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Tikka T3 Thread

Hello,

New to the forum. I have a question for anyone that has a Tikka Battue rifle:
I purchased one a few years back and just noticed that the front sight appears slightly “twisted” in the dovetail. I’m assuming this was done to sight the rifle in as the rear sights have no windage adjustment. Has anyone noticed this on their battue’s?

This rifle also seems to foul with copper quite quicly (30 06). I’m hoping this goes away over time.
 
Hey there,

have an issue with my Tikka and maybe some of you hava an Idea how to solve it.

My CTR sits in a MDT Field Stock, and runs a MDT AiCS 5rds Metal Mag without binder plate.

I use the rifle for hunting and for Sport shooting.

In my last hunt, while stalking and carrying thr rifle on my back, I lost the magazine 2 times, because the mag release latch was hit by my jacket while moving around.

The mag falls off easily when you push the button, nice thing during competition, not that nice while on a hunting trip.

Any idea how to make that mag release a bit tighter / stiffer?
 
Only a few things to check or modify.

Check the mag catch tab on the magazine is bent out enough for the top of the mag latch to index correctly. (Unlikely to be this)

Too much play front to rear in the magazine inlet.

Spring on the mag catch isn't strong enough (MDT may have options for a stronger spring)

Mag release catch is too long (Likely on that stock. You can shorten the length of it so it's less likely to get bumped on everything, MDT may have an option again if you reach out to them)
 
Hey there,

have an issue with my Tikka and maybe some of you hava an Idea how to solve it.

My CTR sits in a MDT Field Stock, and runs a MDT AiCS 5rds Metal Mag without binder plate.

I use the rifle for hunting and for Sport shooting.

In my last hunt, while stalking and carrying thr rifle on my back, I lost the magazine 2 times, because the mag release latch was hit by my jacket while moving around.

The mag falls off easily when you push the button, nice thing during competition, not that nice while on a hunting trip.

Any idea how to make that mag release a bit tighter / stiffer?
@MDT_OFFICIAL any help?
 
Hey there,

have an issue with my Tikka and maybe some of you hava an Idea how to solve it.

My CTR sits in a MDT Field Stock, and runs a MDT AiCS 5rds Metal Mag without binder plate.

I use the rifle for hunting and for Sport shooting.

In my last hunt, while stalking and carrying thr rifle on my back, I lost the magazine 2 times, because the mag release latch was hit by my jacket while moving around.

The mag falls off easily when you push the button, nice thing during competition, not that nice while on a hunting trip.

Any idea how to make that mag release a bit tighter / stiffer?
Unfortunetly, there is no additional way to tighten up the mag latch on the field stock. But I will make sure to pass it on to our team to take a look at and see if there is something we may be able to look at in the future.

-Paige
 
Unfortunetly, there is no additional way to tighten up the mag latch on the field stock. But I will make sure to pass it on to our team to take a look at and see if there is something we may be able to look at in the future.

-Paige
Thank you for your reply.

I knew there could be a catch with the Field Stock compared to the XRS.. due to price. For sure it is obvious that at this pricepoint there cannot be everything perfect.

But I didn't expect to los my mag with this stock. But I will have a closer look to the build of the mechanism by myself, and maybe I will find a solution. If not, maybe your team will and I would be glad to hear of you.

Maybe your could 3D Design another latch, for example like the one on the Atlasworks AICS Bottom Metal, with hidden buttons, and users could 3D Print the solution by themself.
 
IMG_6174.jpeg


Finally got the CTR in a stock. I got the trg mag version as I like them better than most acis pattern mags at 10 rounds.
 
Thank you for your reply.

I knew there could be a catch with the Field Stock compared to the XRS.. due to price. For sure it is obvious that at this pricepoint there cannot be everything perfect.

But I didn't expect to los my mag with this stock. But I will have a closer look to the build of the mechanism by myself, and maybe I will find a solution. If not, maybe your team will and I would be glad to hear of you.

Maybe your could 3D Design another latch, for example like the one on the Atlasworks AICS Bottom Metal, with hidden buttons, and users could 3D Print the solution by themself.
You're welcome, and I will make sure to pass it on to our team!

