Easy to just press in the new race. The challenge was how to get the old race out with limited access to the back of it.
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Maggie’s The Welding and Metalworking Thread
- Thread starter bogeybrown
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These are for that.
Simple job, 15 seconds if it's really tight.
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I have those axle bearing pullers. There was nothing to grab against behind the bearing race that I removed, thus the alternate method of removing it without cutting it out.These are for that.
Simple job, 15 seconds if it's really tight.
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A zig zag pattern shrinks them even moreEver need to get a press fit bearing race out of a blind hole? On this NV4500 input bearing race, I fired up the TIG machine at 140 amps and just arced a 360 degree line around the inside of the race. After it cooled and shrank, it practically fell out. I probably could have gotten more shrinkage if I ran filler metal. It measured .002-.003" smaller than the new race I was putting in.
I don't say this often enough I'm told, but I've even impressed myself with this
I’m looking to buy a surface grinder. Don’t need a huge one, but want a quality one. Budget is $10,000. What would the collective mind recommend?
I have a Brown and Sharpe micro master 618. It gets the job done. I got lucky and found this machine really well taken care of and very little run time. With a Hienhann dro and spent less than $5k. I would like to find a good used Blohm, even decent used ones are still $100k. The Chevalier grinders are supposed to be nice and can get into the semi automatic range for $10k. I have not personally run one.
I would love to have one but my farm shop welding projects just cant justify the expense. Sure would make fab nice with squeeky clean metal.
I’m tired of buying precision stuff that’s not flat. Instead of sending it back 5 times, I can just do my own stuff, plus it might provide a good revenue stream too.
Having two uncles who are Metrologists has fucked me up for life.
My new exhaust project from a few weeks ago. All the onion now.
Beautiful work.. Did you weld it yourself and if so provide details.My new exhaust project from a few weeks ago. All the onion now.
Good exaust work just warms my soul. The quality, and pride in the work is amazing. My students always say c's get degrees. I tell them A's will get you paid. Very nice work sir.
Winona Van Norman
They were bought out by Hein Werner (IIRC) awhile back, but made stellar machines.
If you can find an old one you found a top of the line mofo and most people don't even know of them.
Used to deck heads with one back in the day and I, to this day. have never seen a higher quality surface than that old machine would do.
That looks amazing.My new exhaust project from a few weeks ago. All the onion now.
Suburban Tool has a great deal of videos on surface grinding
We have a B&S 618 it's a nice old machine
We also have a few chevalier grinders at the school. We have a small completely manual one that nobody uses we have a couple with power feed in both axis's that most of the students use all the time.
Condition is key on used machines especially a surface grinder that need to hold tenths and need to be parallel and perpendicular.
Don't forget the extra tooling for grinders can be very expensive add a few angle plates and spin index and you could be looking at several thousand dollars that you might get included with a used grinder.
Yes, and thank you. This is my shop at home, and the car is a 2004 GTO bought new in 2005.
Particulars:
Kooks Headers, 3" stainless (304) tubing. Borla XR-1 mufflers and resonators. Purged and welded on my little Lincoln 225.
Engine:
421 cubes
GM LSX block
Callies Ultra Billet crank
Callies UB rods
Diamond slugs
Brodix BR7 heads Prepped by McCabe Motorsports (GO Robby!)
Cam from Schneider race cams
Whipple 3.0L blower
10 rib serp drive I made at work
Moroso crankcase vac pump
Crower LS7 shaft mount rockers
Morel high rpm hydraulic lifters
Freon/water intercooler/chiller setup I made at work
Injector Dynamics 2600cc squirters (E85 fed)
Holley Dominator ECU was set up as a piggy-backed unit so I can still run factory gauges and cabin controls.
Extreme automatics manual valve body 4L80 trans with trans brake
G Force 1 piece driveshaft conversion
Circle D converter
Circle D billet flexplate
Strange 9" 3rd member, 3.55 gears
G Force Engineering Outlaw axles and shafts, 5/8" studs
Wilwood brakes
AFCO coil overs
Tubbed rear quarters to fit 305-wide MT SS rubber
Control arms modified for wider tires and converted for coilover shocks
G Force Toe Rods
Performance:
It's a handful. I'm not sure what it makes for power, as this setup has never been on a dyno. With slicks, the car has gone 6.40@109 in the 8th mile. That converts to somewhere around a low 9-second quarter. It's more of a Friday night troublemaker than anything, as we've also added a track-only car to the lineup.
This is a 2nd gear smash at around 35mph. -Underpasses are heavenly gifts to gear queers, lol.
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Finally got the last of my dies in for my JD2 bender and calibrated them with Bend Tech software. Decided to do a little project today to test the calibration. Firewood rack built with 1.5" 13 ga metal tubing and the bends were spot on per the software. Stretchers notched and tig welded. Just need to add some 3" round plate as feet and paint it.
I am especially proud of this one. This reshaped far better than I thought. We figured the stamping was probably the last before they got out the new dies. The door pannel is still to tall but that fix will be easy while skinning in comparison.
My bro took the measurements and the owner had a backer machined out
Lots and lots of pounding. My forearms were on fire but it matches the car now.
I figured it would work, but I didn't think it would go so well. Hopefully the driver side shapes as easy.
My bro took the measurements and the owner had a backer machined out
Lots and lots of pounding. My forearms were on fire but it matches the car now.
