NEW From Zermatt Arms - RimX Actions

[padom]

You'd think with the concept of the fixed headspace that the chamber wouldn't be required to push the rim back against the bolt face for ignition.

My exact thoughts. How can the chamfer cause ignition issues when the round is held against the bolt face? I thought this was the whole thing about this new design and why traditional headspace didn't matter?

I have just as much chamfer as in those pics above and I have never had an ignition issue...


Zermatt headspace from their print is like 0.0465-0.052.... thats way thicker than the rims of the SK/CX we are shooting....so without a chamfer, the rim still wouldn't be pressed against the breach face and held firmly by the bolt face recess........

This new design, the way it was explained to me, was that the tensioner holds the rim against the bolt face 100% of the time for consistent ignition round after round, no matter the rim thickness....how does the chamber or chamfer effect ignition in any way with this action then???

 

[melglass]

Leaves a small round belt on the case

What do you mean with this?

Case has expanded somewhat into the radius machined into the barrel. Nothing extreme just can tell its there.

 

[melglass]

With people now reloading rimfire I was thinking 22lr belted mag would be coming down the road. I’m just a step ahead this time. Lol

 

[TeebirdsRoc]

My exact thoughts. How can the chamfer cause ignition issues when the round is held against the bolt face? I thought this was the whole thing about this new design and why traditional headspace didn't matter?

I have just as much chamfer as in those pics above and I have never had an ignition issue...


Zermatt headspace from their print is like 0.0465-0.052.... thats way thicker than the rims of the SK/CX we are shooting....so without a chamfer, the rim still wouldn't be pressed against the breach face and held firmly by the bolt face recess........

This new design, the way it was explained to me, was that the tensioner holds the rim against the bolt face 100% of the time for consistent ignition round after round, no matter the rim thickness....how does the chamber or chamfer effect ignition in any way with this action then???

Yea, I dont know, I'm just going on what John told me. I do know that I had no ignition issues before the modification to the chamber, that was with 2 different tensioners.

 

[jbell]

It kinda makes sense that the extra champer could be causing the light strikes with a rimfire. You really need very positive support under the rim for proper ignition.

 

[padom]

It kinda makes sense that the extra champer could be causing the light strikes with a rimfire. You really need very positive support under the rim for proper ignition.

On a typical rimfire we have all been used to for so many years you are correct. This is why we also headspaced our rimfires to match our ammo (rim thickness) so the round was held firmly against the breach face on the front side and bolt face on the back side for consistent ignition.

This is not the case with a RimX. It's an entirely new design that does not work that way. The round is held 100% of the time against the bolt face via the tensioner and fixed extractor to achieve consistent ignition round after round from how Zermatt explained it to me...

 

[jbell]

On a typical rimfire we have all been used to for so many years you are correct. This is why we also headspaced our rimfires to match our ammo (rim thickness) so the round was held firmly against the breach face on the front side and bolt face on the back side for consistent ignition.

This is not the case with a RimX. It's an entirely new design that does not work that way. The round is held 100% of the time against the bolt face via the tensioner and fixed extractor to achieve consistent ignition round after round from how Zermatt explained it to me...

I get that. However if there isn't enough support under the rim the case the rim can either move slightly forward off the bolt face or the case can slightly deform into the chamfer at the point of firing pin contact which "absorbs" some of the force from the firing pin. It's the same concept of holding an action in your hand and trying to drive a tight trigger pin out with a punch vs having the action laying on a bench. It doesn't matter how firmly you hold the punch against the trigger pin when the hammer hits the punch the action is going to move even if it's ever so slightly and will require a harder swing of the hammer to move the pin vs if the action is prevented from moving when it is on a bench you will not have to swing the hammer as hard to move the pin.

In this design with a 6 o'clock firing pin it is even more exaggerated than if it were a conventional 12 o'clock firing pin because the case is being held on the opposite side of the firing pin.

