M40 Build Guide

#651
Bolt_Trash said:
Good photo. It's always the little details that get you and having a photo, to review, is a great advantage and visual tool. Thanks!






I think using Cerakote for the Bolt Shroud, Bolt (body & knob) and the Bottom Metal, the safety and the sling swivels, is the best/easiest way to achieve the requisite "Semi-Gloss" and "Gloss" black finishes on these parts.

Now, for determining what part, is what type of finish, is the fun part.

1.) The Bottom Metal is a Semi-Gloss and in that, there is no dispute.

2.) Bolt Body: Semi-Gloss ?

3.) Bolt Shroud: Gloss ?

4.) Bolt Handle & Knob: Gloss? (Somewhere, along the line, from photographs, I've got it in my head that the parts, to the rear of the reciever (the Bolt Shroud, Bolt Handle and Bolt Knob) are a "Gloss" black finish, but the Bolt Body is Semi-Gloss.)

5.) Safety Lever: Semi-Gloss?

6.) Sling Swivels: Parkerized? Semi-Gloss Black?

I'd like to find out, part-by-part, for sure.

While we're on it, S.H. member "budiceale," who invited me to this site, for my build, used Cerakote's "Armorer's Black," for his own build and was very happy with the results.

As far as Parkerizing, a/k/a "messy... stuff from the past ?" I think, being from the past and being semi-messy, myself (by my own admission,) Parkerizing, for this build, is the way to go, for the action, barrel and Redfield mount (optional, of course.):cool:

I do like the Cerakote finishes and used it for a recent .416 Rigby DGR build. You don't want to have to take this stuff off though, if you happen to change your mind later (not recommended.)




Yeah, well... this is important stuff!
Click to expand...
I bought a new production aluminum trigger guard/floor plate was bead blasted and painted black. Stripped it down yesterday and polished. Looks like brushed steel now. I'm going to anodize it a nice smooth, semigloss black.
The barrel and receiver look an almost zinc parked. This is a Dicks ADL Varmint. I'm convinced it's probably a painted finish. Duracoat Park or Tactical Grey/Green mixed with Tactical Black (and some flattening agent) would do nicely. Applied with an air brush. Looks good, though. I'm going to leave it. I'm going to strip down the bolt body and hot blue it.
Epoxy remover was used on the trigger guard assembly. It definitely was some type of epoxy based paint, a real bitch to get off.
 
#653
Mounts & means-to-an-end....

para1505 said:
Ok, a JR base that is for 721 725 700 long action has the squared off corners if you take and cut some off the rear of the base and drill a new screw hole would work wouldn't it?
Click to expand...

Your options (otherwise known as a means-to-an-end [of the torture])

1.)The 721 mount:
a.) Has the busy/billboard 'script' patent info. v. the simple Redfield logo, which can be altered.
b.) It has the squared front profile, like the 511153/40X.
c.) It is too long and that can be altered.
d.) And, you can drill a new hole, with the proper flat bottom countersink.
e.) You can do all of these with the proper equipment and it will fit.

-OR-

2.) You can diligently hunt for an original Redfield 700SA (correct & documented.)

-OR-

3.) You can purchase the Redfield 700-SA (notice the dash) mount that has a single upper-case 'R' stamp, that is already the proper length and has the proper mounting holes, the 700SA clipped corners, but (typically) has a 'matte' finish.'

a.) For a 511153/40X look:
1.) TIG weld the clipped corners and re-shape to a 'square-ish' contour.
2.) Remove single upper case 'R' and get Redfield logo engraved.
3.) Refinish in hot-blue or parkerizing, at your option.

b.) For a 700SA look:
1. Remove single upper case 'R' and get Redfield logo engraved.
2. Refinish in hot-blue or parkerizing, at your option.

Personally, I'm not into self-torture (if I can help it, anyway. So #2 is for me,) but, if you are and it sure looks like torture, but I guess, it's the good kind... (?)

Hope this helps...
 
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#654
The M40 BOLT and it's proper finishes... To be, or not to be...

I'll limit the/my question(s), to just one (1) component topic at a time.

The M40 Bolt (Complete Assembly):

I went back to look at the original M40's photos that I've collected to use as 'guides' for my build. I referenced them in an earlier post. Below, are a few with my observations. What say the people who have been down this road already?