-Paige
 
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Have a Look at German Gun Stock Reaper Hunt Stock
My Reaper and Ranger with CTR bottom metal inlets. I swap my rifles and stocks like legos. I use the CTR inlet bottom metal for AICS mags from Mountain Tactical for my 223 and 6.5 PRC in both stocks. I added the ARCA rail to the Reaper and the SRS ARCA/Picatinny rail to the Ranger.


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My Reaper and Ranger with CTR bottom metal inlets. I swap my rifles and stocks like legos. I use the CTR inlet bottom metal for AICS mags from Mountain Tactical for my 223 and 6.5 PRC in both stocks. I added the ARCA rail to the Reaper and the SRS ARCA/Picatinny rail to the Ranger.


View attachment 8516316View attachment 8516317View attachment 8516318View attachment 8516319View attachment 8516320View attachment 8516321View attachment 8516322
Those are two very sexy rifles 🥰
 
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Guys, i need your help. There are 2 versions of the KRG Bravo. One for the CTR, one for AICS mags.

Can i make the AICS version work for CTR mags aswell? Or will the CTR version work with AICS mags aswell? It says in the description that the chassis takes T3, T3x and CTR rifles. I am a bit confused about the mag issue. Right now it seems the better idea to get the CTR mag version if that works with standard AICS mags aswell. Judging from the description this works?

Cheers

Daniel
 
Guys, i need your help. There are 2 versions of the KRG Bravo. One for the CTR, one for AICS mags.

Can i make the AICS version work for CTR mags aswell? Or will the CTR version work with AICS mags aswell? It says in the description that the chassis takes T3, T3x and CTR rifles. I am a bit confused about the mag issue. Right now it seems the better idea to get the CTR mag version if that works with standard AICS mags aswell. Judging from the description this works?

Cheers

Daniel
I don’t think they are interchangeable. I own a CTR Bravo…lemme check.

CTR into an AICS W3, no-go.

AICS into a Bravo CTR, clicks in. But I cannot now get the mag out lol

The things I do for this site 🤦‍♂️
 
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Guys, i need your help. There are 2 versions of the KRG Bravo. One for the CTR, one for AICS mags.

Can i make the AICS version work for CTR mags aswell? Or will the CTR version work with AICS mags aswell? It says in the description that the chassis takes T3, T3x and CTR rifles. I am a bit confused about the mag issue. Right now it seems the better idea to get the CTR mag version if that works with standard AICS mags aswell. Judging from the description this works?

Cheers

Daniel
Not interchangeable. If you’re already invested into AICS pattern got hat route, if not, maybe go CTR they are good magazines.
 
I don’t think they are interchangeable. I own a CTR Bravo…lemme check.

CTR into an AICS, no-go.

AICS into a CTR, clicks in. But I cannot now get the mag out lol

The things I do for this site 🤦‍♂️
Never fear, I took the action out of the chassis and loosened the trigger guard screw and the mag popped out.

Must admit I got a tiny bit sweaty thinking about what I’d do if it didn’t 🤬
 
Never fear, I took the action out of the chassis and loosened the trigger guard screw and the mag popped out.

Must admit I got a tiny bit sweaty thinking about what I’d do if it didn’t 🤬
Thank god you got it solved.

Do you think i could put a CTR in the chassis built for AICS mags and use those? It says so in the description as far as i understand? No more experimenting though please😋
 
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Thank god you got it solved.

Do you think i could put a CTR in the chassis built for AICS mags and use those? It says so in the description as far as i understand? No more experimenting though please😋
Yeah, I tried that. See first post. Didn’t work, mag was too long. Didn’t bother trying to adjust trigger guard to attempt a fit.

But yeah, there’s a reason KRG makes two version…was kinda fun trying anyway though.
 
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Yeah, I tried that. See first post. Didn’t work, mag was too long. Didn’t bother trying to adjust trigger guard to attempt a fit.

