstone trigger, a NOS Redfield scope mount, a set of NOS Redfield 1" rings with the 4 slotted screws, the correct end plate, the only thing is that the barrel is a 22" Hart but it shoots a ragged hole so I might keep it a while till I decide to rebarrel. Still looking for that magic gen 1 scope to have re-anodized in order to make this a perfect period correct gen 1 M40 model. I went with the 40X since some have speculated that some of the first were 40Xs. The only other things beside the barrel that I need to correct, if I feel like doing so, is the internal magazine came with the cut aways and the bottom metal. I had it personalized and sitting around for a build for myself one day. So this is going to be the build I use it on. Any insight or corrections from you guys would be appreciated
Thanks
This should help in finding a correct Redfield scope for the period the M40 was introduced. I got this from a '66 catalog
Reticle type followed by item number.
3-9x Variable
4P CCH 112013
Fine Crosshair 112000
Med. Crosshair 112001
Heavy Crosshair 112002
Post w./crosshair 112003
3 to 1 Dot 112004
3-9x Variable Accu-Range
4P CCH 112014
Fine Crosshair 112006
Med. Crosshair 112007
Heavy Crosshair 112008
Post w./crosshair 112009
3 to 1 Dot 112010
4P CCH is a duplex reticle. 3 to 1 dot is a is a crosshair reticle with a dot at the intersection.
Jake:
Looking good. I have the same scope. I don't care about the reticle as well. The Marines didn't use the tombstone for shit.
Some 95% stock, huh? Mine was a mess, they actually sent me another one. But I pillar bedded the other, it's friggin' tight. And it came out nice. I'm gonna hold on to the other one and fit it when I'm ready... Or build another rifle. Lol. Lord know I got plenty of scopes!!Getting close. I got the stock yesterday from Silver Hill. I have probably 6 hours in it so far. The base I got from eBay for like $15 and the scope was another eBay find. It doesn't have the range finder reticle but I don't care. The rifle is a 2006ish PSS which has a 26" barrel but who cares.
My finger's a twitch'n... There's no box, so how do I know what I'm gett'n.
I'm a scrounger, by training, which means, by and large, that the boxes are long-long gone and I'm looking for physical characteristics and markings. The Gen.I and Gen.II scopes are serial numbered, but where do these numbers, i.e., 112006, 112007, etc., appear, outside of a period catalog?
How do they help us, for example, determine if an Accurange has a medium and not a fine crosshair? For myself (as well as other lurkers- yeah, you're out there,) I'm always looking for any bit of information that can make my searches more productive and my money well spent.
As always, thanks, in advance.
Started out as a $450 Remington 700 ADL Varmint. Here's how it finished up..
Is that the Badger mount?
Some 95% stock, huh? Mine was a mess, they actually sent me another one. But I pillar bedded the other, it's friggin' tight. And it came out nice. I'm gonna hold on to the other one and fit it when I'm ready... Or build another rifle. Lol. Lord know I got plenty of scopes!!
I had the same floor plate. Stripped off the paint and and sanded it smooth, anodized it black. Looks like the originals. It's painted, btw. Get the 513t swivels from Sarco for $10 a piece. You can get slot head receiver screws from Brownells. You're also a bit "proud" by the ejection port, or whatever it's called. This was my issue.
... My only question is the distance between stadia wires represent 18".(??)
[Is that at 3x at 100 yards? The lowest number on the tombstone scale is 200 yards. So, at what magnification at 200 yards = 18"? This can be done by eyeballing at 200 yards.]
This should help in finding a correct Redfield scope for the period the M40 was introduced. I got this from a '66 catalog
Reticle type followed by item number.
3-9x Variable
4P CCH 112013
Fine Crosshair 112000
Med. Crosshair 112001
Heavy Crosshair 112002
Post w./crosshair 112003
3 to 1 Dot 112004
3-9x Variable Accu-Range
4P CCH 112014
Fine Crosshair 112006
Med. Crosshair 112007
Heavy Crosshair 112008
Post w./crosshair 112009
3 to 1 Dot 112010
4P CCH is a duplex reticle. 3 to 1 dot is a is a crosshair reticle with a dot at the intersection.
Hmm, eye ball it?
Stadia wires represent 6" @100 yards 9x. It only reps 18" based on range, magnification, and target size. Know your weapon system.
Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
And use as an opportunity it to gauge the actual distance between your stadia wires and record it under one of your turret caps.Take something that is 18" and set it out at two hundred yards. At what magnification does the 18" fit between the two stadia wires? The tombstone should be showing 200 as well.
1. For this scope 1 MOA = 1 inch @100 yards 9x. So 100 yards 9x it is 150" across the entire range of the reticle. In other words, the field of view is 150" at 100 yards 9x. So, from the middle horizontal crosshair to the top of the reticle is 75". From the middle horizontal crosshair to the first stadia wire is 44". The distance between the stadia wires is 6". From the middle horizontal crosshair to top or second stadia wire is 50". From the top or second stadia wire to the top reticle is 25" So, 44" + 6" + 25" = 75". Leaving at a set power, like 9x, you can apply the MOA rule to the distance the retile lines represent at any known distance. You can even get more complex by factoring in the subtensions of the wires. Example, fine crosshair wires represent .25" @100 yards 9x.
2. The stadia wires are set up for a limited application. That is, the variable power Accu-Range or Accu-Trac system with the tombstone ranging. And they don't always represent 18". 18" is a basis for the average deer. It could be different for other game. For example, it could represent 24" for Elk. That is 1/3 more than 18". So, you square up your elk between the stadia wires and the tombstone reads 450 yards. Add 1/3 to that and the range is really approx. 600 yards. The average sheep is 22.5" I don't even want to estimate that. You can see why this ranging system is sort of joke. Your deer could be 20" rather than 18" and you will be off on your distance to target using this ranging system. Marines realized this and just held over. The average range in Vietnam was about 300 yards. With a rifle zeroed at 500 yards they would just aim at about crotch level at that distance. As you can imagine, you can get even more complex or accurate by factoring in the load you are using.
I have some gun books for these rifles. These books are pre M40A1. These are tube data books pArt1 1966 i believe. The are for sAle or trade.
How'd ya'll go about contouring the buttstock to the buttplate? My stock is round 1/8" wider all around my butt plate.
I should have taken woodshop in school.
How'd ya'll go about contouring the buttstock to the buttplate? My stock is round 1/8" wider all around my butt plate.
I should have taken woodshop in school.
He is showing what is easy to find within the current supply trail.
Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2