My firing pin doesn't pop off that simply. I must need my tongue on the left side of mouth or some other special alignment. LOL. I don't want to force it so I just keep fiddling with it and, like magic, it slides right off with no effort.
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I just got my RimX barreled action tonight and have been playing with it. I'm also finding it difficult to remove firing pin. I've watched both orkan video and the video Ray from Zermatt posted on here the other day, both guys make it look effortless. The one video mentions pulling away and up, I've been fiddling pulling each way, wiggling, no success. Any pro tips out there?My firing pin doesn't pop off that simply. I must need my tongue on the left side of mouth or some other special alignment. LOL. I don't want to force it so I just keep fiddling with it and, like magic, it slides right off with no effort.
Just one, honestly. It's been a couple of different lots of SK standard plus. I should be receiving 1000 rounds of center x within the next couple of days, I'll give that a go. I've only put about 50 rounds down the pipe, I didn't want to keep forcing something that didnt want to go. It feels to me that the round isn't being fully seated in the bolt and is feeding into the chamber at too steep an angle. Having said that, no extraction issues as of yet. Hopefully the new tensioner will give me a better idea if that's the issue, or I need further adjustment to the magazine.I've shot about 350 rounds of CCI SV through mine with a PVA pre-fit. It feeds great but closes fairly hard. I figured the chamber might be on the short side but the bullet doesn't looked overly engraved. I've ordered a bunch of different ammunition to test. I tried different ones and there's a dramatic difference in bolt close between them.
How many different types of ammo have you tried?
I know this is predominantly about 22lr RimX so hopefully none will be offended, but any word on if or when the 17 WSM RimX will be available? Has much been done in the way of testing a RimX built 17 WSM and has anyone come up with a chamber design that works well with the mediocre level 17 WSM ammo?
We will not be releasing any rifles in any caliber.I am also interested in a 17WSM and have not heard when RimX will be releasing their rifle in 17WSM.
Thanks for the good info! Deffinately felt smoother with no tensioner, I may try to take a little more off the tensioner since Ray at Zermatt was kind enough to send a new one my way. For reference, how much different/harder should the bolt close feel compared to cycling unloaded?This sounds like the round binding between the bolt face and the chamber as the rim tries to slide up the bolt face. Part of the hesitation of the round righting itself fully horizontal is pushing the tensioner back but with a sharp edge on the back of the chamber the round seems to get in a three point bind.
Remove your current tensioner and see if the hard chamber completely goes away.
IMO the bolt should feel the same silky smooth when loading a round for the most part as when running it empty. The only tension or resistance I feel when the running the bolt empty is a very slight resistance on dropping the bolt handle down. If you know what you're feeling, you'll notice the cocking of the firing pin/ cocking piece on the sear. There's just a bit of cocking. I timed mine and left just a bit of cocking for reliable ignition. Otherwise the bolt will slide forward on its own when you tilt the barrel down.
The only time I have malfunctions now after some low grade tuning of the tensioner and barrel chamfer is when I'm maneuvering the rifle in and around props with a mag in,, bolt back and inertia causes the bolt to slide forward and strip a round out of the mag. It will just get the tip of the round in the chamber as the rim still hasn't slid fully up the bolt face. I will pull the bolt handle back to chamber the next round properly once I mount the rifle in position, not realizing I have a half loaded round. I will then cause a double feed. This has happened to me 4 times now. Its always on a fast time stage and you're booking. Ive become switched on to it now, so I can notice it. But I bring it up to illustrate how easily the bolt will cycle and strip a round off the mag. And then also illustrate the first time the bolt meets resistance chambering. It's the forcing that round into a horizontal attitude. Sliding the rim fully up the bolt face, pushing the tensioner aside, and fitting the rim under the extractor. I will occasionally feel this action when running the bolt. I think this CRF method could be prone to creating a bind in the bolt/ round/ chamber if the chamber and tensioner aren't tuned correctly. And this bind is what people are feeling when their having minor, light, rough feeding.
Either that or their forcing the extractor over the rim, but that really is a different feel. That is extreme and I believe you'll ruin your extractor and tensioner in short order. The bolt would be almost fully forward and it would be a really hard last-minute ca-chunk as you're muscling the bolt handle down. I think you really have to be forcing it and doing something that you know deep down you shouldn't be forcing as you're doing it.
