NEW From Zermatt Arms - RimX Actions

#903
Just got shipping confirmation from XLR, envy pro is on the way. TT diamond 2 stage is pre-ordered, coming up on the 8 week mark for my keystone barreled action, these next few weeks are going to be rough!
 
#904
I have been waiting for my keystone order 7 weeks and was hoping that I would get it at the 8 week mark lol I guess I have a few more weeks of waiting ahead. Did he give you an updated estimate when yours would be ready?
I have a TT Diamond, MPA ESR chassis and a Tract Toric ELR waiting for the ba.
 
#905
Swaim13 said:
I have been waiting for my keystone order 7 weeks and was hoping that I would get it at the 8 week mark lol I guess I have a few more weeks of waiting ahead. Did he give you an updated estimate when yours would be ready?
I have a TT Diamond, MPA ESR chassis and a Tract Toric ELR waiting for the ba.
Click to expand...
No updated time estimate, tomorrow will be 8 weeks. Zermatt had a 8-12 week lead time, if I'm not mistaken, ordered directly through them. I know John has been plenty busy over at Keystone cranking them out as they arrive
 
#906
Not even 3 weeks later

Keystone
Kreiger
20" Heavy Varmint
6 pounds 5 ounces
 

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#909
Impressive that auto match and pistol match were near the top, only Midas + out performed them. I was surprised that CenterX didn't perform better. Nice shooting!
 
#916
Can someone post or pm me a picture of their bolt face. Dropped my bolt on the concrete floor in my reloading room and it won’t eject rounds or catch the round while chambering a round most of the time now.
 
#926
reubenski said:
Ya, not the angle for bolt nose clearance. The radius around the rim of the chamber on the breech. If a person was to just run a reamer in, they'd have a sharp chamber edge. A Smith will radius that just slightly so a case or bullet isn't sliding over a sharp edge. The RimX requires a little more than normal based on the way the round enters the chamber and slides up the bolt face under the fixed extractor. The rear part of the bullet and case wall slides over the 6 o'clock chamber edge and forces the case head up the bolt face into a full horizontal attitude. Id recommend if someone is chambering a RimX for the first time they have an action present to test feeding. If you don't have enough chamfer it will feel like the round is binding as it enters the chamber. Because it is. Also, you have to be really diligent in setting your mag height correctly before you chamber a single round. Resist the urge to run a couple rounds right off the bat. Carefully watch the first couple rounds you chamber to ensure the rim is being captured under the extractor and not snapping over the rim. 3 out 4 guys I know locally and some of our shooting team guys have all buggered up their extractors and tensioners in the first 100rds. It doesn't take much to damage them. You tell them to ensure they have their mag height set properly and they're like, "...ya, ya,ya....right, right, Tlace the extractor and tensioner and Zermatt is obviously easy to work with, but it's also completely avoidable.

Have fun with your new rifle! Show us some pics when you get it finished!
Click to expand...

Thanks, Yeah that's why Wade is doing the build, he'll have all the components to work with.
Local shooter showed up at the last NRL22 match with a RimX in some kind of chassis, had some feeding and extraction problems. Set up is key.
 
#927
reubenski said:
Ya, not the angle for bolt nose clearance. The radius around the rim of the chamber on the breech. If a person was to just run a reamer in, they'd have a sharp chamber edge. A Smith will radius that just slightly so a case or bullet isn't sliding over a sharp edge. The RimX requires a little more than normal based on the way the round enters the chamber and slides up the bolt face under the fixed extractor. The rear part of the bullet and case wall slides over the 6 o'clock chamber edge and forces the case head up the bolt face into a full horizontal attitude. Id recommend if someone is chambering a RimX for the first time they have an action present to test feeding. If you don't have enough chamfer it will feel like the round is binding as it enters the chamber. Because it is. Also, you have to be really diligent in setting your mag height correctly before you chamber a single round. Resist the urge to run a couple rounds right off the bat. Carefully watch the first couple rounds you chamber to ensure the rim is being captured under the extractor and not snapping over the rim. 3 out 4 guys I know locally and some of our shooting team guys have all buggered up their extractors and tensioners in the first 100rds. It doesn't take much to damage them. You tell them to ensure they have their mag height set properly and they're like, "...ya, ya,ya....right, right, right..." and then a week later they're asking you for a picture of your bolt face. It's a simple and easy fix to replace the extractor and tensioner and Zermatt is obviously easy to work with, but it's also completely avoidable.