But yeah, there’s a reason KRG makes two version…was kinda fun trying anyway though.
I meant a CTR rifle in an AICS Bravo using AICS mags. You put an AICS in an CTR Bravo. It says so in the description. Anyways, i will stick with an AICS Bravo and AICS mags and a T3x. Seems to be the safest option😅
 
I meant a CTR rifle in an AICS Bravo using AICS mags. You put an AICS in an CTR Bravo. It says so in the description. Anyways, i will stick with an AICS Bravo and AICS mags and a T3x. Seems to be the safest option😅
Yes. You will be fine. All t3x actions are the same whether it is a lite, ctr, varmint, super varmint, or tac a1. Only change is left hand vs right hand. Ctr mags will only work with the cartridges that fit in it. Same with the aics.
 
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You can put any T3X model into either chassis. The only difference is which magazines they will work with. I went the AICS route so that mine uses the same magazines as my other rifles. Some prefer the CTR magazines because they are shorter.
 
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I just got a keg bravo in CTR bottom meter version and just tried my mdt 10 round mags. They fit a touch loose but feed great both left loose or jammed into a bag. So glad I got the CTR version. This is gonna make going dasher or BR in the future so much easier.
 
Anecdotally, it appears that older T3 models are harder to spin off.



Before someone chimes in with the “too-deep pic rail screw” idea for the above barrels, the front base screw on Tikkas isn't on top of the threads.

It appears there is some truth to the “Effing Tight Tikka” myth.

Also, some personal experience in this matter (do check out the above links). I might as well come out and say it. Maybe it’ll help others in the future.

This horror story also just happened to me on my first ever barrel removal attempt. Happened to be a used T3. I had asked the seller why he was selling. He said, “I don’t need another project,” and in retrospect, he said it in a way that probably should’ve caused me to back away.

Maybe I had the exterior action wrench too tight, or maybe the factory barrel was threaded wrong at the factory, or maybe it was removed by an prev owner and reinstalled wrong. There was plenty of what appeared to be grease-like substance on the threads.

Maybe the prev owner used a too-long action screw? There was epoxy on the dovetail and down the threads where someone had glued down a pic rail, I imagine. Maybe some of the epoxy leaked forward into the barrel threads? Fuck if I know.

I certainly should’ve stopped once it was apparent that it wasn’t getting easier to unscrew. I had never dealt with galling before.

I used decent equipment. Short Action Customs Modular gun vise. Brownells exterior action wrench.

Sometimes you learn the hard way. My barrel is toast, and I think the action is too.

View attachment 8439456
View attachment 8439457
Look at that metal peeling off at the end of the threads.

View attachment 8439479View attachment 8439480View attachment 8439481View attachment 8439482
Obviously not attempting to screw my nice expensive prefit into THAT.

Luckily I already have a T3x Super Varmint to use for the prefit. Having a gunsmith remove its barrel. I am now literally a bit “gun-shy” lol.
@Bugholes @Terry Cross @david walter (sorry I forgot the others who have helped me) and heck, thanks @lash for laughing at my jokes lol

Ok, so an epilogue to my sob story (1, 2) about removing my very first barrel, which happened to be on a Tikka T3.

After speaking to an esteemed gunsmithy member of this site, I probably caused the issue by tightening the external action wrench far too much. I missed that tip in the Tikka barrel removal vids I watched. Ah well…no big surprise there.

He even thought the action may be salvageable by using a big Brownells tap. Might try that.

Meanwhile, I brought a different Tikka, a Super Varmint 223, into a better gunsmith than before (first guy wanted to “touch up the chamber” of the Bugholes’ barrel) and he removed the factory barrel.

I then put the Bugholes barrel on by myself with my Short Action Customs modular vise and the super-nice Bugholes Tikka action wrench.

No surprise, it shoots quite well! Probably better than the target shows, as I am still getting more comfortable shooting off a bench with a bipod.
1728435942057.png

Plus I have it in a Bravo and I don’t like the rear end of that chassis. It’s uncomfortable to me and it makes shooting harder than it should be (again, for me). I love my W3 so a Xray butt in on its way here as I wanted a lighter setup than a W3.

7AD99727-FD70-40A0-9E96-D898FB2361FB.jpeg

(Prev pic was with the factory barrel installed, d’oh!)