I recommended removing your tensioner and still loading rounds out of the mag to see if the resistance went away. If it did completely its the tensioner. Of you still feel some, perhaps not as bad, its likely the chamfer on the edge of the chamber. The round is still leveraging over too sharp an angle as its forcing the rim up the rest of the bolt face.
Watch this. See that there are two parts to the roumd coming out of the mag and snapping up on to the bolt face and loading. The first part as the round seems to magically pop out of the mag and snap up onto the BF. But you can see the round is still slightly nose up. Entering the chamber. Rim is still low on the BF not completely captured by the extractor. As the shooter continues to push the bolt forward the chamber forces the round straight horizontal. Forcing the rim up under the extractor, pushing the spring loaded tensioner aside. This second part is where the tuning and relationship between the chamber and tensioner reduce the hard feeding.
Got out to buddies range..kids all about. Did get a chance to wing a few out of the Rim X. Going to try again later in afternoon for some 100yd groups. Starting to really hone in.
SK+ 5@50. (I call the flier)
SK rifle match RN 5@50
View attachment 7433643
Got out to buddies range..kids all about. Did get a chance to wing a few out of the Rim X. Going to try again later in afternoon for some 100yd groups. Starting to really hone in.
SK+ 5@50. (I call the flier)
View attachment 7433640
SK rifle match RN 5@50
View attachment 7433643
SetUp?
Agreed,Thank you in advance. This might help some so far mine GOD knows smooth as glass as well.Im going to put together another post for some tips/instructions for you guys having some feeding issues or shaving lead on feeding..
Unfortunately Center X is a little too pricey for me. I did get the bolt to close better on some Norma stuff, but still not great. Do you know if the bolt should close on the headspace gauge?
I agree with the sergeant.!Lot of good info in here.
We definitely should have said no-go gauge. We all learn a lot on the first release of products.Perfect, thank you for the reference to post #1202. I wish Zermätt had said it was a “NO-go-gauge” on the included instruction card.
I’ll try some different ammo and possibly toy with the tensioner. Thanks again!
I’ll try some different ammo and possibly toy with the tensioner. Thanks again!
CCI SV is really tight in my rim-x with PVA pre-fit. Lapua less so and Eley even less. I removed the tensioner and extractor for each and it feels the same.
I had and still have the same problem, I sent my original Keystone barreled action to Zermatt they said there was a problem with the chamber, they pulled the barrel and sent it back to Keystone, Keystone said mine was an early one and they supposedly fixed my chamber. I got it back and it still chambers and extracts rough (though better than previously), accuracy is so, so, and after 50 or so rounds a round will routinely slip the tensioner and gets stuck in the chamber. I have shot other Rim-X rifles that ran beautifully. I bought a Proof Prefit and I'm just waiting for some time to swap the barrels to see how that runs.Hello again gang,
I got my RimX barrled action from Keystone on Friday. I put her in my XLR envy pro chassis and got a triggertech diamond 2 stage to top her off. Upon putting the rifle together, I immediately started messing with the magazine adjustments to try to find optimal feeding height. I probably tinkered with this for an hour or 2, never found a spot that fed smoothly (even though mag is locking tight and is within the 1/16" vertical play). I contacted Ray at Zermatt with some videos of the action feeding, he recommended I take the tensioner out and stone .010" off the corner making contact with the case. Did this, and the rifle is deffinately feeding smoother, but still has a very hard bolt close. Thankfully, he offered to send me another tensioner that he has stoned to see if that helps.He also suggested to me that Keystone barrels have a very tight chamber, and that they wont feed butter smooth. This is my first match grade custom rifle, so I dont have much to compare to. However, my CZ 457 feeds and cycles significantly smoother than my RimX ATM. I'm wondering if the folks on here with Keystone barreled actions have any input. I know that the rifle wont be "glass" smooth right out of the gate, but it still feels a bit sticky, and like I said the bolt is very difficult to close most times. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help, folks!
Just received my RimX action with a Green Mountain barrel chambered by Keystone Accuracy and I have been having intermittent troubles chambering a round and difficult bolt closure. No troubles with feeding or extraction. I have shot about 500 rounds through it and the frequency has not changed. There does not seem to be a pattern for when the troubles arise. I have 3 magazines and have the same trouble with all of them. I have tried SK Standard Plus, Center X, & Midas+.
I am using the 10 round magazines. Have not opened the magazines to clean them. Will do that. I followed the instructions but will go back through the adjustment process again.
Padom, how would you 'fix' that if that's the case? Magazine height adjustment?
Padom, how would you 'fix' that if that's the case? Magazine height adjustment?