Have fun with your new rifle! Show us some pics when you get it finished!
Click to expand...
After breaking my extractor and getting a new extractor and tensioner. I felt like it still wasn’t sliding up under the extractor like it should, even after playing with the height on the mag. Switching back and forth with the tensioners it still wasn’t quite doing like it should. My buddy that had one said that his tensioner was hitting on the case body, so I looked at both of mine and both were ever so slightly touching the case. I then took a smooth sharping stone and barely took just a bit off the tip of the tensioner. After running several rounds through all my mags it seems to running really good now and throwing the brass a bit further than it was before. I’ve got a match this weekend and I’ll see how it runs.
 
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#928
reubenski said:
Ya, not the angle for bolt nose clearance. The radius around the rim of the chamber on the breech. If a person was to just run a reamer in, they'd have a sharp chamber edge. A Smith will radius that just slightly so a case or bullet isn't sliding over a sharp edge. The RimX requires a little more than normal based on the way the round enters the chamber and slides up the bolt face under the fixed extractor. The rear part of the bullet and case wall slides over the 6 o'clock chamber edge and forces the case head up the bolt face into a full horizontal attitude. Id recommend if someone is chambering a RimX for the first time they have an action present to test feeding. If you don't have enough chamfer it will feel like the round is binding as it enters the chamber. Because it is. Also, you have to be really diligent in setting your mag height correctly before you chamber a single round. Resist the urge to run a couple rounds right off the bat. Carefully watch the first couple rounds you chamber to ensure the rim is being captured under the extractor and not snapping over the rim. 3 out 4 guys I know locally and some of our shooting team guys have all buggered up their extractors and tensioners in the first 100rds. It doesn't take much to damage them. You tell them to ensure they have their mag height set properly and they're like, "...ya, ya,ya....right, right, right..." and then a week later they're asking you for a picture of your bolt face. It's a simple and easy fix to replace the extractor and tensioner and Zermatt is obviously easy to work with, but it's also completely avoidable.

Have fun with your new rifle! Show us some pics when you get it finished!
Click to expand...
This post should be pinned in big bold letters.
 
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#929
drglock said:
After breaking my extractor and getting a new extractor and tensioner. I felt like it still wasn’t sliding up under the extractor like it should, even after playing with the height on the mag. Switching back and forth with the tensioners it still wasn’t quite doing like it should. My buddy that had one said that his tensioner was hitting on the case body, so I looked at both of mine and both were ever so slightly touching the case. I then took a smooth sharping stone and barely took just a bit off the tip of the tensioner. After running several rounds through all my mags it seems to running really good now and throwing the brass a bit further than it was before. I’ve got a match this weekend and I’ll see how it runs.
Click to expand...
That’s a great tip actually.
 
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#931
reubenski said:
Ya, not the angle for bolt nose clearance. The radius around the rim of the chamber on the breech. If a person was to just run a reamer in, they'd have a sharp chamber edge. A Smith will radius that just slightly so a case or bullet isn't sliding over a sharp edge. The RimX requires a little more than normal based on the way the round enters the chamber and slides up the bolt face under the fixed extractor. The rear part of the bullet and case wall slides over the 6 o'clock chamber edge and forces the case head up the bolt face into a full horizontal attitude. Id recommend if someone is chambering a RimX for the first time they have an action present to test feeding. If you don't have enough chamfer it will feel like the round is binding as it enters the chamber. Because it is. Also, you have to be really diligent in setting your mag height correctly before you chamber a single round. Resist the urge to run a couple rounds right off the bat. Carefully watch the first couple rounds you chamber to ensure the rim is being captured under the extractor and not snapping over the rim. 3 out 4 guys I know locally and some of our shooting team guys have all buggered up their extractors and tensioners in the first 100rds. It doesn't take much to damage them. You tell them to ensure they have their mag height set properly and they're like, "...ya, ya,ya....right, right, right..." and then a week later they're asking you for a picture of your bolt face. It's a simple and easy fix to replace the extractor and tensioner and Zermatt is obviously easy to work with, but it's also completely avoidable.

