Yeah, she liked itThe smile on her face after the first shot says it all. I would be surprised if she doesn't claim the rifle as hers now.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Hello,
New to the forum. I have a question for anyone that has a Tikka Battue rifle:
I purchased one a few years back and just noticed that the front sight appears slightly “twisted” in the dovetail. I’m assuming this was done to sight the rifle in as the rear sights have no windage adjustment. Has anyone noticed this on their battue’s?
This rifle also seems to foul with copper quite quicly (30 06). I’m hoping this goes away over time.
New to the forum. I have a question for anyone that has a Tikka Battue rifle:
I purchased one a few years back and just noticed that the front sight appears slightly “twisted” in the dovetail. I’m assuming this was done to sight the rifle in as the rear sights have no windage adjustment. Has anyone noticed this on their battue’s?
This rifle also seems to foul with copper quite quicly (30 06). I’m hoping this goes away over time.
Hey there,
have an issue with my Tikka and maybe some of you hava an Idea how to solve it.
My CTR sits in a MDT Field Stock, and runs a MDT AiCS 5rds Metal Mag without binder plate.
I use the rifle for hunting and for Sport shooting.
In my last hunt, while stalking and carrying thr rifle on my back, I lost the magazine 2 times, because the mag release latch was hit by my jacket while moving around.
The mag falls off easily when you push the button, nice thing during competition, not that nice while on a hunting trip.
Any idea how to make that mag release a bit tighter / stiffer?
have an issue with my Tikka and maybe some of you hava an Idea how to solve it.
My CTR sits in a MDT Field Stock, and runs a MDT AiCS 5rds Metal Mag without binder plate.
I use the rifle for hunting and for Sport shooting.
In my last hunt, while stalking and carrying thr rifle on my back, I lost the magazine 2 times, because the mag release latch was hit by my jacket while moving around.
The mag falls off easily when you push the button, nice thing during competition, not that nice while on a hunting trip.
Any idea how to make that mag release a bit tighter / stiffer?
Only a few things to check or modify.
Check the mag catch tab on the magazine is bent out enough for the top of the mag latch to index correctly. (Unlikely to be this)
Too much play front to rear in the magazine inlet.
Spring on the mag catch isn't strong enough (MDT may have options for a stronger spring)
Mag release catch is too long (Likely on that stock. You can shorten the length of it so it's less likely to get bumped on everything, MDT may have an option again if you reach out to them)
Check the mag catch tab on the magazine is bent out enough for the top of the mag latch to index correctly. (Unlikely to be this)
Too much play front to rear in the magazine inlet.
Spring on the mag catch isn't strong enough (MDT may have options for a stronger spring)
Mag release catch is too long (Likely on that stock. You can shorten the length of it so it's less likely to get bumped on everything, MDT may have an option again if you reach out to them)
MDT_OFFICIAL
Official Account of Modular Driven Technologies
Supporter
Commercial Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Unfortunetly, there is no additional way to tighten up the mag latch on the field stock. But I will make sure to pass it on to our team to take a look at and see if there is something we may be able to look at in the future.
-Paige
Thank you for your reply.
I knew there could be a catch with the Field Stock compared to the XRS.. due to price. For sure it is obvious that at this pricepoint there cannot be everything perfect.
But I didn't expect to los my mag with this stock. But I will have a closer look to the build of the mechanism by myself, and maybe I will find a solution. If not, maybe your team will and I would be glad to hear of you.
Maybe your could 3D Design another latch, for example like the one on the Atlasworks AICS Bottom Metal, with hidden buttons, and users could 3D Print the solution by themself.
Finally got the CTR in a stock. I got the trg mag version as I like them better than most acis pattern mags at 10 rounds.
MDT_OFFICIAL
Official Account of Modular Driven Technologies
Supporter
Commercial Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
My Reaper and Ranger with CTR bottom metal inlets. I swap my rifles and stocks like legos. I use the CTR inlet bottom metal for AICS mags from Mountain Tactical for my 223 and 6.5 PRC in both stocks. I added the ARCA rail to the Reaper and the SRS ARCA/Picatinny rail to the Ranger.
