There was a significant POI shift on my RPR .308 when I had my Magnetospeed attached to the barrel. So, I jury-rigged a rail mounted to the hand guard to mount the Magnetospped and it's been working pretty well (though it's NOT pretty).
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There was a significant POI shift on my RPR .308 when I had my Magnetospeed attached to the barrel. So, I jury-rigged a rail mounted to the hand guard to mount the Magnetospped and it's been working pretty well (though it's NOT pretty).
For the most part I DO agree. But I've had occasions where I wanted to do some experiments and wanted to collect chrono data along with POI. For load development, it's surely not necessary.
I could understand if you were limited with your rounds, say you loaded 10 rounds to test grouping for various loads. That’s one thing so I see your point.
I would chrono every shot I fire if I had a labradar. Unfortunately thats a hurdle the MSv3 doesnt feasibly permit. Accumulating more data can only be useful.
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I had to share that one with the guys over on the black powder forum. The last of the muskets were made some 150 years ago. Not counting the replicas for the folks that like antiques.
Modern black powder fueled RIFLES have barrels with match grade rifling that will match or exceed most off the shelf smokeless ones.
The only real differences is the smoke and rate of fire.
But I will answer your question, "no", the statement was to let you know that I "do not" own a modern rifle with a barrel LONGER than 26", so I was unable to answer the question about barrels over 26" flexing. My 26" 308 does not flex, any. However, it is a heavy barrel designed for long range with a nice slow twist. I do not know anyone who has installed a 26" or longer barrel on an RPR of any caliber, although it has probably been done.
As for your aggressive, defensive, vulgar and highly unusual behavior on a forum normally filled with fun, informed and happy sportsmen, well, I guess there always has to one in the crowd.
Let's get back to our normally scheduled, informative and enlightening forum without the profanity or aggressive stance, it contributes nothing constructive.
Unique idea. I was told by a friend that MAGNETOSPEED had one available as well, but was very pricey for something that gets used so little.
I just load an extra 5 rounds of each load I am testing, shoot those sets, record the data. Then I go back through and shoot the other 15 of each loading for accuracy. (3 x 5 shot groups) On rifles with thin barrels, I see a POI shift, and almost no shift on the rifles with heavy barrels (.9 or more) at the muzzle. If I remember correctly, I was getting a little over an inch POI shift on the 6.5 CM RPR with a 24" factory barrel. The group was consistent, just shifted.
I can see why. There have been rare weather events where I wanted to check loads under extreme temperatures with a cold bore. I hunt, sometimes at longer distance on small game, and that can be critical on first shots. At the range, after the first shot, I have to wait for true cold bore again before taking the POI shot.
Actually, Magnetospeed does not have anything that keeps it from being mounted onto a barrel. They do have an adapter to mount on a picatinny rail (like off a pistol or a rifle with a hand guard with rail that goes almost thee full length of a barrel). There is an aftermarket product (very pricey) using jointed shafts so as to not mount on the barrel. I just didn't really like the design. So, I created this rail to use the Magnetospeed adapter.
I was getting more than 1 MOA shift on my .308 RPR (20" factory barrel). And like you my groupings were good and consistent . . . just shifted.
With a 42mm obj you could go low for sure. Incidentally, getting the objective as close to the bore has no bearing on accuracy. Get the ring height that allows you the best and most comfortable cheek weld as well as eye relief.
Thanks TD. In creating a shopping list for the up-coming SWFA Tax-Day sale, I wanted to make sure I got a set of rings in case the low rings I currently have did not work. I may pick up a medium set anyway, if for no other reason than comfort.
I run mediums with a 50mm and aadmount caps on a full length rail with room to spare.
Nice. I have an SWFA SS 20x42 mounted with a one piece Warne mount. This scope is awesome quality. Love it. I’m sure you will too
What's killing me is waiting till the SWFA sale to get my glass. My budget was small anyway, and the RPR consumed most all of it...
Same here. After buying the RPR I just didn’t have the dough to spend as much on my glass as I did on my rifle. I believe an SWFA to be the best possible way to spend the money I did have. I planned on a Nightforce eventually but I like this one so much I’ll probably never bother.
Just picked up suppressor for the RPR and need to remove original muzzle brake on the Gen II rifle. However, it appears Ruger has overtorqued the hell out of it when first putting it on as it has not budged after applying a healthy amount of torque.