 

[padom]

I get that. However if there isn't enough support under the rim the case the rim can either move slightly forward off the bolt face or the case can slightly deform into the chamfer at the point of firing pin contact which "absorbs" some of the force from the firing pin. It's the same concept of holding an action in your hand and trying to drive a tight trigger pin out with a punch vs having the action laying on a bench. It doesn't matter how firmly you hold the punch against the trigger pin when the hammer hits the punch the action is going to move even if it's ever so slightly and will require a harder swing of the hammer to move the pin vs if the action is prevented from moving when it is on a bench you will not have to swing the hammer as hard to move the pin.

In this design with a 6 o'clock firing pin it is even more exaggerated than if it were a conventional 12 o'clock firing pin because the case is being held on the opposite side of the firing pin.

But that still doesn't make sense. There is still a gap between the front of the rim and the breach face on a RimX even if there is NO chamfer....example, a CX round has rim thickness of .043"...... the minimum headspace for a RimX per Zermatt print, which I don't know any tenons being cut that short is .0465" headspace. I know Keystone is cutting there .002" over min (.0485") so thats a .005" gap between the rim and the breach face (with no chamfer at all)..... just sayin.

The RimX is not like your typical 22lr....the rim is never supported by the breach face...its not possible....the tensioner would stick out too far and not allow you to close the bolt if the headspace matched rim thickness, sandwhicing the rim tight against the breach face.. By design, the fixed extractor/tensioner supports the rim 100% of the time.

I would be leaning toward a trigger issue than the chamfer for those having ignition issues. I do know Keystone just got a RimX barreled action back from a customer having ignition issues every 3-4 firings.... they put a BixN Andy on it right after opening the box and had zero ignition issues firing 3 different kinds of ammo from crap to Tenex....we are all using chamfers on our RimX barrels. Its a key part in proper feeding, I dont know of any widespread ignition issues. I think we would all be having ignition issues if the chamfer was the cause

 

[jbell]

But that still doesn't make sense. There is still a gap between the front of the rim and the breach face on a RimX even if there is NO chamfer....example, a CX round has rim thickness of .043"...... the minimum headspace for a RimX per Zermatt print, which I don't know any tenons being cut that short is .0465" headspace. I know Keystone is cutting there .002" over min (.0485") so thats a .005" gap between the rim and the breach face (with no chamfer at all)..... just sayin.

The RimX is not like your typical 22lr....the rim is never supported by the breach face...its not possible....the tensioner would stick out too far and not allow you to close the bolt if the headspace matched rim thickness, sandwhicing the rim tight against the breach face.. By design, the fixed extractor/tensioner supports the rim 100% of the time.

Hmm, I see your point. Interesting... So in theory you should be able to remove the barrel and still have 100% ignition? In my mind the breech face is still acting like an anvil after the firing pin crushes the case enough to take up that gap. Which makes me question at what point in that sequence does ignition take place? Is it delayed vs a conventional rimfire design? Meaning longer lock time? The situation that Melglass is describing is what has be really thinking about this.

I'm just talking out loud kinda spilling out my initial thoughts. I'm probably way off...

 

[padom]

Hmm, I see your point. Interesting... So in theory you should be able to remove the barrel and still have 100% ignition? In my mind the breech face is still acting like an anvil after the firing pin crushes the case enough to take up that gap. Which makes me question at what point in that sequence does ignition take place? Is it delayed vs a conventional rimfire design? Meaning longer lock time? The situation that Melglass is describing is what has be really thinking about this.

I'm just talking out loud kinda spilling out my initial thoughts. I'm probably way off...

No, I dont think it would work with no barrel on because the round doesnt fully lock up behind the fixed extractor and tensioner until the brass case of the round enters the chamber. I just made a very ugly, quick video to show this. When your round is full slid up the bolt face, 100% supported/locked in place behind the fixed extractor and tensioner, AND part of the brass case has entered the chamber, you cannot physically move the case or separate the 6 oclock rim from the bolt face. At least I wasnt able to.