Guys, i need your help. There are 2 versions of the KRG Bravo. One for the CTR, one for AICS mags.
Can i make the AICS version work for CTR mags aswell? Or will the CTR version work with AICS mags aswell? It says in the description that the chassis takes T3, T3x and CTR rifles. I am a bit confused about the mag issue. Right now it seems the better idea to get the CTR mag version if that works with standard AICS mags aswell. Judging from the description this works?
Cheers
Daniel
Can i make the AICS version work for CTR mags aswell? Or will the CTR version work with AICS mags aswell? It says in the description that the chassis takes T3, T3x and CTR rifles. I am a bit confused about the mag issue. Right now it seems the better idea to get the CTR mag version if that works with standard AICS mags aswell. Judging from the description this works?
Cheers
Daniel
I don’t think they are interchangeable. I own a CTR Bravo…lemme check.
CTR into an AICS W3, no-go.
AICS into a Bravo CTR, clicks in. But I cannot now get the mag out lol
The things I do for this site
Last edited:
Not interchangeable. If you’re already invested into AICS pattern got hat route, if not, maybe go CTR they are good magazines.
Never fear, I took the action out of the chassis and loosened the trigger guard screw and the mag popped out.I don’t think they are interchangeable. I own a CTR Bravo…lemme check.
CTR into an AICS, no-go.
AICS into a CTR, clicks in. But I cannot now get the mag out lol
The things I do for this site
Must admit I got a tiny bit sweaty thinking about what I’d do if it didn’t
Thank god you got it solved.Never fear, I took the action out of the chassis and loosened the trigger guard screw and the mag popped out.
Must admit I got a tiny bit sweaty thinking about what I’d do if it didn’t
Do you think i could put a CTR in the chassis built for AICS mags and use those? It says so in the description as far as i understand? No more experimenting though please
No the ctr will not work unless the chassis or stock btm is for a ctr.Thank god you got it solved.
Do you think i could put a CTR in the chassis built for AICS mags and use those? It says so in the description as far as i understand? No more experimenting though please
Yeah, I tried that. See first post. Didn’t work, mag was too long. Didn’t bother trying to adjust trigger guard to attempt a fit.Thank god you got it solved.
Do you think i could put a CTR in the chassis built for AICS mags and use those? It says so in the description as far as i understand? No more experimenting though please
But yeah, there’s a reason KRG makes two version…was kinda fun trying anyway though.
I meant a CTR rifle in an AICS Bravo using AICS mags. You put an AICS in an CTR Bravo. It says so in the description. Anyways, i will stick with an AICS Bravo and AICS mags and a T3x. Seems to be the safest option
Yes. You will be fine. All t3x actions are the same whether it is a lite, ctr, varmint, super varmint, or tac a1. Only change is left hand vs right hand. Ctr mags will only work with the cartridges that fit in it. Same with the aics.I meant a CTR rifle in an AICS Bravo using AICS mags. You put an AICS in an CTR Bravo. It says so in the description. Anyways, i will stick with an AICS Bravo and AICS mags and a T3x. Seems to be the safest option
Yes, a Tikka CTR will work in a Bravo that uses AICS magazines if you use the AICS magazines.Thank god you got it solved.
Do you think i could put a CTR in the chassis built for AICS mags and use those? It says so in the description as far as i understand? No more experimenting though please
Don't get anything else stuck but I have heard Tikkas don't care for plastic AICS mags. Is this true?Never fear, I took the action out of the chassis and loosened the trigger guard screw and the mag popped out.
Must admit I got a tiny bit sweaty thinking about what I’d do if it didn’t
No idea. I own Accurate Mag metal AICS mags.
Oh sorry, I thought you were the go to mag compatibility checking guy.
I own all AI and MDT metal but plastic mags are cheap but not so cheap I want to get one and find out it doesn't work.
Magpul? No work without modifying and weakening feed lips.
MDT poly? Work.
Yes you are right, the old original AI 223 polymere mag will not work in a T3 unless the sides of the lips are filed narrower. Bit like Magpul mags. MDT polymer work fine.
edi
I use the plastic MDT mags for my 223, but I file down the feed lips so the bolt doesn't drag on them.