Have fun with your new rifle! Show us some pics when you get it finished!
Click to expand...

Can someone post pics, hard for me to figure out, will be getting my RimX soon and installing in a AI Chassis and I don't want to mess it up.
 
#932
reubenski said:
As far as the radius on the chamber edge it's hard to comparatively make out by eye. But here's some pics.
View attachment 7384076
View attachment 7384077
View attachment 7384080

Here's a link to a short video of a RimX picking up a round properly. I'm running the bolt very slowly and lightly so it looks rough. Its not but if you know what you're looking for it depicts all the minute points where the round is exiting the feed lips, entering the chamber, shifting horizontal in between the chamber and bolt face...

Click to expand...



Thanks
 
#933
reubenski said:
Ya, not the angle for bolt nose clearance. The radius around the rim of the chamber on the breech. If a person was to just run a reamer in, they'd have a sharp chamber edge. A Smith will radius that just slightly so a case or bullet isn't sliding over a sharp edge. The RimX requires a little more than normal based on the way the round enters the chamber and slides up the bolt face under the fixed extractor. The rear part of the bullet and case wall slides over the 6 o'clock chamber edge and forces the case head up the bolt face into a full horizontal attitude. Id recommend if someone is chambering a RimX for the first time they have an action present to test feeding. If you don't have enough chamfer it will feel like the round is binding as it enters the chamber. Because it is. Also, you have to be really diligent in setting your mag height correctly before you chamber a single round. Resist the urge to run a couple rounds right off the bat. Carefully watch the first couple rounds you chamber to ensure the rim is being captured under the extractor and not snapping over the rim. 3 out 4 guys I know locally and some of our shooting team guys have all buggered up their extractors and tensioners in the first 100rds. It doesn't take much to damage them. You tell them to ensure they have their mag height set properly and they're like, "...ya, ya,ya....right, right, right..." and then a week later they're asking you for a picture of your bolt face. It's a simple and easy fix to replace the extractor and tensioner and Zermatt is obviously easy to work with, but it's also completely avoidable.

Have fun with your new rifle! Show us some pics when you get it finished!
Click to expand...
Love to have known this weeks ago, going to have to work backwards. Thanks for this.

Jeff
 
#934
Finally got out to shoot this R50 Orkan sent me to test in the Benchmark with my chamber. I screwed the Benchmark back on and put 1 wet patch down the barrel and then dry patched it out.

I took it to the range and put 15rd of SK Match RM through it to re-zero @ 50yd since I had to swap barrels, remove scope and had it previously zero @ 25yd with the previous barrel.. Shot the 15rd to get it zero @ 50yd then I shot this 10x5. I shot them in the order marked 1-10 on the target....

You will see below on the 100yd target, I took a picture before shooting the 10x5 of R50 showing the zeroing bullet holes @ 100yd with CenterX as I didnt want to waste the R50 zeroing so I could get a full 10x5. I then covered the 2 that were in the 10x5 with the 2 red dots before shooting the 10x5 with the R50. @ 100yd.

In conclusion, the ammo shot really good. It was 93F out, 82% humidity and dead calm. It was HOT. Not the tightest RimX groups of the 5 barrels I shot, but not off by much either. It was the best 50yd 10x5, 6x5, and group size of everything I shot through the Benchmark RimX to date at just over 0.2" with an impressive 0.042" group and many in the .1's... At 100yd, it shot really well in the .6"s both 10x5 and 6x5 which is pretty darn consistent with smallest group measuring 0.321"... Not bad at all.


50yds

10x5: 0.264"
6x5: 0.216"
Best Group: 0.042"









100yds

10x5: 0.698"
6x5: 0.655"
Best Group: 0.321"









 
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#935
padom said:
In conclusion, the ammo shot really good. It was 93F out, 82% humidity and dead calm. It was HOT. Not the tightest RimX groups of the 5 barrels I shot, but not off by much either. It was the best 50yd 10x5, 6x5, and group size of everything I shot through the Benchmark RimX to date at just over 0.2" with an impressive 0.042" group and many in the .1's... At 100yd, it shot really well in the .6"s both 10x5 and 6x5 which is pretty darn consistent with smallest group measuring 0.321"... Not bad at all.


