This one does more than you could ever want......unreal programming
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Maggie’s The Welding and Metalworking Thread
- Thread starter bogeybrown
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Except it says it won't work on my phone. Not updated in 4 years.This one does more than you could ever want......unreal programming
Handyman Calculator - Apps on Google Play
DIY Construction Calculator, Material Estimator. Reduce Waste, Save Time & Moneyplay.google.com
Yep FSWizard for the win they routinely update and improve.
I just found one thanks to the post that looks like it might be good. I SUCK with phones it is just called handyman calculator and it is green. I just downloaded it so I have nothing to say about it yet, but it looks like it could be good. Something to play with today.
Something that may be helpful is the Tap Drill and Thread Height Chart from Harvey Tool. I use it frequently as it is easily readable and has the theoretical % of thread engagement.
Tap Drill & Thread Height Chart - Harvey Tool / tap-drill-amp-thread-height-chart-harvey-tool.pdf / PDF4PRO
Thread Major Threads per Tap Drill Tap Tap Drill Theoretical % Size Diameter Inch (TPI) Range Drill Decimal of Thread J 0.2770 73.8% K 0.2810 65.5%
pdf4pro.com
And the threaded hole clearance chart
Chart_ClearanceHoleDrillSizes.pdf
Firewood rack for a custom home friend is building for a client. 12'x5'x2' made with 14 ga 2" square tubing, 1.5" 9F expanded metal with U-trim. Should hold nearly a cord.
I like the U trim. I have never used it. Much cleaner way to attach expanded metal. What is it?
It's 18ga bent to a U 1" in width and provides a nice way to attach and finish expanded metal edges. Not carried by many metal suppliers and bought it online. Most expensive material in the project.
This needs to be seen by y'all.
Those Russkies can get pretty damn creative at times.....but this is on another level.
Might give some of you some ideas and it's a short so it won't take but a minute or two of your precious time
Those Russkies can get pretty damn creative at times.....but this is on another level.
Might give some of you some ideas and it's a short so it won't take but a minute or two of your precious time
For annealing aluminum, heat it, then rub it with a piece of wood. When the wood makes a mark, it's annealed.
The "culture" has change. We are now in a RTF Country. Just look around.
Run-To-Failure (RTF) Maintenance Explained
Run to failure maintenance is a strategy where there is no maintenance plan beyond complete replacement upon asset or component failure.
upkeep.com
So, one of the kids got over-zealous and over-tightened the blade tension to 'shaft-snapping' levels?
Or did they "help" the saw by pushing down on the head end?
Not sure. It wasn't working right so we started investigationg. Saw the tension was low so started adding it and it never went up. Cracked it open and peices started falling out. And the more we looked the worse it got.
My guess is a student had an issue of some sort and tried to sort it out on their own and made it worse.
My guess is a student had an issue of some sort and tried to sort it out on their own and made it worse.
The kids will buck it, but I think they will like it in the long run
I don't like that AT ALL. I could hear the snap coming I tell you.
We have a cell phone policy on the jobsite in which only those authorized by the superintendent are allowed to carry phones otherwise they are left in their vehicles. Safety requirement but has also has helped productivity since the phones are such a distraction. Lots of the young guys griped but were told you could find another job to work if you don't abide by the rule. Pet peeve of mine.
Great job.
I don't let my guys listen to their earbuds, but unless there's a problem with someone using their phone too much, I dont restrict it
Last job, I let my guys wear a single earbud, but not both. They seemed to appreciate and understand the rule. Never had a problem, anyway.
That’s pretty cool!
Pyrex (it was cheap and safe trainer material for newbies).
Few years ago I made a 1/2” endmill from a piece of Pyrex, then glued it upright into a little led ice cube. Made a cool little illuminated light.
That’s what I do. Beats the shit out listening to 5 different radios at the same time.
Talking about ear buds.....Just so you know many hearing aids will bluetooth to your phone as well. You can take calls on them and yes listen to music.
There are two things I will bring up however, I doubt you would have issues with anyone old enough to have to wear hearing aids, and when I am around loud things I take the things out pretty quickly.
Until I got them I had no idea how loud the world is. My wife would disagree but not hearing is pretty nice.
On a side note they can help greatly with the eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee sound that is in my ears all the time.
There are two things I will bring up however, I doubt you would have issues with anyone old enough to have to wear hearing aids, and when I am around loud things I take the things out pretty quickly.
Until I got them I had no idea how loud the world is. My wife would disagree but not hearing is pretty nice.
On a side note they can help greatly with the eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee sound that is in my ears all the time.
I wear ear buds while machining. Mainly because of my absolute hatred of compressed air. Hurts my ears so bad. But I am noticing that even with noise canceling on so I can keep the volume lower my ringing in the ears is getting worse. I’m wondering if the buds are making it increase.
I do over the ear, that and mowing. When I shoot it is in the ear I guess you would say.
I tried different "in the ear" type protection when working on stuff and I just don't like it.
Shooting I totally hate over the ear, I can't get my face comfortable on the rifle, and it just flowed over to hand guns. I know some folk that do both on the louder things.
It "cancels" noise by playing more sound in a way that will destructively interfere with the other sound.
My mom got my dad the otto noise barriers and he loves them he wears them all the time. Had my little family birthday shindig at his house and he put them in help with the noise from 7 adults, 5 kids, 4 dogs, and the TV. He uses them in the goose pit and they help him hear the birds. Went on a hog hunt and he could here the racoons fart at 60 yards.