Ray can speak to this more and your specific questions on when ignition takes place, etc. but this is how it was explained to me by Zermatt before the action was released and I questioned the new design and conventional headspace not mattering like many other long time 22LR shooters, smiths, etc. So far for me, it has proven to work exactly like it was described to me and Ive yet to have any issues in 5 soon to be 6 barrels EXCEPT for the very first barrel discovering a chamfer was required for proper feeding. That was before pretty much anyone had a RimX. At that point I think myself and Orkan were the only ones, other than Zermatt guys and prototype actions. Since that chamfer and polish was added, feeding is like butter 6000+ rounds to date now.

 

[jbell]

I'm tracking, I would be interested in time of ignition from the point the sear disengages.

 

[padom]

I'm tracking, I would be interested in time of ignition from the point the sear disengages.

Maybe Ray @Zermatt Arms can let us know that..

 

[parshal]

....example, a CX round has rim thickness of .043"...... the minimum headspace for a RimX per Zermatt print, which I don't know any tenons being cut that short is .0465" headspace. I know Keystone is cutting there .002" over min (.0485") so thats a .005" gap between the rim and the breach face (with no chamfer at all)..... just sayin.

Just for more information on this. I cut my tenon to exactly 1.6855" as the print defines. The encountered resistance when closing with or without the tensioner and extractor. I cut in .0005" increments until it closed. It ended up being 1.6835".

 

[padom]

Just for more information on this. I cut my tenon to exactly 1.6855" as the print defines. The encountered resistance when closing with or without the tensioner and extractor. I cut in .0005" increments until it closed. It ended up being 1.6835".

Zermatt’s print states that the tenon should be 1.6855, +0.0/-0.0015 (1.6840 min).... mine are 1.6845 without issue

 

[parshal]

Exactly. What I'm saying is that the max length was too long for my action.

 

[padom]

Exactly. What I'm saying is that the max length was too long for my action.

Yep, I would agree

 

[Kisssofdeath]

You'll have to get a small base die to reload those

I have to admit, that was funny.

 

[drglock]

I took my bolt completely apart to do a complete clean and to see exactly how it was made. When putting it back together I thought I had screwed the firing pin back to where the two set screws were in the correct spot( first screw lined up with divot in the firing pin) two days later me and my buddy went out to do some barricade practice. First shot did not go off, I use Center X and have never had this problem before. Almost ever shot would not go off and I knew I had not put it back together incorrectly. When we got to my buddies house we took the bolt back apart and using his magnifying glass with light we could tell I was just off on the rotation getting it lined back up. From then on zero problems. Even though it wouldn’t fire unless I hit each round twice it was still putting pretty good indentions in the rims. So getting to my point, is that it could be that the firing pin protrusion could be slightly short and or along with case head support.

 

[Baracuda22]

I add 30 more shots on my bolt that came with #25 action,I used sk plus on PR CF Bull barrel on my hunting setup.I dont have any trouble on my shooting so far in chamber/ejection super smooth operator,feels like room temperature 100% butter then spread over on a hot butter smooth croissant.This complete action #25 combo continue to "NEVER CEASE TO AMAZE ME".Hope this continue like this headache free.

 

[jbell]

I add 30 more shots on my bolt that came with #25 action,I used sk plus on PR CF Bull barrel on my hunting setup.I dont have any trouble on my shooting so far in chamber/ejection super smooth operator,feels like room temperature 100% butter then spread over on a hot butter smooth croissant.This complete action #25 combo continue to "NEVER CEASE TO AMAZE ME".Hope this continue like this headache free.

Damn man, now I'm hungry...

 

[high right]

Just got my RimX from Keystone. 20" Bartlein, A-5 stock Jewell trigger, 3 mags.
Same as a lot of others, Hard chambering, shaving brass off cases. I E-mailed Zermatt about another tensioner. Chamber is tight.
SK, Eley, and CenterX. I'm going to have my Smith deal with it as I really don't want to have to send it back. Disappointed this hasn't been addressed before shipped.
I'm sure I'll get it squared away but shouldn't have to dick with it out of the gate. I'm not selling my Vudoo just yet!
Maybe it's the Harris Bipod I'm running on it.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Wow. What's worse is Keystone should have found these issues first. But you are right, you shouldn't have to dick with it right out of the gate. Are you going to give Keystone a call Monday and see what they will do?