Okay thanks. I only have 6.5CM's, for now... Maybe a .223 will be my next purchase.
I just got a keg bravo in CTR bottom meter version and just tried my mdt 10 round mags. They fit a touch loose but feed great both left loose or jammed into a bag. So glad I got the CTR version. This is gonna make going dasher or BR in the future so much easier.
@Bugholes @Terry Cross @david walter (sorry I forgot the others who have helped me) and heck, thanks @lash for laughing at my jokes lolAnecdotally, it appears that older T3 models are harder to spin off.
Tikka barrel Removal - not smooth as could be, now what?
Using a barrel vise and Wheeler action wrench, the first action/ barrel came apart fine. The second rifle/action was a 300 WM. T3 gun. The barrel was tight. Finally after lots of work, it came off. The threads in the end of the barrel and initial threads of the action don't look very...www.longrangehunting.com
Gunsmithing - Tikka barrel removal, what happened here?
I've heard Tikka barrels were tight but wasn't expecting this. After breaking the action free, it took considerable effort to unscrew all the way off. Anybody ever seen anything like this with Tikka? Im leaning towards something going wrong during assembly at the factory and they just muscled it...www.snipershide.com
Before someone chimes in with the “too-deep pic rail screw” idea for the above barrels, the front base screw on Tikkas isn't on top of the threads.
It appears there is some truth to the “Effing Tight Tikka” myth.
Also, some personal experience in this matter (do check out the above links). I might as well come out and say it. Maybe it’ll help others in the future.
This horror story also just happened to me on my first ever barrel removal attempt. Happened to be a used T3. I had asked the seller why he was selling. He said, “I don’t need another project,” and in retrospect, he said it in a way that probably should’ve caused me to back away.
Maybe I had the exterior action wrench too tight, or maybe the factory barrel was threaded wrong at the factory, or maybe it was removed by an prev owner and reinstalled wrong. There was plenty of what appeared to be grease-like substance on the threads.
Maybe the prev owner used a too-long action screw? There was epoxy on the dovetail and down the threads where someone had glued down a pic rail, I imagine. Maybe some of the epoxy leaked forward into the barrel threads? Fuck if I know.
I certainly should’ve stopped once it was apparent that it wasn’t getting easier to unscrew. I had never dealt with galling before.
I used decent equipment. Short Action Customs Modular gun vise. Brownells exterior action wrench.
Sometimes you learn the hard way. My barrel is toast, and I think the action is too.
View attachment 8439456
View attachment 8439457
Look at that metal peeling off at the end of the threads.
View attachment 8439479View attachment 8439480View attachment 8439481View attachment 8439482
Obviously not attempting to screw my nice expensive prefit into THAT.
Luckily I already have a T3x Super Varmint to use for the prefit. Having a gunsmith remove its barrel. I am now literally a bit “gun-shy” lol.
Ok, so an epilogue to my sob story (1, 2) about removing my very first barrel, which happened to be on a Tikka T3.
After speaking to an esteemed gunsmithy member of this site, I probably caused the issue by tightening the external action wrench far too much. I missed that tip in the Tikka barrel removal vids I watched. Ah well…no big surprise there.
He even thought the action may be salvageable by using a big Brownells tap. Might try that.
Meanwhile, I brought a different Tikka, a Super Varmint 223, into a better gunsmith than before (first guy wanted to “touch up the chamber” of the Bugholes’ barrel) and he removed the factory barrel.
I then put the Bugholes barrel on by myself with my Short Action Customs modular vise and the super-nice Bugholes Tikka action wrench.
No surprise, it shoots quite well! Probably better than the target shows, as I am still getting more comfortable shooting off a bench with a bipod.
Plus I have it in a Bravo and I don’t like the rear end of that chassis. It’s uncomfortable to me and it makes shooting harder than it should be (again, for me). I love my W3 so a Xray butt in on its way here as I wanted a lighter setup than a W3.
(Prev pic was with the factory barrel installed, d’oh!)