Guys, I'm coming to the crew for some recommendations.
I need a 10.3mm drill. I will be drilling a good number of holes into 6061-t6, 1.5" square tubing, 0.125" wall thickness. Holes will be through two opposing walls. I was looking for a drill that has a short flute (less than 1.250") and 10.3mm shank so that when I cut through the first hole the shank passes into the top hole and can help guide for the second cut to help reduce the risk of a triangle hole on the bottom side. All of my 10.3 drills are way longer and the flutes are sharp enough to cut the top hole if the drill walks or chatters, which is a no-go.
Any recommendations on this? I could run a spot drill into the top hole and spot the lower one, but that wastes time, so I would prefer to not do that. I will be spotting the top hole unless you guys have a recommendation on a drill that doesn't require it. I really just want to G81 that thing in and out, I'm looking at 4,200 holes so time is of the essence.
Figured some of you here would know better than a tooling rep that just wants to sell what they have.
I need a 10.3mm drill. I will be drilling a good number of holes into 6061-t6, 1.5" square tubing, 0.125" wall thickness. Holes will be through two opposing walls. I was looking for a drill that has a short flute (less than 1.250") and 10.3mm shank so that when I cut through the first hole the shank passes into the top hole and can help guide for the second cut to help reduce the risk of a triangle hole on the bottom side. All of my 10.3 drills are way longer and the flutes are sharp enough to cut the top hole if the drill walks or chatters, which is a no-go.
Any recommendations on this? I could run a spot drill into the top hole and spot the lower one, but that wastes time, so I would prefer to not do that. I will be spotting the top hole unless you guys have a recommendation on a drill that doesn't require it. I really just want to G81 that thing in and out, I'm looking at 4,200 holes so time is of the essence.
Figured some of you here would know better than a tooling rep that just wants to sell what they have.
Easy Peezy. If the hole tolerances allow it, I could cut off a 10.3 to make it a short flute length and then re-point it.
If speed and precision is of the essence, then a carbide drill is the answer. And would be less too de-burr.
Send me a PM if I can help out.
Was given a box of old end mills and found this in the bottom of the box.
Best I’ve been able to find suggests this is from the ‘30s. Copyright date says 1924…
It’s in very good condition for something pushing 90yrs old…..
Best I’ve been able to find suggests this is from the ‘30s. Copyright date says 1924…
It’s in very good condition for something pushing 90yrs old…..
This is what I was thinking too, but just checking with the crew if there was a better option out there. Makinchips option is good as well. All of my current 10.3 drills were for deep holes in stainless. Good drills, but not applicable to this job.
My boy is a Freshman and taking welding. Made this house out of some scrap.
You can get a carbide with thru coolant and reduced shank if thats your thing. However for the price, you can buy 20 HSS drills, which will work fine in alu.
Only other way if its even viable is a slugger drill.
Never seen a 10mm one, but for bulk hole drilling, or going through RHS tube, these things work great, and holes line up well and are on size.
I do remember something about a drill which had a interchangable centre drill in it, sort of like a counterbore drill, but had a changeable insert for centring... sort of like this:
There are a number of ways to make the hole.
A 3/8 endmill with a reduced neck could interpolate the first hole, zip down and do the same to the lower hole. Precise but slower.
A custom cutter can drill through, then interpolate and chamfer both sides. Great for mass production, more difficult to program.
It can be drilled (several different methods) and then follow by running a BURRAWAY from cogsdill. Amazing tool! I don’t like deburring 4000 holes by hand.
With a GOOD point that doesn’t walk, you don’t need a spot drill in many cases, especially in aluminum. In that case utilizing the shank as a pilot is unnecessary.
A proper drill point will cut a clean hole without walking. It’s ALL IN THE DRILL POINT.
And eliminate runout. Runout is dumb.
Example of burraway tool.
Y’all I have horror stories about this job. Customer contracted with some engineering outfit and sent it to India to build. Quantity came back with triangled holes, raw aluminum mated in joints which of course are galled, parts nowhere near matching the models, just a disaster. But it’s a doable project. It really is a lesson for one of my newbs on how very few engineers calculate factors that get in the way of that theoretical perfect fit.
@lariat
A double margin drill is another option.
If only using flood coolant, then coolant can more readily get down inside for the second hole.
An example.
Rip the hole with something like that, then,
Follow with the burraway if it matters.
A double margin drill is another option.
If only using flood coolant, then coolant can more readily get down inside for the second hole.
An example.
Rip the hole with something like that, then,
Follow with the burraway if it matters.
You can get drills with twist on changable tips. The shank is marginally smaller than your tip which you buy, and they will centre themselves and work REAL well, but are expensive. But for 2000+ holes, work it into the price of the job.
With thru coolant and on alloy, they are stupid fast. Spin em and push em.
Edit: iscar and kennametal do them.
I have used these before on some big tubing jobs. Forgot about them. I’ll see if either company has them in 10.3. I have changed some of my standby reliable endmill models for kennametal and that high initial price got cheap when I looked at how long it lasted.
Don't know how good it actually works but this looks interesting
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The @flexmig is dialed for those impossible areas👌🏼 You only have 2 choices when it comes to this exact weld, have a poor torch angle with a bad weld or lift the entire body up to reach it.. the Flexmig was the easy choice💥 #mig #everlast #weldporn #
The @flexmig is dialed for those impossible areas👌🏼 You only have 2 choices when it comes to this exact weld, have a poor torch angle with a bad weld or lift the entire body up to reach it.. the...
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