In the first photo, the entire complete bolt assembly (Shroud-Handle/Knob-Body,) appears to be a Polished 'Gloss-Black.'

IMG_0933-1_zpsf6f30160.jpg


In this second photo, the Shroud appears to be a (polished) 'High-Gloss' Black and the Bolt Handle a 'Semi-Gloss' Black.

M401969Original-5_zps71adc3ce.jpg


In this third photo, the Shroud appears to be a (polished) 'High-Gloss' Black and the Handle/Knob and the body are a 'Semi-Gloss' Black.

M401969Original-2_zps169785ff.jpg



This isn't a build with a lot of parts, but I think the finishes are a very important aspect. I'm willing to compromise on the method that is used to replicate the 'type' of finish, but not specific 'color' (excepting receiver & barrel [the green thing]) or 'finish.'

I look forward to reading your comments.
 
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#655
para1505 said:
Ok, a JR base that is for 721 725 700 long action has the squared off corners if you take and cut some off the rear of the base and drill a new screw hole would work wouldn't it?
Click to expand...

Yes. As I said in a previous post, the 40X base is a little thicker, but nobody will know.

Bolt_Trash said:
Now, for determining what part, is what type of finish, is the fun part.

1.) The Bottom Metal is a Semi-Gloss and in that, there is no dispute.

2.) Bolt Body: Semi-Gloss ?

3.) Bolt Shroud: Gloss ?

4.) Bolt Handle & Knob: Gloss? (Somewhere, along the line, from photographs, I've got it in my head that the parts, to the rear of the reciever (the Bolt Shroud, Bolt Handle and Bolt Knob) are a "Gloss" black finish, but the Bolt Body is Semi-Gloss.)

5.) Safety Lever: Semi-Gloss?

6.) Sling Swivels: Parkerized? Semi-Gloss Black?
Click to expand...

Only the barrel and receiver was parkerized. Base, scope rings, bottom metal, bolt shroud, bolt, bolt handle, safety lever, swivels was factory finish. So yes, I would say semi-gloss.

Here is some pictures of M40 #6257207 and #6257259. 100% original, USMC presentation M40 rifles, assembled but never used in combat. Featured in Peter Senich's book.

This is how they left the armory. Never used, so there is no fading, discoloration of the finish.

If you want to build a correct M40, this is the way to go. Both are 2nd gen.

I have a lot more pictures of #6257207. Ask if you want to see specific parts.








 
#658
mjh30 said:
Safety is incorrect, was under the impression these presentation rifles were rebuilds.
Click to expand...

The 'square' safety thumb lever was rounded-off by Remington somewhere late in 69. So it makes sense that these 2nd gen rifles have the round lever. Any M40 built or refurb after the cut-off date should have a round lever.

EDIT: By the way, 6257259 sold for 36300$. Original sling was included and stamped 1977. The rifle was authenticated by the CMP and armorers from the USMC. Of course, we can speculate about its authenticity but the CMP is usually a reliable source.

 
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#660
Mesca, the cmp rifle #6257259 is not a Marine gun, its an Air Force rifle, delivered in 1969 that's according to the DOD registry, a presentation gun similar to this one I believe, just not sure if the USMC or CMP awarded these rifles at Camp Perry
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-bolt-action-rifles/53800-m40-build-guide.html
As for colors, I was under the impression, barreled action parked, flat black on bolt,(black oxide), flat black on bottom metal, satin black on bolt shroud, well as for the rings I suppose blued.
Okie theres a picture of the flat crown in the above link
 
#661
mjh30 said:
Safety is incorrect, was under the impression these presentation rifles were rebuilds.
Click to expand...

For those that don't know the above rifle, the one that is behind the glass 5 posted above this one, was used by Chuck Mawhinney in Vietnam. The rifle was found in 30 years after the war still in service in Oki. They took it out of service and rebuilt it as an M40, the way he carried it in Vietnam. Im sure during the 30 years of use that the safety broke and was replaced with a round safety. Not all rifles from Vietnam came back with the flat safeties.
 
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#662
MescaBug said:
... Base, scope rings, bottom metal, bolt shroud, bolt, bolt handle, safety lever, swivels was factory finish. So yes, I would say semi-gloss.