Oh yeah, shooting Hornady factory 40gr Superperformance Vmax, which often has an ES/SD like this, which makes the barrel look all the better:
Last edited:
That's a good looking rifle even if the stock doesn't suit your style or physique!
You're going to be well pleased with the BugHoles barrel and action wrench. Greg and his crew are really good at what they do.
I have a couple of Tikkas here for a stock project and if I replace the handle, I like that swept ball style.
What brand of bolt handle is that?
It’s the Sterk. It’s seriously the nicest handle ever. Makes my Tikka feel like my AIAT.
Sterk Shooting Tikka T3/T3x Swept Ball Handle Black SAU-T3B
Sterk Shooting Tikka T3 Swept Ball Handle Black SAU-T3B For Sale
Thanks for that. I’d all but forgotten about the Sterk swept handle.Sterk Shooting Tikka T3/T3x Swept Ball Handle Black SAU-T3B
Sterk Shooting Tikka T3 Swept Ball Handle Black SAU-T3B For Salewww.eurooptic.com
Couldn’t get the Sterk cus out of stock so went with this. It’s really nice aswell
www.anarchyoutdoors.com
Tikka T3 Threaded Bolt Handle Upgrade
Looking for an upgraded Tikka T3 Bolt Handle? Check out the Anarchy Outdoors Tikka Bolt Handle designed for optimal strength and durability. Available in Stainless Steel and Black Nitride.
www.anarchyoutdoors.com
How it started to where we're at today!
Tikka CTR 6.5cm rebarreled to 6CM with a 26" IBI MTU with a Jeff Borg custom 2 port Venom Brake.
KRG Bravo, then upgraded with the enclosed fore-end,
Sterk Swept bolt handle, Arken 4-16x50.
Up next will be some stippling of the grip for sweaty hands, and a splash of cerakote!
Tikka CTR 6.5cm rebarreled to 6CM with a 26" IBI MTU with a Jeff Borg custom 2 port Venom Brake.
KRG Bravo, then upgraded with the enclosed fore-end,
Sterk Swept bolt handle, Arken 4-16x50.
Up next will be some stippling of the grip for sweaty hands, and a splash of cerakote!
Terry, don't you play with my emotions. If you're making a Tikka inletted Sentinal stock, I'll give you a down payment right now.
Just pulled another factory barrel, this time a fluted 7-08. First action that caused me trouble, and made a loud bang when it released.
In fact, slightly bent the internal action wrench and I couldn’t get the wrench removed from the action. So, I put antisieze on the threads and reinstalled the barrel to 60 ft-lbs, and the wrench came free.
I’ll post a picture of my barrel pulling set up when I get home in a few days. I’m 11 for 11 with no losses, so there’s that.
In fact, slightly bent the internal action wrench and I couldn’t get the wrench removed from the action. So, I put antisieze on the threads and reinstalled the barrel to 60 ft-lbs, and the wrench came free.
I’ll post a picture of my barrel pulling set up when I get home in a few days. I’m 11 for 11 with no losses, so there’s that.
Working on a couple of DBM bottom metal.
One to fit most of the Tikka factory stocks and one for the SENTINEL.
Once the bottom metal project is finalized, we can have Manners, McM and maybe even Foundation write an inlet program for it.
You sure you don't have a tap listening in on the chip in my brain?
A few months ago when I was researching stock ideas for this rig, I tossed around the idea of getting a MACS kit or a Sentinel and trying the Chad dixon "fill er all in and dig it back out" method of re-inletting it for the Tikka. This will definitely turn out much nicer!
Not a great picture but I thought I would contribute a photo of my meager Tikka collection.
My first CTR originally had a 24" barrel and I really liked it. I wanted something shorter though so I bought someone's takeoff 20" barrel and installed it. I liked it so much I bought another one.
My first CTR originally had a 24" barrel and I really liked it. I wanted something shorter though so I bought someone's takeoff 20" barrel and installed it. I liked it so much I bought another one.
The MDT oryx is also a good buy. That will be my next upgrade. Looking forward to it.
ORYX Rifle Chassis
mdttac.com