I figured it would work, but I didn't think it would go so well. Hopefully the driver side shapes as easy.
BTW, Imma going to put this project on the back burner...
Sirhr
Sirhr
10k will buy you anything on the planet! We’ll mostly.
What are you looking to use it for? They come in all sizes and the small ones are nice!!!
Sirhr
Lapel pin project coming along after long hiatus. Made three more “prototypes” and gave them to some folks who supported a fellowship I am spearheading.
This one is to keeps. Ruby turned on lathe with diamond cutter. German silver head. And a tiny Diamond for a primer. More pix
Tomorrow. Will get a tiny ivory “card wad” end with shot size scrimshawed on it .
Sirhr
Spent part of this past weekend making replacement sliders for my 4Runner to replace the ones that were torn up on my recent trip to the San Juan's. Main tube 2" 11ga. DOM with the other being 1.75" .095 DOM tubing. Next step is to fabricate frame attachment and powder coat.
I'd paint rather than powder coat - touch up is easier and can be done with a paintbrush. Hammerite goes on easy, and seems very durable on my sliders, 3 years later - unlike the powder coated bumper..
One thing for sure about sliders is they will get dinged up, and the finish will get damaged.
One thing for sure about sliders is they will get dinged up, and the finish will get damaged.
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It’s what I use for TIG welding if I don’t have any S6.Tell me more about this 70s-3.
I get it from Harris Welco
Have you ever used it?
That’s a new style inverter machine correct?
I have never ran one of the inverter machines.
Been running my Syncrowave since I bought it new back in ‘87 if my memory serves me right.
Maybe a case of I don’t know what I am missing?
Nothing particularly special compared to what you blokes have put up in here. I busted my back while still serving and it’s kicked my arse particularly hard over the past 18 months so I made the hard call that I wouldn’t be squatting or deadlifting much anymore (neck disc replacement is looming) so I built a few things to help me keep training without the pressure on my neck. Built a belt squat, hack squat, cable machine, farmers walk handles, leg curl/leg extension bench, choad chair, a chest supported row bench specific for central/lower trap work to keep me going, and upgraded the sled. Self taught and will be learning how to use a Tig over the next few weeks.
The Bendtech software has slider templates that have a kicker but decided to go with the straight rail. The outer rail acts as a step but to some extent as a kicker because it extends beyond the outside of the rear tire and terminates just in front of it. Next pair I build will include a kicker. Plan on trading it in for a new TRD Pro within the next 6-9 months so decided to bolt to the frame rather welding it.
Put myself through college as a welder but it was all stick and Oxy/acetylene back then. Self taught on TIG and since you plan on doing the same I would highly recommend watching Jody's videos on Welding Tips and Tricks as well as the WelderSkills site. Some excellent TIG welders like Roy Crumrine, Brad Goodman, Andrew Cardin as well as Jody and others. Plan on spending lots of hours practicing and best of luck.
It's an inverter machine made in Austria. Pretty amazing machine with lots of features and really shines on AL and thin material. The Syncrowaves are bombproof but the inverter machines have a lot more versatility.
This is probably as good a place as any to ask.
Got a small floor jack, Craftsman made in China, nothing heavy duty.
Carried it in the cruiser to avoid having to use the manufacturer supplied scissor style jacks on tire changes.
It served well through a half dozen tire changes but now bleeds down and won't hold pressure.
Any fixes?
Got a small floor jack, Craftsman made in China, nothing heavy duty.
Carried it in the cruiser to avoid having to use the manufacturer supplied scissor style jacks on tire changes.
It served well through a half dozen tire changes but now bleeds down and won't hold pressure.
Any fixes?
Well I'll be. Been welding professionally for ten years and that's the first I've heard of 70s-3. It's just s2 or s6 for us for plain Jane carbon. We did have some 70s-2+ one time from a German manufacturer, boehler I believe. It ran way better than regular 70s-2, which I rate just one step above coat hanger wire. You really do learn something new everyday.
Looks as though you've got the basics of welding down pretty good, you should pick up tig pretty fast. I didn't know anything about welding pipe but I've made repairs and fabbed stuff around the house all through my childhood with stick and an old lincoln ac225 cracker box. When I decided to break out on pipe I picked up tig in a week and passed my pipe test.
Main thing is just coordination between your wire feeder and your welding hand. In my line of work you have to be able to weld with both hands, and I can weld almost as good left handed as I can right, sometimes better. Problem is, my right hand doesn't like feeding wire. Left hand can find a bevel on a piece of 36" with my hood down and feed wire like a machine. Right hand ? Yeah not so much lol.
Toss it and get another one. I've been through a couple of the old craftsman floor jacks. My last one crapped out a while back and lowes was running a sale on them. 3 ton jack, two jack stands and a creeper for $99. Hard to beat that.
Could always try to rebuild with cups and o-rings, if you could source them.. might be easier/cleaner/safer (if shafts are worn) to just replace with a new jack.
Just finished this up for a microbrew for their display.
- Nov 3, 2010
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Utter boredom, empty helium tank, and a plasma torch. New porch lantern for halloween. Ugly and scary like it should be
Love it, have a torch and some expired tanks, going to steal your idea for holloween
- Nov 3, 2010
- 9,702
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Thank you, not my ideer. Seen them at a flea market in Ohio a few weeks ago. Figured I could make them over spending what they wanted for one.
Make sure you soak any tanks that had flammable gas in them!
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