Here is some pictures of M40 #6257207 and #6257259. 100% original, USMC presentation M40 rifles, assembled but never used in combat. Featured in Peter Senich's book.

This is how they left the armory. Never used, so there is no fading, discoloration of the finish. If you want to build a correct M40, this is the way to go. Both are 2nd gen.

I have a lot more pictures of #6257207. Ask if you want to see specific parts.
Click to expand...

MescaBug,

It's the photographs that keep me on this search for answers (just this one, actually!) Take this photo (from your selection,) for instance. Taken in natural light - no flash to influence and/or adulterate the subjects - in which - the bolt knob has a 'decidedly' 'polished/gloss' finish to it, in direct comparison to the trigger guard and bottom metal, which is immediately adjacent to it and a 'definitively and undisputed' 'semi-gloss' finish.

_DSC0395_zps1ebc3472.jpg


Gen.I with a 700SA mount in a Redfield factory 'hot-blued' finish :

M401969Original-1_zpsb0e43aa7.jpg


Bolt bottom:

M401969Original-7_zpsc01a8698.jpg



It's photos like these, above, of originals, that just drive me NUTS! So, is it possible that the bolt body, bolt handle/knob and bolt shroud were (originally) a 'gloss' finish and everything else (minus receiver, trigger guard/bottom metal a semi-gloss?

While I'm on Photobucket, here's a couple of an original 'muzzle crown' and another of a shot taken of the top of the barrel, in the stock, at the tip of the forend.

M401969Original-12_zps1d7d6d5c.jpg


M401969Original-13_zps9af32273.jpg



Ideally, there's just enough clearance in the stock channel, to free-float the barrel, from just forward of the recoil lug.

M401969Original-11_zps1315c414.jpg
 
#664
songdogslayer said:
So I am lost but I have a few questions I have a old six digit 700 with the first three digits being 148XXX and square safety and double sear. Would this be a perfect candidate for this type of build?
Click to expand...

It would absolutely be a great candidate for an M40 build or even M40a1 if you wanted to go that route as well.
 
#665
The one I examined at the NRA museum was nondescript and appeared in accordance with the original order details. That is barrel and receiver dull park'd military finish. Aluminum was anodized dull black. Bolt, black dull oxide finish. Stock had dull oil finish. That is what they got when they opened up the Protecto case. A dull looking M700 rifle before any repair parts or a Marine armorer got a hold of it in the field or at Camp Pendleton itself. Looking at what was originally a dull aluminum finish 40 years after is very difficult.
 
#668
If the M40 is the way you want to go this thread has a ton of information in it. Also if you wanted to do more research you should definitely get Peter Senich book called the "One Round War USMC Scout Snipers in Vietnam." It has a wealth of information about the M40, M70, and M40a1. Let us know if we can be of any help.
 
#670
MescaBug said:
The 'square' safety thumb lever was rounded-off by Remington somewhere late in 69. So it makes sense that these 2nd gen rifles have the round lever. Any M40 built or refurb after the cut-off date should have a round lever.
Click to expand...

Just a footnote to MescaBug's post, the 1,000-Remington 2006 Limited Edition SSA actions were all produced with a round safety lever.
 
#671
Culpeper said:
Why are these Protecto cases so hard to find. I mean they were manufacturing them up to about 10 years ago.
Click to expand...

There's a natural law, that I'm sure explains why, but this is just the kind of item, that you stumble across, when you're not looking and find somewhere you'd least expect to see one. It's just the way of things.

After reading about a member scoring one in a pawn shop, I now ask the dealers if they have any 'hard rifle cases,' every time I'm in one.

A blind squirrel finds a nut, only because he's looking for one. Good luck!!
 
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#672
Knocked off the cheap looking texture paint, polished out the aluminum (it's a very cheap alloy, mind you) and anodized it black (as best to could...it's really, really a garbage alloy) and polished with beeswax/lanolin. It went into the sulfuric acid electrolyte shiny, but all the impure metals mixed in dulled out. I have to imagine there is some zinc in there. No ferrous metals, though.
If I would have known, I would have just gloss Duracoated it. No matter, the ano is a much better protective layer.

null_zps909def0d.jpg


null_zps164e9552.jpg
 
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#678
songdogslayer said:
So I am lost but I have a few questions I have a old six digit 700 with the first three digits being 148XXX and square safety and double sear. Would this be a perfect candidate for this type of build?
Click to expand...