50yds

10x5: 0.264"
6x5: 0.216"
Best Group: 0.042"





Click to expand...


Hi Padom, Please don't take this question the wrong way, just trying to understand your measurements. Are the measurements center to center? Group #6 at 50 yards looks like center to center is about 2 bullet diameters but measured at 0.179" which is less than one bullet diameter.
 
#936
stevenc23 said:
Hi Padom, Please don't take this question the wrong way, just trying to understand your measurements. Are the measurements center to center? Group #6 at 50 yards looks like center to center is at least 2 bullet diameters but measured at 0.179" which is less than one bullet diameter.
Click to expand...

All measurements are the same way OnTarget scores CTC (center to center) and how every 22LR ive posted is scored. Outside to outside minus .223.. Now, some will argue the bullet holes are smaller than .223, which is true. But thats how JBM Ballistics, my Kestrel, OnTarget software app, all measure and reference 22LR bullet diameter so I subtract .223. Ive been consistent in the way Ive measured every target. Hope that answers your question. We arent competing for Gold medals here or winning prizes so do what you want with the info.

The size of the actual 22LR bullet hole in paper varies, depending on the type of paper, used also. Example, I am measuring these bullet holes in this specific paper with a caliper at 0.117". Just for your reference
 
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#940
Installed a replacement tensioner, spring and ejector - was having weak ejection issues 10% of the times.
New kit from ZA absolutely fixed the issue, even tried "oversized" CCI semi auto and slow loading/ejecting with the rifle laying 90 deg on its side to see if I could get it to fail and couldn't get it to fail. It launches the brass like an overgassed 14.5 AR
 
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#945
My RimX with an 18" Proof. It is accurate, but not where I would like. I've read through most of the thread multiple times. So what would be my best option for a replacement barrel, maybe a Bartlein, what chamber, who can supply it? Really like the action once I got the mags adjusted. Also have a Vudoo. Thanks guys.

20200603_081313.jpg
 
#946
elkbow said:
My RimX with an 18" Proof. It is accurate, but not where I would like. I've read through most of the thread multiple times. So what would be my best option for a replacement barrel, maybe a Bartlein, what chamber, who can supply it? Really like the action once I got the mags adjusted. Also have a Vudoo. Thanks guys.

View attachment 7387161
Click to expand...
Which do you like more? The vudoo or the rimx?
 
#947
padom said:
Had my son out shooting the RimX today with the Lilja barrel screwed on @ 50yd with SK Pistol Match Special. Really good results for that cheap ammo and a 10yr old shooting prone. Was pretty darn surprised with the ammo and him. He shoots better than most of you. :LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:


Click to expand...



My 10 y/o daughter shoots better off hand than I do. She shoots bullfrogs off hand at 30yds and shoots them in the head with peep sights, very seldom misses, LOL. Dresses and cleans her own and don't want any help! :LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:
 
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#948
Swaim13 said:
Which do you like more? The vudoo or the rimx?
Click to expand...

While you didn't ask me, I'll throw my $0.02 in. I also own both, have 5 barrels for the RimX and same exact 5 for the Vudoo.... they are both very accurate. I prefer the RimX because of how smooth the bolt cycles. The RimX bolt cycles so damn smooth and effortless compared to my Vudoo.
 
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#949
padom said:
While you didn't ask me, I'll throw my $0.02 in. I also own both, have 5 barrels for the RimX and same exact 5 for the Vudoo.... they are both very accurate. I prefer the RimX because of how smooth the bolt cycles. The RimX bolt cycles so damn smooth and effortless compared to my Vudoo.
Click to expand...

I prefer the RimX because my Vudoo bolt isn't smooth, it drags. I've run it dry, slightly lubed per their instructions, etc. It seems to work best with a thin cost of grease rather than oil.

The RimX mags are so nice also.
 
#950
padom said:
While you didn't ask me, I'll throw my $0.02 in. I also own both, have 5 barrels for the RimX and same exact 5 for the Vudoo.... they are both very accurate. I prefer the RimX because of how smooth the bolt cycles. The RimX bolt cycles so damn smooth and effortless compared to my Vudoo.
Click to expand...
I'm currently experiencing the opposite, my Vudoo runs like butter, My Rim-X is sticky.
 
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