How many people have bought a Rim-X from Keystone or had them fit one up and had issues?

 

[high right]

Wow. What's worse is Keystone should have found these issues first. But you are right, you shouldn't have to dick with it right out of the gate. Are you going to give Keystone a call Monday and see what they will do?

How many people have bought a Rim-X from Keystone or had them fit one up and had issues?

No. I'm not. I actually had one of the prototypes for testing for awhile. Alot of the early issues were delt with. I jumped on the Keystone group buy on a whim. I like a lot of the features, mostly the lack of ejector cuts. Being able to switch barrels easily.
I have a "guy" who has done work for Anschutz, does most of my centerfire stuff. He did my Vudoo barrel and chamber. He'll fix it, and he's local. Time will tell

 

[melglass]

Wow. What's worse is Keystone should have found these issues first. But you are right, you shouldn't have to dick with it right out of the gate. Are you going to give Keystone a call Monday and see what they will do?

How many people have bought a Rim-X from Keystone or had them fit one up and had issues?

I could be wrong but I don’t think the work he did is at fault on mine. He was the middle man on the action and machined the barrel. His work looks excellent.

 

[OSU Fisher]

Got my 2 twin rimx's put together this mornin.
Keystone GM 20"
TT diamond
Krg bravo
Athlon ares ETR
Hawkins rings

Haven't got a chance to shoot them yet. Adjusted the mags and played with how they fed etc. They both are shaving a ton of brass on the bottom of the chamber no matter how I have things adjusted. Only used center x at this point. Everything else seems ok. I hope I don't have to do a bunch of work to them as that's not what I'm into or have a ton of experience in. Time will tell.

After playing with it a little more it seems to like a "normal" speed of running the bolt. Like you would at the range, field, etc. If I run it slow trying to diagnose problems, tune it etc it shaves more brass and has a harder time feeding/chambering. I really just need to get out and shoot and see how things settle in. Maybe towards the end of the week. Will report back

 

[Hunting2019]

It is possible your mag is dropping slightly in the front. Thus, your round is tilted down going into the fixed extractor and tensioner and not being fully captured as it goes into the chamber.
A possible fix with the KRG Bravo is they have a mag well adjustment, all be it trial and error, remove the barreled action lay that aside. Before making any adjustments insert mag in mag well. Pull it back down into the stop, pull down on the front and see if it comes down. If so, remove mag and loosen the top front trigger guard screw. Then push the trigger guard forward holding it while tightening. Re-insert mag and check to see if the front will pull down any. Just be sure while tightening you don't tighten it to much to where the mag won't drop. Just tighten it to where you won't have play in the front and it will still drop freely. Hope that makes sense and helps !
I think some good bottom metal might help us all. HINT

 

[OSU Fisher]

It is possible your mag is dropping slightly in the front. Thus, your round is tilted down going into the fixed extractor and tensioner and not being fully captured as it goes into the chamber.
A possible fix with the KRG Bravo is they have a mag well adjustment, all be it trial and error, remove the barreled action lay that aside. Before making any adjustments insert mag in mag well. Pull it back down into the stop, pull down on the front and see if it comes down. If so, remove mag and loosen the top front trigger guard screw. Then push the trigger guard forward holding it while tightening. Re-insert mag and check to see if the front will pull down any. Just be sure while tightening you don't tighten it to much to where the mag won't drop. Just tighten it to where you won't have play in the front and it will still drop freely. Hope that makes sense and helps !
I think some good bottom metal might help us all. HINT

Really appreciate the helpful info! I will give it a shot. I did not know about that. These are my first bravos.