Yes, but that serial number is too early for a 'correct' M40. Just so know, they start at 168XXX.

But having the dual-sear and square safety, its an excellent candidate.
 
#682
Nice rifle Toki!

Looking back at some pictures of early M40 with the green scope, I am tempted to have my scope anodized black satin (2nd gen) instead. The original finish and patina is so hard to get right. Satin black is a lot more forgiving.

One thing that's often overlooked is the sling. Not a critical item you might say, but all M40 were issued with a sling.

I didnt read back through the entire thread, but IIRC, both the canvas-cotton type and nylon slings were used. Pre-69 was canvas. I think we can agree that both types are correct. If for any reason, one lost its sling, a nylon type might have been issues as a replacement.

For those interested, I have a few era-correct nylon slings in stock. Some new, some have seen action. They have the correct parkerized buckles.

PM for details.

 
#683
Yeah, got 1/2 dozen canvas slings from my Garands. Also have a
black satin gen2. Need to order swivels. Just installed pillars last night and bedded it this am.

I actually have a pretty good repop sling I bought at LRB the last time I was there.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 
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#685
That scope is serialized numbered for the M40 SSA. It's a sad fact that they only go with those rifles. The trick is to get them to sell you the serial number on the rifle to match the scope's. The Badger mounts are a true replica of the M40 mounts and rings though. The history behind the scope is that the color wasn't exactly correct and by the time all was said and done the rifles were sold without the scope, mounts and rings as originally hoped for.
 
#686
Scooter64 said:
stock looks good
I see that the receiver's bottom ledge of the ejection port is proud of the stock, are the receiver screws tighten downed already? If so, will you be lowering the receiver into the stock to make the receiver and the stock surface a little more flush?
Click to expand...

Yeah, alot of problems with getting this stock to fit. I've got the receive down a bit lower now, but the floor plate cut out was about 1/16" off to the left, and the fore end/barrel channel is a bit off. Been sanding and carving for days, had to pillar bed.
 
#687
tokiwartooth said:
Yeah, alot of problems with getting this stock to fit. I've got the receive down a bit lower now, but the floor plate cut out was about 1/16" off to the left, and the fore end/barrel channel is a bit off. Been sanding and carving for days, had to pillar bed.
Click to expand...

You're really invested, in this stock. Pre-inlets don't (shouldn't, may be a better word) require near this much work. You're way past 5%- as in; out the back door, through the yard, over the back fence, cut through the field, wade across the creek, bully through the hedgerow, march up and over the nearest hill and taking a seat on a cross-country bus... that kind of 'way past.'

I'd call the maker, demand a new (and thoroughly checked-out) replacement (just for the aggravation,) and then... take the first one and lay it on the table of the nearest band saw and make tomato stakes out of it. You'll feel better about the whole experience.
 
#688
Recognize this butt plate... ?

Of course you do, except this one is on an original Remington 740.

pix076004686_zps355c8781.jpg


I think they used this same butt plate and screws on the early 742's also. I just wanted to identify the proper screws (and a source,) for this butt plate.
 
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#691
Culpeper said:
Iron Brigade Armory has original butt plates. Iron Brigade Armory
Click to expand...

-Jake- said:
except they're $90! :eek:

I got one on eBay for $11 shipped.
Click to expand...


The butt plate is fairly easy to find (reasonable, that may be another matter,) it's identifying the proper screws that I was interested in. The wrong screws, i.e. Mod. 721/722, may hold the plate, in place, but they are ill-fitting and look like crap. I don't know if Remington made these screws for a certain period of time and/or for a variety of models during that period, but I do know that both the plate and the screws, for it, are consistent with the Mod. 740 and maybe the 742, as well.
 
#692
Rob is sending me another one... I have a quite a number of hours in this one having relieved it, re-inletted it, pillar and bedded it.