Oh yeah, shooting Hornady factory 40gr Superperformance Vmax, which often has an ES/SD like this, which makes the barrel look all the better:
4287A88A-6997-4FC2-BB2E-EF7129A4B7CB.jpeg
 
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@Bugholes @Terry Cross @david walter (sorry I forgot the others who have helped me) and heck, thanks @lash for laughing at my jokes lol

Ok, so an epilogue to my sob story (1, 2) about removing my very first barrel, which happened to be on a Tikka T3.

After speaking to an esteemed gunsmithy member of this site, I probably caused the issue by tightening the external action wrench far too much. I missed that tip in the Tikka barrel removal vids I watched. Ah well…no big surprise there.

He even thought the action may be salvageable by using a big Brownells tap. Might try that.

Meanwhile, I brought a different Tikka, a Super Varmint 223, into a better gunsmith than before (first guy wanted to “touch up the chamber” of the Bugholes’ barrel) and he removed the factory barrel.

I then put the Bugholes barrel on by myself with my Short Action Customs modular vise and the super-nice Bugholes Tikka action wrench.

No surprise, it shoots quite well! Probably better than the target shows, as I am still getting more comfortable shooting off a bench with a bipod.
View attachment 8520359
Plus I have it in a Bravo and I don’t like the rear end of that chassis. It’s uncomfortable to me and it makes shooting harder than it should be (again, for me). I love my W3 so a Xray butt in on its way here as I wanted a lighter setup than a W3.

View attachment 8520360
Oh yeah, shooting Hornady factory 40gr Superpreformance Vmax, which often has an ES/SD like this, which makes the barrel look all the better:
View attachment 8520375
That's a good looking rifle even if the stock doesn't suit your style or physique!

You're going to be well pleased with the BugHoles barrel and action wrench. Greg and his crew are really good at what they do.

I have a couple of Tikkas here for a stock project and if I replace the handle, I like that swept ball style.
What brand of bolt handle is that?
 
Couldn’t get the Sterk cus out of stock so went with this. It’s really nice aswell

 
How it started to where we're at today!

Tikka CTR 6.5cm rebarreled to 6CM with a 26" IBI MTU with a Jeff Borg custom 2 port Venom Brake.
KRG Bravo, then upgraded with the enclosed fore-end,
Sterk Swept bolt handle, Arken 4-16x50.

Up next will be some stippling of the grip for sweaty hands, and a splash of cerakote!

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Just pulled another factory barrel, this time a fluted 7-08. First action that caused me trouble, and made a loud bang when it released.

In fact, slightly bent the internal action wrench and I couldn’t get the wrench removed from the action. So, I put antisieze on the threads and reinstalled the barrel to 60 ft-lbs, and the wrench came free.

I’ll post a picture of my barrel pulling set up when I get home in a few days. I’m 11 for 11 with no losses, so there’s that.
 
Terry, don't you play with my emotions. If you're making a Tikka inletted Sentinal stock, I'll give you a down payment right now.
Working on a couple of DBM bottom metal.
One to fit most of the Tikka factory stocks and one for the SENTINEL.
Once the bottom metal project is finalized, we can have Manners, McM and maybe even Foundation write an inlet program for it.
 
Forgive me for my ignorance but I have a T3X 6.5 PRC. I would like to put a different caliber barrel on it. I am not really sure how the action lengths, bolt heads, etc work on the tikkas. What range of calibers can I change to with nothing other than a barrel swap?
The bolts are interchangeable also, and people would swap bolts if you wanted a different caliper from the magnum bolt face.
 
Working on a couple of DBM bottom metal.
One to fit most of the Tikka factory stocks and one for the SENTINEL.
Once the bottom metal project is finalized, we can have Manners, McM and maybe even Foundation write an inlet program for it.

You sure you don't have a tap listening in on the chip in my brain?

A few months ago when I was researching stock ideas for this rig, I tossed around the idea of getting a MACS kit or a Sentinel and trying the Chad dixon "fill er all in and dig it back out" method of re-inletting it for the Tikka. This will definitely turn out much nicer!
 
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