 

[melglass]

It is possible your mag is dropping slightly in the front. Thus, your round is tilted down going into the fixed extractor and tensioner and not being fully captured as it goes into the chamber.
A possible fix with the KRG Bravo is they have a mag well adjustment, all be it trial and error, remove the barreled action lay that aside. Before making any adjustments insert mag in mag well. Pull it back down into the stop, pull down on the front and see if it comes down. If so, remove mag and loosen the top front trigger guard screw. Then push the trigger guard forward holding it while tightening. Re-insert mag and check to see if the front will pull down any. Just be sure while tightening you don't tighten it to much to where the mag won't drop. Just tighten it to where you won't have play in the front and it will still drop freely. Hope that makes sense and helps !
I think some good bottom metal might help us all. HINT

This is what I have planned to do to try to help mine out. Was kind of thinking it would help out. Don’t think it would hurt.

 

[ntrinsik]

I've only shot SK Standard Plus and SK Rifle Match, but haven't had any issues with feeding from my RimX barreled action from Keystone after I tuned the mags.. here's hoping it stays that way. Roughly 200 rounds on it now, 120ish from a match.

 

[parshal]

I just spent considerable time re-tuning the mags. Out of ~120 shots I had two that failed to come up behind the tensioner, one with each mag. I'm not sure which way to move it (up or down) with low failure rate. I cleaned gunk out from behind the extractor and tensioner so we'll see if that was it.

 

[Baracuda22]

I just have my problem bolt back from zermatt,still getting some HICCUPS email ray about it follow his instruction adjust mags height then i found the spot that works on the bolt but still weak options. This is what happen now after emails back and forth etc etc. TRY TO CHAMBER ROUNDS FROM MAGAZINE THEN REMOVE MAGAZINE CHECK IF THE SHELL CONTACT THE EJECTOR. IT WORKS VERY VERY WEAK THE SHELL JUST EJECT FROM EJECTOR THEN DROP BELOW THE MAGAZINE CUT WITHOUT THE MAGAZINE.EXTRACTION/CHAMBER HAS A FEW PROBLEM NOW 8 OUT OF 10 WORKS THEN AMMO WENT BEHIND THE EXTRACTOR/TENSIONER BUT THE BIG PROBLEM IS THAT IT WILL NOT SPENT THE SHELL OUT AND AWAY THE ACTIONS. So i try my other bolt the same set up WOW WORKS FLAWLESS THE SHELL EJECT ON THE SIDE OF THE ACTION SPENT SHELL OUT ON THE SIDE AWAY AND YOU CAN FELL THE SHELL EJECT FROM THE SIDE OF THE ACTION.
I email ray Again that this is going of this problematic bolt,any body can chime in if zermatt and me miss something wrong(VERY VERY WEAK EJECTIONS OF SHELL AND SOMETIMES THE AMMO WENT BEHIND THE EXTRACTOR/TENSIONER 8 OUT OF 10 WORKS BUT THE REST IS NOT)this bolt was send to zermatt and i have it 2 days to date only from repairs.Thanks in advance

 

[melglass]

I have given up on mine till I get some time to make some phone calls. Between the bad feeding,lite strikes and cases about to blow out I will just shoot one of the non problem guns that actually made it fun to go to the range.

 

[scotty2hotty]

So, what’s the verdict on the Rim X ? Looks like a lot of complaints.

 

[Schütze]

So, what’s the verdict on the Rim X ? Looks like a lot of complaints.

Just buy or build one and let us know...

If you don't like it I'll buy it from you for $500 and shoot it next to mine...

Or you could read these 28 pages and make up your own "verdict"...

 

[Swaim13]

So, what’s the verdict on the Rim X ? Looks like a lot of complaints.

It depends a lot on you. If you follow the instructions, have an idea of what you are doing, and take the time to adjust everything correctly, it's a great gun. I like that I can swap barrels easily for what i am doing with it and can try new things easily.

If you dont want to/are not comfortable with tinkering or just want to buy and shoot, go with a vudoo

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Depends on what someone's definition if "tinker" is. I like to "tinker" but by choice not forced. It appears in most Rim-X builds people are forced to "tinker". A person should "tinker" because they want to not because they have to.