On a good note, took the rifle out today. Took it through a break in. Shot the following:

1. Hornady 168, loaded with 41.5 grains 4895, 2.81 col. Shot sub MOA .75 @ 100 yards.
2. SMK 175s, (M118LR copies) loaded 42 grains of 4064, 2.82 col, could not get better than 2-3" groups @ 100 yds.
3. M80, mixed cases resized for M14 by a reputable brass guy. I could not get a single round to even chamber. I know the col on these are also well within spec. Bolt would not close.

I checked the headspace on the rifle when I bought it. All within spec. Closes on .308 go, open on no go. If anything, I though I would have had issues with the M118LR due to the bullet ogive.

Here are some blurry, crappy pics....
Stock didn't get the exact finish type I wanted, so I'm doing a couple of coats on BLO on top of the Raw Tung. I'm also going to finish it up with Tom's 1/3 mix. The wood is soooo dry it just soaked up so many coats. Bedding and adjusting the inletting of the stock AFTER I started finishing it didn't help either, so I need to do a bit more finishing work on it. I don't know. I may strip it all down again and start fresh.



First install attempt... Receiver way too proud of stock. It's flush now.

 
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#694
gregv said:
I hear that a lot of guys use Wichita swivels on their M40 clones. I didn't think that Wichita started making their swivels until the 70's. I've seen a picture, in Senich's book, of an original M40 with what looks like Remington 513T type swivels installed. The 513T swivels that I have are 1&1/2 ins. wide (inside). On the early M40's, were the wood screw type used on both the front and rear? Were they 1&1/4 or 1&1/2 in. ?

Thanks, Greg V
NewImage-2.jpg
Click to expand...

If anyone is interested.....

Sarco and Numrich have the Remington 513T swivels for $10 a piece.
Wichita Arms has the Wichitas for $25 + $5 shipping a piece. Just fill out the contact form on the website and Tim McNally will get back to you. I think Iron Brigade charges substantially more for them.
 
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#696
Looks like an M700, go figure. That be it. Notice the burl in the middle of stock. Marines didn't care about aesthetics that much. It just needed to work. They quickly figured out it was not up to the rigors of humping it in the bush. The next generation was upgraded to a synthetic stock as we all know. Eventually, they got rid of the hunting scope as well. Nevertheless, the M40 has character and character counts.

BTW, that video was an important addition to this thread. Nice job!
 
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#697
Culpeper said:
Looks like an M700, go figure. That be it. Notice the burl in the middle of stock. Marines didn't care about aesthetics that much. It just needed to work. They quickly figured out it was not up to the rigors of humping it in the bush. The next generation was upgraded to a synthetic stock as we all know. Eventually, they got rid of the hunting scope as well. Nevertheless, the M40 has character and character counts.

BTW, that video was an important addition to this thread. Nice job!
Click to expand...

Scope is olive colored. Not the OD Green Caswell sells. Interesting...
 
#698
Beautiful rifle.

Notice how the scope is 'squeezed' between the rings. Kinda odd... I dont see any reason why they would mount it like that.

tokiwartooth said:
Scope is olive colored. Not the OD Green Caswell sells. Interesting...
Click to expand...

Thats the patina which is almost impossible to get correct. I dont know if its the gloss black undercoat thats gives that 'purple-ish' tint to it. But after some years and exposure, thats how they turned.
 
#699
MescaBug said:
Beautiful rifle.

Notice how the scope is 'squeezed' between the rings. Kinda odd... I dont see any reason why they would mount it like that.



Thats the patina which is almost impossible to get correct. I dont know if its the gloss black undercoat thats gives that 'purple-ish' tint to it. But after some years and exposure, thats how they turned.
Click to expand...
If those were anodized green, there is no gloss black undercoat. When you anodize, you need bare, degreased, desmutted aluminum. You can't ano over existing ano.
It's a result of the dyes they used back then. It would be great to know what they used. The problem is the dyes have come such a long way since then. I wouldn't be surprised if they used clothing dye, or the dye used for uniforms. Think of the color wheel. Green is blue and yellow, so the blue must break down and leave the yellow (gold) hue. The "patina" is due to the different alloys that Redfield used. If you look at the eyepiece, it has a different finish. This also happens when I've been anodizing. The eyepieces seem to corrode a bit faster, along with the caps and turret housing,
 
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