I am aware the brake and nut are two different parts, but so far nothing seems to move. Am I just going to have to use a bigger cheater bar or are there any words of wisdom you all can offer?
I am assuming, as you stand in front of rifle, that turning clockwise will tighten brake and turning counter-clockwise will remove it. Correct?
I am aware the brake and nut are two different parts, but so far nothing seems to move. Am I just going to have to use a bigger cheater bar or are there any words of wisdom you all can offer?
I am assuming, as you stand in front of rifle, that turning clockwise will tighten brake and turning counter-clockwise will remove it. Correct?
^ Yes counter clockwise. I have a gen 1 but have removed the brake from a gen 2. Don’t worry about the nut. Put the barrel in a vise. Just put a long screw driver through the brake. That should do it for most. I had to take a hammer to the handle of the screw driver and that popped it off. I don’t know why they torque them so tight.
I used an electric paint peeler heater (looks like a hair dryer but gets really hot), Quickly heat the brake but not the barrel, the metal will expand slightly. With a punch inserted through the brake and an end wrench on the nut, apply some torque and counter torque to it. Add a few taps with a 4# hammer and mine broke loose. Yeah, those babies are TIGHT!
Put your wrench on the nut and turn to TIGHTEN it while simultaneously use a screwdriver or punch through the brake and turn to loosen it. They have to be broken apart pretty much. Mine was fairly easy with that technique. No hammer or cheater pipe involved.
Have now been to the range with the spring removed from the trigger on my RPR. Twenty rounds to zero new scope with last five shot group measuring about 5/8 t0 3/4 of an inch [four shots touching] Second range trip on Monday and a liitle dry fire to acclimate to the triger I shot a four shot group that punched the center out of the target and can be covered with a dime. Who needs a Timmy! The blade of the trigger is the first stage, then an almost imperceptible movement of the trigger [second stage] then it breaks with a little over travel. This is not a match grade trigger to some but it has made all the difference to me. Well worth the effort before you spend the money for a trigger that might not perform any better.
I agree with your assessment. It's NOT a "match grade trigger", but I also found it is well worth the effort. I get 12-14 oz of pull to get it to break and it improved my results right from the start. Of course, not everybody will like the blade or like the particular feel or even like to have that light of a trigger pull. After 2,200 rounds on my .308 with this trigger mod, no issues and no complaints when I can get consistent groups like this at 100 yds with my handloads:
From yesterday
^ Very nice. I’m at 2,465 rounds with my .308 and am still seeing 1/2 moa accuracy. First rifle I never bothered to touch the trigger. I adjusted it a bit lighter. However, that was a couple weeks ago and we’ve had snow dumped on us ever since. Gotta get out there. In the past month I’ve only been once at 600 to test my camera system. 1000 opens next month!
Great shooting straightshooter. Are you shooting factory ammo? My best groups have been with FGM 168 gr, SMK. Have some of the same on order in 175 gr. Have shot Hornady BTHP in 175 gr. that shoot to same POA but not as tight as the Federal 168's. Sig Elte OTM 168 gr. are close behind.
Anyone shooting PMC Bronze 147 gr. with any success? What a waste in my rifle with four to six inches vertical spread. Who buys cheap ammo for a precision rifle? Duh! I am still learning basic fundamentals and have less than 300 rds thru the rifle.
My best groups have been with a mono pod, but am often not as stable as a bag, I cannot easily find my POA with bags without a lot of muniplalation that slows me douwn shot to shot. Using Caldwell shot bags filled with corncob media to different fullness and a couple of homemade bags. What bags do you suggest and what fill material?
^ I shoot from multiple different surface types so I use squeeze bags that’ll accommodate that with synthetic fill in case they get damp. I was using a monopod but went back to a bag cause I’m more accurate with one and get back on target faster
No, I typically shoot my precision hand loads (as per my above above). I did start out with my RPR using factory ammo (FGMM 168s and 175s) that was giving me 3/4 MOAs and sometimes a little better. I started handloading and reused my Federal brass with the intent of trying to get down to 1/2 MOA or better and have been able to do that and now consistently getting between .35 - .5 MOAs. I don't really expect better than that from a factory barrel.
My 168 SMKs reloads do really well and so far I find to have been more consistent with tighter groups than I've been able to do with 175 SMk's. But, if one is going to go out to 1000yds, 168 SMKs are not going to get the job done.