Anarchy Outdoors had a 10% off sale once. I put a Rim-X in the cart to see if the code would work and it did. I went to "tinker" on some guns to think if over. Even at 10% off I decided not to get one.

 

[OSU Fisher]

I think some are running fairly well but theres many with issues. Some might be user error but I know many have adjusted everything "correctly" and still having problems. If this was a walmart special then I wouldnt expect anything different. But... This is supposed to be a top tier product that is the same $ as a vudoo and should run atleast as well. Tinkering is great if you want to but like posted above it shouldn't be forced on you at this level.

 

[Schütze]

You guys seem to let out that a RimX has to be correctly build / assembled and a Vudoo can be purchased as a complete rifle.
So if you go ahead and buy a RimX and assume that you can be the gunsmith you have to take into account that there could be issues you are not able to deal with. I don't think it's fair to blame the product (Zermatt) for this. There are many members on here who shoot them thousand's of rounds without any problem. Take a look at orkan, padom and reubenski to just name a few. These guys are able to ck, diagnose and adjust head space, sear clearance, fringing pin fall, mags etc.

 

[drglock]

You guys seem to let out that a RimX has to be correctly build / assembled and a Vudoo can be purchased as a complete rifle.
So if you go ahead and buy a RimX and assume that you can be the gunsmith you have to take into account that there could be issues you are not able to deal with. I don't think it's fair to blame the product (Zermatt) for this. There are many members on here who shoot them thousand's of rounds without any problem. Take a look at orkan, padom and reubenski to just name a few. These guys are able to ck, diagnose and adjust head space, sear clearance, fringing pin fall, mags etc.

I believe that 90% of the time it’s a tensioner problem, so much so that if you now order one from Zermatt they send you a modified tensioner. I don’t think the guy that chambers your barrel and screws it on your action has anything to do with the round not feeding into the extractor.

 

[melglass]

So, what’s the verdict on the Rim X ? Looks like a lot of complaints.

I’m sure they will get it worked out for me but at this point I’m wondering if I should have just stick with my other guns. I have two B14s that I run fired cases as snap caps. I have tried my mags all the way up and down and still had feed problems. Then I picked up a handful of cases and decided to put the gun away before I damaged something because of a case failure. I’m working a lot of hours so don’t have a lot of time to spend on the phone trying to get it sorted out. Have spoken with them on the action at the beginning of the week and tried today but was not able to get Aaron. Gun is not safe in its current condition so I have a $2500 wall hanger.

 

[melglass]

Anyone else have cases that look anywhere near that. Have had enough ruptured cases in the past is 22 AR uppers figured this had to be near that. Not like you need to reuse the cases just safety concerns.

 

[melglass]

John just got back to me said that is normal for the RimX design. No problems.

 

[Travis224]

I hate to say it, someone overchampered your chamber. I did that once with a Ruger 10/22 trying to make it feed better. My cases did nearly the exact same thing. Read chamber that with a 52D reamer and be amazed at how well it shoots.

I was rather unhappy with my keystone accuracy barrel, the chamber was way too tight and accuracy was not what I was hoping for. I opened up the chamber to a 52D reamer, and that will now out shoot both of my proof research barrels.

I don't want to sound like I'm begging on somebody else's hard work here, and I'm definitely not. The fact that my keystone barrel would not shoot with the ammo that I have, cases of it btw, made me decide I needed to make the barrel work for me instead of try to find the ammo that will work for it. Trust me I can't be happier with that 52D reamer.

Say what anyone will about a 52D reamer, but after decade of shooting ARA matches, the 52D reamer is still one of the best all around reamers for accuracy. I could not even get CCI SV ammo to chamber in that keystone barrel.

But your issue is barrel related, not action related.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

You guys seem to let out that a RimX has to be correctly build / assembled and a Vudoo can be purchased as a complete rifle.
So if you go ahead and buy a RimX and assume that you can be the gunsmith you have to take into account that there could be issues you are not able to deal with. I don't think it's fair to blame the product (Zermatt) for this. There are many members on here who shoot them thousand's of rounds without any problem. Take a look at orkan, padom and reubenski to just name a few. These guys are able to ck, diagnose and adjust head space, sear clearance, fringing pin fall, mags etc.

I don't own either so I'm not "and can't/not qualified" to make comparisons. But I am interested in both and want to see what the outcome is with the Rim-X.

 

[high right]

I

I hate to say it, someone overchampered your chamber. I did that once with a Ruger 10/22 trying to make it feed better. My cases did nearly the exact same thing. Read chamber that with a 52D reamer and be amazed at how well it shoots.

I was rather unhappy with my keystone accuracy barrel, the chamber was way too tight and accuracy was not what I was hoping for. I opened up the chamber to a 52D reamer, and that will now out shoot both of my proof research barrels.

I don't want to sound like I'm begging on somebody else's hard work here, and I'm definitely not. The fact that my keystone barrel would not shoot with the ammo that I have, cases of it btw, made me decide I needed to make the barrel work for me instead of try to find the ammo that will work for it. Trust me I can't be happier with that 52D reamer.

Say what anyone will about a 52D reamer, but after decade of shooting ARA matches, the 52D reamer is still one of the best all around reamers for accuracy. I could not even get CCI SV ammo to chamber in that keystone barrel.

But your issue is barrel related, not action related.

I agree! Got mine from Keystone and very difficult to chamber rounds of various makes. I have a Vudoo with a 52D reamer that shooting fantastic. My smith will probably end up rechambering it for me Monday. Also fix the tensioner, play with the mags some more. I love to tinker, but like to shoot more! This shouldn't be the issue it is.

 

[OSU Fisher]

I'm heading out to shoot as we speak. Put the first rounds through my 2 rimx/GM keystone builds. Will report back. I believe I have the mags/chassis (bravo) adjusted as well as I can. I will only be shooting center x today. See how it goes.

 

[melglass]

I'm heading out to shoot as we speak. Put the first rounds through my 2 rimx/GM keystone builds. Will report back. I believe I have the mags/chassis (bravo) adjusted as well as I can. I will only be shooting center x today. See how it goes.

You should be good. I have had a good run with guns in the last few years. Think it was just my time to get a problem child.

 

[melglass]

I just spent an hour adjusting my mags in .01 increments and trying to get them to feed. 2.245 inch from the bottom of the mag worked best in my Bravo. Found out that running the mag all the way up damages the round below it. See a mod that I think may work to get it to feed better. Still can’t get past 80% or so. Think if you knock the square corner of the tensioner that protrudes into the bolt face off it would allow the rim to go up easier.

 

[scotty2hotty]

I hate to say it, someone overchampered your chamber. I did that once with a Ruger 10/22 trying to make it feed better. My cases did nearly the exact same thing. Read chamber that with a 52D reamer and be amazed at how well it shoots.

I was rather unhappy with my keystone accuracy barrel, the chamber was way too tight and accuracy was not what I was hoping for. I opened up the chamber to a 52D reamer, and that will now out shoot both of my proof research barrels.

I don't want to sound like I'm begging on somebody else's hard work here, and I'm definitely not. The fact that my keystone barrel would not shoot with the ammo that I have, cases of it btw, made me decide I needed to make the barrel work for me instead of try to find the ammo that will work for it. Trust me I can't be happier with that 52D reamer.

Say what anyone will about a 52D reamer, but after decade of shooting ARA matches, the 52D reamer is still one of the best all around reamers for accuracy. I could not even get CCI SV ammo to chamber in that keystone barrel.

But your issue is barrel related, not action related.

How do you get and use a 52D reamer or do you have to have a smith do it?

 

[Travis224]

One option is to rent one. 4D reamers is one place. Otherwise, my buddy is also my gunsmith and I did it in his shop.