As far as the factory FGMM's, they have done OK . . . . this from early last year :
When I first got my RPR last year I too ran some PMC Bronze through to see how the cheap ammo compared to the likes of FGMM. Like you, the groups I got were awful. That's wen I decided that only match grade ammo was worth using in the likes of a precision rifle. I did keep the 1X fired brass and have precision hand loaded a few of the PMC brass like I do to my Lapua and Federal brass and they have produced comparable groupings. So, it's not much to do with the brass as it is the the quality of loading them.
I filled my bags with rice and I feel it works extremely well for stability and dampening for a front bag and it makes for easy manipulation. And I found it worked best when being sure not to over fill the bags.
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Thanks for the detailed information. I failed to mention that I am using a bipod and have only shot from a bench [picnic table]. Believe I will try rice in my bags before I jump for a $60.00 + bag. i could have bought a commercial bag and had money left over for more ammo!
Thanks DannC
Thanks DannC
^ I actually just recently started to listen to the podcasts. Both Frank and Dillhole (sounds like a radio show off the bat) are very knowledgeable, and it’s just a bonus when you can get some new info regarding your specific rifle
My factory Ruger swung the hostage target 3 times on command at 1125 in 10 mph winds.
This past weekend I finally finished all the episodes so I’m pumped to hear #35 even more now!
Wow! That’s some damn good shooting. Congrats!
Wow! That’s some damn good shooting. Congrats!
Just got my RPR in 6.5 and zero’d it @100. Very nice! I plan to shoot Prime ammo and was wondering what folks are seeing for real world velocities (I dont have a chrono yet). Understand it can vary from the box specs. Thanks for any insight!
The velocity you get from your gun is just that. YOUR GUN. Just a few things that can change the velocity are barometric pressure, temperature friction coefficient of the barrel, length of the barrel, twist rate, temperature of the barrel after firing a few shots, etc......
I would be greatly surprised if your actual velocity matched the label on the box, there are just so many things that can effect it.
Enjoy the new rifle, I have really enjoyed both of mine!
Griz
I would be greatly surprised if your actual velocity matched the label on the box, there are just so many things that can effect it.
Enjoy the new rifle, I have really enjoyed both of mine!
Griz
I’ve yet to get an answer from anyone on Prime with their 6.5. I got an even 2900 which is quite a bit higher than the box. SD of about 17 but this was within the first 20 rounds through the rifle.
Listened to the Everyday Sniper episode. Now I’m curious, what scope did you have on your RPR out there? You decided not to say on the podcast, are you still pleading the 5th? Haha
It’s a decent scope for the price but really showed it’s weakness out there with the mirage. beyond 1k the targets were very blurry and I ran out of parallax.
I was in central Texas. It was a about a month or so ago so it was probably in the 70s, 80 at most. Can 10-20 degrees change it that much?
I almost went with that scope for my 6.5 but took a chance on Athlon Cronus BTR. I was shooting at 1000 this past Saturday and it was in the 80s. The mirage was definitely making it tough but I’ve never looked at that distance with a higher end scope so I don’t have anything to compare to.
I looked through some s&b’s and NF’s and had no issue. I’m gonna probably rebarrel my RPR to 308 and leave that scope on it. Build up a different 6.5
Frank is all about those S&Bs. Would love to top a rifle with one of those. Good to know, thanks!
Does better glass really do better with mirage? I thought it was more a function of power vs temperatures....
Someone can correct me if I’m wrong because I’m by no means an expert but from my understanding of you have better glass then it handles mirage better. This is why, when you’re looking at 1000 or more yards and you have two scopes, one good quality and one not so much, the good quality glass is giving you great sight picture where as the other one is already fuzzy and poor quality sight picture. Now introduce mirage....while I don’t think the glass will do anything to rid the mirage, the quality glass puts you at an advantage already because you already have a decent picture where as the poor quality glass gives you a crappy picture plus mirage so then you’re really struggling.
the glass is all the same these days (it only comes from like 3 different sources), its the coatings that differentiate the optics. the higher end scopes cant eliminate or make mirage disappear bu they can still allow clarity in the optic even under the worse conditions. Beyond 1000 i could barely see my targets even in low mirage conditions and like i said, i also ran out of parallax.
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